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TR6 1974 TR6 clutch adjustment

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RynoBoy74tr6

RynoBoy74tr6

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Hi folks! Hope everyone has had a great summer with their vehicles.
Quick question. My clutch/plate was replaced(previous owner) 10 years ago (12000 miles).
When the clutch pedal is fully depressed, the gear is still slightly engaged.
Is there a clutch adjustment anywhere to be made?
The manual doesn't say, or I'm looking in the wrong place!
Thanks!
stan
 
Unfortunately, no direct adjustments. It is supposed to be self-adjusting, every time you release the pedal, the spring inside the slave should push the piston out until the TOB contacts the pressure plate.

But there are some common ways to 'improve' it. First thing to check is the condition of the joint between the clutch pedal and the MC pushrod. It's quite common for it to wear and so lose motion. The pin can be easily replaced, but fixing the holes in the pedal & pushrod is a bit harder. One solution might be to ream the holes oversize and use a metric bolt in place of the pin.

Another improvement is to replace the plastic line (which balloons somewhat under pressure) with Teflon. I know TSi makes these up, probably others do as well.
https://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

Yet another, more extreme approach is the replace the MC with the larger bore unit used on very early TR6. This gives a firmer pedal, but more travel at the slave.
 
Another spot to check for play is in the bushing between the clutch pedal and the pedal shaft (No. 47 in <span style="color: #FF0000"> THIS diagram </span> ). I replaced my plastic hydraulic line with the s.s. line and that helped a bit, but I discovered my pedal shaft bushing was missing entirely, and when I replaced that, the problems cleared up. Huge difference.
 
I'm going to guess "No", but I imagine it is a problem nonetheless!
 
John_Mc said:
Another spot to check for play is in the bushing between the clutch pedal and the pedal shaft (No. 47 in <span style="color: #FF0000"> THIS diagram </span> ).
Click to expand...

No. 42 in that diagram is the hose Randall mentioned replacing. Moss has original style, aftermarket, and stainless steel. I used the stainless steel. I don't know how that compares to teflon.
 
Another possibility is the dreaded clutch fork pin. If you have acceptable throw on the slave cylinder, then the fork pin might have sheared. They don't shear cleanly, so you always seem to get some movement from the throwout bearing, but not enough to fully disengage the clutch.
 
John_Mc said:
I used the stainless steel. I don't know how that compares to teflon.
Click to expand...
Same thing. The stainless is just an outer braid to protect the inner Teflon tube from abrasion and whatnot.

I thought about mentioning the dreaded broken taper pin, but it's worth checking the easy stuff first. Apparently, worn out thrust washers can cause the same problem.
 
RynoBoy74tr6 said:
Hmmmm....If the tranny fluid was low,REALLY low, would that be a cause of my symptoms?..
Click to expand...
That would depend on what the exact symptoms are. It couldn't cause the clutch to drag with the pedal fully depressed, but might make it hard to shift.

A clear test for clutch drag is to hold the pedal depressed with the car stopped and engine idling. Shift into 2nd, back to neutral, wait a beat, then try to get into reverse. If the gears grind, then the clutch (or pilot bearing) is definitely dragging.
 
I went and checked the pedal for play...It has 1 1/4" of play before encountering any resistance...Does this help indicate anything? That's with the engine off, parked in 1st gear.
 
There is an adjustable clutch rod that helps the tr6,but not if the release fork pin is shot....I bet you have a winter project to get physicked up for. Dont forget to re-bush the cross shaft too !!
MD(mad dog)
 
Yup, pretty clearly indicates a lot of lost motion in the linkage. You could try checking under the car to see if the slave pushrod is loose, but I'll bet it's mostly at the pedal/MC pivot.
 
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