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TR6 1972 TR6

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CuriousGeorge

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Hello, I am looking for advise on what to look for in a 1972 TR6 in terms of what to expect in a car selling for apx. $6,000?

POSITIVES: Car has nice paint, clean engine compartment, nice interior except for cracking vinyl dash, good tires and good top, and chrome parts and trim are good and car looks complete.

NEGATIVES: Driver side floor AND frame have been patched, and my magnet detects some body fill in a few areas down low on the sheet metal.

Thank you! (I am in the Scranton area)
 
If it runs good, sounds pretty close to what you would find for 6K.
I would try to zero in on just how much rust has been patched, check frame VERY carefully, and get as much other info as possible on clutch, trans, and other mechanical systems. It is very easy to turn a 6K car into a 10-12K car.
Include your vision of what you hope to have once the car is 'complete".
The more rust or frame concerns the lower the price will go. can you do any of the work, or will it all be sent out?
The old advice is spend as much as you can to get the best starting point possible.
Pictures will get us all commenting on what you have.
 
Weigh the cost of repairs to get the body and frame where you would want them. ADD this cost to the $6k, then shop around for that total amount and see what else you can buy.

I've found that it's always better to purchase something that doesn't need body or frame repairs. You'll find that the same amount you'd spend on the car and the price of the rust repairs, will also include nice things like a new dash top, etc. on a nother car. As long as you can afford the extra, that is.
 
Have you driven the car yet?

Is there an obvious "clunk" sound when you shift gears?
Yes? Klunks can be quite $$$ to fix.

Does the clutch feel "sticky" when you try to release
it from the floor?
Yes? "Sticky" clutches can be $$$ to repair.

Does the engine start easily when cold?
Does the engine shut down immediately when the key
is turned off.

Pull a rear or front wheel off and look at the suspension.
1/2" layer of crud over everything? Could be $$$

Check the oil pressure warm engine and driving at speed.
50+ is good 20 is real bad.

d
 
4 speed, with an overdrive. worth more. 6 grand is not to much to pay if there isn't much rust. Check rear suspension points. And all the above, pictures will allow everyone to help. If you could find a local Brittish car club, members would love to help you make a great choice.
 
the frame rust would concern me most. strength of the engine and lack of electrical problems are big PLUSES in my book.

bondo on the body, as long as its not too much, isn't a big deal to me either. if done right it can buy you time and save you money until you can do it right.

here is the grain of salt you have to take this with, my car cost me $1800 a year ago and arrived on a truck b/c it hadn't been started in months if not a year. Now she runs great, starts easily and is as reliable as a 36 year old car can be. Now I am staring on the fun things like upgrades and cosmetics. Check out my blog. I can send you some other pics showing the surface rust etc if you like.
 
Welcome to the Forum, George. I spent several days last week in Johnstown and Pittsburgh. I got out before the heavy snow starts to arrive.
 
Welcome George.
When I was in the market to buy a 6, I noticed that at the 'cheaper' end most of the cars had shown signs of poor crash damage repairs, especially to the front end, steering, suspension etc. Have a good look around the front end, engine bay etc for this. Of course, at the top end they were all beautifully restored with no further work to do, but not in my price range!
Regards
Craig
 
Just another tidbit - if the seller has maintenance records covering the car's history, that can be a big plus. If there are no records ... well, you get the picture.

And ask a disinterested "Little British Car" enthusiast in your area to take a *close* look.

Tom
 
I appreciate all the responses! Can anyone post or direct me to a picture showing excactly where to look for rust at the places on the frame as described in the VTR buyers guide: "Two particular special problem areas are where the trailing arms (for the rear suspension) and differential are attached to the frame."
 
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