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TR6 1974 TR6 Engine Rebuild and/or Repair

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AltaKnight said:
2wrench....
You can see the "pick" points to lift the engine (and transmission together or seperate) on Toms pictures above, they are the 2 plates with a hole in them on the front left and right rear of the cylinder head.
If you're pulling it with the transmission attached then it will be a lot easier if you have a "tilting" device (you can see them in the on-line catalogs for Moss and TRF) to get the right angle (particularly on reinstallation)it can be done without but not easily.
Oh, and please be REAL careful as you're doing all this, that motor is not light, don't end up beneath it! make sure you're rigging gear is good and your spectators/helpers are sober.
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Need a little more info on the "tilting device" from Moss.
Can't seem to locate such. Like to see one, though.
 
2wrench said:
Need a little more info on the "tilting device" from Moss.
Can't seem to locate such. Like to see one, though.
Click to expand...

I got mine from Eastwood. It seems very substantial and actually well made - not bad for $36. Item number 46079. I like the look of the Oberg sling, but it looks to me like it would need to be higher above the engine (to work well, at least) than the threaded rod style of leveller, which was a factor for me since my garage roof isn't all that high. I could be completely wrong, and maybe the Oberg is the perfect tool for the job.

Cheers
Alistair
 
A late suggestion would be: If you intend on pulling the engine as a unit, approach it as "systems" in preparation for the task. Disconnect ALL electrical stuff first, then the mechanical links and cables. After that, hoses and hydraulic lines and mounting studs/bolts. Then finally a double check of each. Carbs off, exhaust manifold out.

It'll avoid the: "What's keeping the thing from coming... *SPROINGGG!* ...out?!? Oh..."
 
alana said:
You mean hotter cam I hope?

You might find it easier to pull the engine first, then pull the head. Especially since you are probably going to have to pull it anyway.

HF sell an engine crane for about $120 (I just got a flyer about it) that'll do the job if you don't already have one. That and a $90 engine stand and you'll at least look like a pro /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
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I have to be the "contrarian" here...Heads are notoriuosly difficult to remove. In the past I've had to use the weight of the car, and "the rope trick" to move a rusted on cylinder head.
I think removing the head, or at least getting it loose, BEFORE you pull the engine is the way to go.
Good luck Bob
 
I think Bob has given you some very important advise. If you have a working starter and battery, get the head off before you remove the motor.
 
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