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1979 rear shock conversion kit worth it?
- Thread starter skidog
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aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
You may get quite a few opinions on this one (if you do a "search", you will see a fair amount of discussion on it).
For a street car, the first thing I'd do is flush and refill the shock oil. If you notice an improvement and there are no leaks, I'd say you're good to go.
You can use the lever shock oil from Moss or motorcycle fork oil. Some folks also seem to use 20W motor oil.
If the shocks seem "shot", you need to compare the cost of the tube-shock kit versus using good, rebuilt lever shocks.
On a personal basis, I am using tube shocks on my racer (all four wheels). They are much better at resisting heat and fade in my experience (especially the gas units). And they tend to allow the use of softer springs. I created my own "kit" to do the rears. I do not care for the Moss kit: it is heavy and puts the shock at a funny angle. Mostly, one just has to flip the lower leaf-spring clamping plate and drill an upper mounting hole. I used the same Monroe gas shocks front and rear (under $25 each, locally). There are probably very few club-racing Spridgets that use lever shocks....I haven't seen any in recent years. I have not documented the rear-shock conversion, but my front tube-shock conversion is ~HERE~. . I also ran these tube shocks on the car when it was a street/autocross car and I was quite happy with them.
On my brother's Midget, which is more of a street-cruiser, I suggested he simply drain/refill the levers: they are fine for normal street use.
I am also building a "Spridget Special" and I will retain the lever shocks on that.
One of the fellows here at BCF rebuilds lever shocks and he has an excellent reputation....he may chime in.
For a street car, the first thing I'd do is flush and refill the shock oil. If you notice an improvement and there are no leaks, I'd say you're good to go.
You can use the lever shock oil from Moss or motorcycle fork oil. Some folks also seem to use 20W motor oil.
If the shocks seem "shot", you need to compare the cost of the tube-shock kit versus using good, rebuilt lever shocks.
On a personal basis, I am using tube shocks on my racer (all four wheels). They are much better at resisting heat and fade in my experience (especially the gas units). And they tend to allow the use of softer springs. I created my own "kit" to do the rears. I do not care for the Moss kit: it is heavy and puts the shock at a funny angle. Mostly, one just has to flip the lower leaf-spring clamping plate and drill an upper mounting hole. I used the same Monroe gas shocks front and rear (under $25 each, locally). There are probably very few club-racing Spridgets that use lever shocks....I haven't seen any in recent years. I have not documented the rear-shock conversion, but my front tube-shock conversion is ~HERE~. . I also ran these tube shocks on the car when it was a street/autocross car and I was quite happy with them.
On my brother's Midget, which is more of a street-cruiser, I suggested he simply drain/refill the levers: they are fine for normal street use.
I am also building a "Spridget Special" and I will retain the lever shocks on that.
One of the fellows here at BCF rebuilds lever shocks and he has an excellent reputation....he may chime in.
aeronca65t
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Sure.
It's based on front and rear Sprite suspension but with steel tube frame and (eventually) aluminum/fabric body. It will be built in the style of an Austin Seven Brooklands TT racer...sort of like a Bugatti T35. It has tall, skinny tires and wheels (135-15) and it has a 1275 and ribcase trans mounted. I hope to start the body and work out the steering this Summer.
Here's a link to a picture of the rolling chassis:
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/aeronca65t/ccm_mech_projects/quasi--a7.jpg
It's based on front and rear Sprite suspension but with steel tube frame and (eventually) aluminum/fabric body. It will be built in the style of an Austin Seven Brooklands TT racer...sort of like a Bugatti T35. It has tall, skinny tires and wheels (135-15) and it has a 1275 and ribcase trans mounted. I hope to start the body and work out the steering this Summer.
Here's a link to a picture of the rolling chassis:
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v170/aeronca65t/ccm_mech_projects/quasi--a7.jpg
My friend made templates for the kit and bought some shocks for the conversion. I am wondering if the difference will be worth it. I am happy with my stock setup but don't have anything to compare it to, I have only driven in stock Midgets. Where do I check the rear fluid at for the stock shocks? My Midget is restored and I am running out of things to do to it I am getting itchy. I have the illness, I am going to be building an edition on the garage for "storage for my wife" soon. I believe the edition will be big enough for a work area and room for at least one more car (and storage for my wife). Her stuff not her.
Thanks for clarifying what's getting "stored"!
Worth it... wow. Personally, I not only think it isn't worth it, I think it is detrimental.
