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TR4/4A 1960 TR3A with tr4 motor and tranny?

gubba

Senior Member
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Hi folks..newbe here..Iam so excited to finally find a Triumph forum with so many informed people. Yippy!!!!I have a 1961 TR3A 20 year restoration car...yes still trying to get the parts I need to finish the darn thing. I need to ask a favor of the group,I need an opinion please. I have come across a 1960 TR3A with full ground up restoration "a real stunner" perfect lines, wires, and complete. The problem, or not, is that it has a TR4 engine and tranny. I would like to buy this car and I would like your thoughts on this matter. Best Regards evereyone
 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight
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If you want to drive it, it's a price you want to pay, and it isn't all rusty then I say go for it. Having a first gear syncro on a tr4 tranny is kind of handy in my opinion. (mine has a tr4 transmission and engine also).

It all depends on what you want at the end of the day. If you want to have fun with it and don't care about being the guy with the most concours points then go for it.

You wouldn't be buying a LBC anyway if you were looking at it as an intelligent investment. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
OP
gubba

gubba

Senior Member
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Thanks for the reply..as I am a newbe..what is LBC please?
 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight
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Little British Car.... Actually I slapped myself after I typed it and pressed send.

I kinda don't like the term but everyone around here seems to use it and it must have imbedded itself in my brain.

From this point onward they shall be referred to as simply British Cars.
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
Country flag
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[ QUOTE ]
...If you want to have fun with it and don't care about being the guy with the most concours points then go for it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Well if the TR4 engine has SUs then you could use a TR3 valve cover (cheap on eBay) and capillary tube temp gauge (not cheap on eBay) and it would take a real nosey person to figure out it was not a TR3 engine. I doubt that I could tell w/o examining the engine number. It would have a TR4 fan of course, but many '3s (mine included) have TR4 fans on them because they work a bit better.

An aside on LBC: ISTR that a few years back someone had some bricks from an original Standard Motors factory building that was destroyed during the war. The bricks were labeled LBC for the 'London Brick Company' though among the locals it was said that a more appropriate translation might have been "Let's Bomb Coventry".
 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight
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And the only other thing that might tip off the TR4 tranny is if it has the angly-type shift lever vs the stubby straight lever on a TR3. I have a spare transmission from a TR4 with the bent-looking lever - If I wanted to throw this in my 3 is it much of a job to change the lever ???

and for those of you playing at home:

ISTR means I Seem To Recall?

--Jim charter member of the PTSOOAUOIN. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

(project to stamp out obscure abbreviations used on the internet)
 

sammyb

Luke Skywalker
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Not a big deal at all to change the shift lever.

Pull off the carpet over your transmission tunnel, then unbolt the transmission tunnel cover (about 8 bolts, or two in mine /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif ) Unbolt the top of the transmission, and there you have it...heck, since I haven't looked at it in a while, you might be able to access the bolt for the lever without even removing the transmission top, but I don't think so.
 

Banjo

Yoda
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The lever is held in by a bolt going all the way through the pivot, and a cap. Remove the bolt, there may be another short one on the base of the cap 90 deg. off of the other one so remove that too. then the cap comes off with a twist( but beware, it's a steel cap on an aluminium trans. Sometimes they don't want to come off) and viola! the shifter is in your hand. this all sticks through the tranny tunnel and is accessed by taking the rubber boot off of the shifter.
The 62 TR3B is a 3 with a 4 motor and trans. They are desirable both for performance and rareity. They are identified by a commission# prefix of"TCF"
Like everyone else said, that's a barely noticable swap to the untrained eye. so unless you are going for a concourse car or the seller wants too much, it's really an improved driving car.
 

gsalt57tr3

Jedi Warrior
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I agree with Jim Sneddon.

If you want a driver, go for it. My '57 tr3 has a tr3a nosejob, due to an accident after such time it was easy to get a tr3 nose. Someday I might replace it. Its not that important to me.

This is the most fun car I have ever driven, and don't even want to take it near a concours (except the parking lot).

Glenn Salt
TL16434L
 

donbmw

Jedi Warrior
Silver
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I agree with every that is if you like it drive it.
I also like the LBC the wife and I refer to our 59 TR3 as SB skinning butt.
 
OP
gubba

gubba

Senior Member
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Thanks alot people for the replys. Now how much do you think fair value of this car would be?
 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight
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Quote:"Now how much do you think fair value of this car would be?"

geez... talk about opening a can of worms.