It is conceivable that an entire new suspension could be engineered that would greatly improve how a Midget handles. The effort would entail more than a few brackets and some shocks that happen to fit. There is nothing inherently inferior with lever shocks. There is nothing inherently superior with tubes. The argument that the gas shock technology performs better IS valid. Whether it is applied properly s the issue. It'll take some knowledge to find the right ones. Consideration must be given to lots of factors as tires, springs, weight alterations, and projected use. Racetrack conditions are much more predictable than day to day driving. What works racing may be dangerous on the street. BTDT.
But "worth it".... can't deny there's some fun in playing around with stuff on the car. If you're paying money for the stuff, and it doesn't dent your budget, go ahead, and please report back. I suspect there will be no improvement, and maybe some dissatisfaction, but that's from many other folks' experiences. To be fair, though, be sure your levers are in good shape. Don't do ir-reversible mods. Let us know.
Peter C. (yes, I do have an interest in shocks)
Worth it... wow. Personally, I not only think it isn't worth it, I think it is detrimental.
It is conceivable that an entire new suspension could be engineered that would greatly improve how a Midget handles. The effort would entail more than a few brackets and some shocks that happen to fit. There is nothing inherently inferior with lever shocks. There is nothing inherently superior with tubes. The argument that the gas shock technology performs better IS valid. Whether it is applied properly s the issue. It'll take some knowledge to find the right ones. Consideration must be given to lots of factors as tires, springs, weight alterations, and projected use. Racetrack conditions are much more predictable than day to day driving. What works racing may be dangerous on the street. BTDT.
But "worth it".... can't deny there's some fun in playing around with stuff on the car. If you're paying money for the stuff, and it doesn't dent your budget, go ahead, and please report back. I suspect there will be no improvement, and maybe some dissatisfaction, but that's from many other folks' experiences. To be fair, though, be sure your levers are in good shape. Don't do ir-reversible mods. Let us know.
Peter C. (yes, I do have an interest in shocks)
George Zeck
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Just went through the same dilema. I came to the conclusion, on advice from "search" - a few who bought car's with the conversion already done moved back to the lever shocks.
I am unable / unwilling to fiddle around with the modifications required. Yes, i know it's the only way I can learn, but didn't want to learn "the wrong way".
Buying the conversion kit from mini-mania was ~ $350 vs. rebuilt levers with a lifetime guarantee from Peter C above was ~ $140 delivered.
Installation was a swap out on my 64 (assume most are the same). 3 - 4 bolts (lots of dirt falling in my face). 10 - 15 minutes per side.
Same if you want to take off to refill. On the rears - its really a simple job and not too much "extra" effort to refill and if you don't like -- buy rebuilt ones form Peter.
If your'e handy and feel comfy with that level of modification.. Go for it. Saying you are -- seems as if savings would be ~ $50. If you are not -- the kit at $350 vs. $140 is a no brainer and for driving -- most on the BCF seemed to say it's all about the same to lousy. Racer's seem to like it -- extra stress ?
Use the search function to view the prior posts. We hit this hard ~ 4 - 6 weeks ago. I think you'll like the various opinions.
Good luck-
George Zeck
I am unable / unwilling to fiddle around with the modifications required. Yes, i know it's the only way I can learn, but didn't want to learn "the wrong way".
Buying the conversion kit from mini-mania was ~ $350 vs. rebuilt levers with a lifetime guarantee from Peter C above was ~ $140 delivered.
Installation was a swap out on my 64 (assume most are the same). 3 - 4 bolts (lots of dirt falling in my face). 10 - 15 minutes per side.
Same if you want to take off to refill. On the rears - its really a simple job and not too much "extra" effort to refill and if you don't like -- buy rebuilt ones form Peter.
If your'e handy and feel comfy with that level of modification.. Go for it. Saying you are -- seems as if savings would be ~ $50. If you are not -- the kit at $350 vs. $140 is a no brainer and for driving -- most on the BCF seemed to say it's all about the same to lousy. Racer's seem to like it -- extra stress ?
Use the search function to view the prior posts. We hit this hard ~ 4 - 6 weeks ago. I think you'll like the various opinions.
Good luck-
George Zeck
jollyroger
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Having been down that road many years ago. In the late 70's I installed tube type shocks on all four corners of my midget. In the end I noticed no change in handling. For me it was a waste of money. You will not find other than swing arm shocks on any of my sprites. Swing arms work better. That is just my two cents.