How much of a stunner is it? Is there any bondo? Have you poked around the floors and rockers and frame for rust?

Does it drive well? smoke? does the front end wobble all over the place?

Tough to say... people selling frame off restorations seem to price them with an emotional attatchment. I see all sorts of reported "fully restored" TR3's going anywhere from $10K up to $30K....

Maybe with a lot more information we could give you a better ballpark.
 

billspit

Jedi Knight
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[ QUOTE ]
Thanks alot people for the replys. Now how much do you think fair value of this car would be?

[/ QUOTE ]

OUCH! personally I feel that TR-3s are vastly overpriced. Mainly cause when i sold mine in 1986 I didn't get squat for it and now they are bringing $15,000-25,000.

Price depends on condition, but parts cars are now running $3,000-4,000. You might could use the non-original enigne and trans as a barginning tool.
 

prb51

Luke Skywalker
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This is a swag (serious wild ass guess). Home resto, frame off w/replaced nos panels. Rebuilt/fresh motor-trans-front end-steering box. New/newer brakes/clutch hydraulics. Good (no tears/sewing loss)interior - dash. All gauges work as intended. Newer tires 75%. Painted underside - no undercoat. Body/frame straight (measure center hub to center hub right and left side. Body panel fit good-gaps. Skim coat bondo ok, no serious bondo. Paint, minor scratches, one or two minor dings . Good top and sticks. 15 to 18K. I've described a very nice ready to go vehicle that would be classified a solid 3. The mis match motor would detract financially. Luck
 

Geo Hahn

Yoda
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I don't know if TR3s are overpriced but they certainly seem to sell at a premium compared to other models in like condition. You see a lot of the 15-18K cars on eBay and such but I really think a patient buyer can do much better.

Rereading your original post it appears you have the experience to ID any serious problems -- barring those perhaps a value of 10K less the cost of anything that is needed is a fair point to work to. Using the non-original engine/gearbox as a bargaining point sounds reasonable.

Good luck, If the TR is a good one you'll soon forget what you'll paid for it.
 
OP
gubba

gubba

Senior Member
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Thanks you fellas are great. I have spoken at lenth to the seller and I have gotten pictures of the restoration. This is a great looking car, no bondo, probably some skim coat, great lines, replaced floors, all new crome, new top toneau and side curtains, a very well done restoration. I have yet to test drive as the car is not completed as of yet. This will happen in about a month. This car will be about 20K CND or about 18K U.S. It still seems like a lot of money to me but Ive got the bug dang-it. I guess I can use my 61 as a parts car. It has the correct engine and tranny plus many new parts.
 

Geo Hahn

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You could buy a project car, do a full restoration and end up with more than $18K in it. You would have the satisfaction of doing much of it yourself -- but also a 2-year wait for the first drive.

We've all had/got that 'bug'... sorry, no known cure.
 

jsneddon

Jedi Knight
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just be sure to give it a really long test drive. I bought mine not running (with a very clean body) and it's amazing how much stuff is wrong that you'd never know about. Hopefully the front wheel won't fall off the first day you drive it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
OP
gubba

gubba

Senior Member
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just be sure to give it a really long test drive. I bought mine not running (with a very clean body) and it's amazing how much stuff is wrong that you'd never know about. Hopefully the front wheel won't fall off the first day you drive it
_________________________
Jim Sneddon
'61 TR3
Oh My God...you fellows just are not going to believe this...I was just looking threw my old post and talk about dajavu...As I finally purchased this...what I found out to be a 1963 TR3b...I was driving home from Victoria..Taking the Ferry Bla Bla Bla...I get to Ladner and everything seems fine. As I live about 1 hour away I was looking forward to the drive home and it was a glorius sunny day. About 25 minutes into the drive I start to hear a clicking sound. I pull over and check all around and cannot see anything wrong so off I go. A little farther down the road the sound comes back so I pull over and check all the knock offs still nothing. I'm in Langley and at a very busy intersection. Light changes and I step on the gas and the front drivers wheel falls right off...BANG..I'm nose out in the intersection cars beeping line ups no tools and no jack. The Police show up and want to tow my LBC away and I am not so calm at this point. Thank god for this very nice fellow who used to own a TR3 for stopping to help me get the car back on the road. It would seem that there was no locktight used on the tapperd nuts that held the spline on to the hub and that they had loosend themselves and fallen off. This was the mysterious clicking sound. Anyway all is well and I was blowen away to read JSNEDDON's last post to me. There really is a TRIUMPH GOD...Best wishes to you all regards Gary
 
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