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1960 BN7 2 seater roll bar.
- Thread starter jcsb
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DerekJ
Luke Skywalker
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You need to think carefully before installing a roll bar. Yes it will protect you in the worst case scenario of the car turing over, but bear in mind that in competition use of a head rest is mandatory if a roll bar is fitted and of course the driver is also wearing a crash helmet.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
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I've made a couple for my BN6, though they're both currently in the attic of my shop bldg. The first one (circa 1987) reaches 4" above my helmeted head, and the top could *almost* be stretched over it__A small gusset of top material at the B-pillar would've reached the turn-fastener.
The cross-bar/diagonal was modified from this original configuration, but this shows the extensiveness of the structure; IIRC, there were fifteen (15) bolt-in mounting points (the number of actual 1/2 L9 fasteners was roughly 4X that).
Several years later, show in the car:
Some more pictures from that day here: https://spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/Healey/1st_time_in_public
A couple years later, I reverted to just a single rear hoop; fits completely under an unmodified soft top (no idea about fitting under a hdtp). I figured if I ever did "real" (Dougie-style) track events, I'd have to do more bracing at the bends, but the foundation does conform to current SCCA GCR specs fo diameter and wall thickness for the weight of the car:
More pics of this 2nd iteration, during fabrication: https://spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/tube_works
I'm sure (I KNOW) I have more pics, but in a hurry to get out the door and go to lunch...
The cross-bar/diagonal was modified from this original configuration, but this shows the extensiveness of the structure; IIRC, there were fifteen (15) bolt-in mounting points (the number of actual 1/2 L9 fasteners was roughly 4X that).
Several years later, show in the car:
Some more pictures from that day here: https://spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/Healey/1st_time_in_public
A couple years later, I reverted to just a single rear hoop; fits completely under an unmodified soft top (no idea about fitting under a hdtp). I figured if I ever did "real" (Dougie-style) track events, I'd have to do more bracing at the bends, but the foundation does conform to current SCCA GCR specs fo diameter and wall thickness for the weight of the car:
More pics of this 2nd iteration, during fabrication: https://spcarsplus.com/gallery3/index.php/tube_works
I'm sure (I KNOW) I have more pics, but in a hurry to get out the door and go to lunch...
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John--
You haven't stated why you want to install the roll bar.
If it is to simply add a racy look to the car then its design needs only to be minimal and it could probably be made to allow the fabric top to be erected without providing any interference with the back of your head. However if this is for racing purposes you are talking about an extensive--and expensive--piece of gear as Randy's illustrations show. Also most sanctioning bodies require that the bars be welded to frame members, and not simply bolted on. Plus, as has been pointed out, there must be a headrest that works in conjunction with a helmet.
If you are simply after the former most any welder or pipe bender can help you. If the latter I would seek out some Healey racers for input.
You haven't stated why you want to install the roll bar.
If it is to simply add a racy look to the car then its design needs only to be minimal and it could probably be made to allow the fabric top to be erected without providing any interference with the back of your head. However if this is for racing purposes you are talking about an extensive--and expensive--piece of gear as Randy's illustrations show. Also most sanctioning bodies require that the bars be welded to frame members, and not simply bolted on. Plus, as has been pointed out, there must be a headrest that works in conjunction with a helmet.
If you are simply after the former most any welder or pipe bender can help you. If the latter I would seek out some Healey racers for input.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
This, in particular, was one (1) of the pictures I was searching for; it clearly shows the placement of the hoop between the top bows, being pushed up right against the fabric. This offered the greatest height, and I (@ 5'8 or 9") could still pass "the broomstick test."
Since this was always intended to be a bolt-in affair, I did go to great lengths__as I'd recommend anyone else to do__to make it as secure as possible. At each of the four (4) main attachment points (when there were both front and rear hoops) the 1-1/2" o.d. tube is centered over the chassis outriggers. The flat plates at the base of each tube were of sufficient length to extend two inches (2") beyond the fore/aft width of the outriggers. 1/4" thick angle iron is cradled from underside into the right=angle formed by the bottom of the floor, and the leading/trailing edge of the outrigger. The angle iron is tap for 1/2" NF bolts, AND secured with all-metal (crimped) locknuts through the hoop plates, through the floor and into the angle iron. Additionally, the outriggers were drilled for a through-bolt, and a short length of tube welded into each one so that the 1/2" bolt could be tightened without distorting (crushing) the tube.
Depending on your intentions, or desire to pursue, I can get more detailed...
Since this was always intended to be a bolt-in affair, I did go to great lengths__as I'd recommend anyone else to do__to make it as secure as possible. At each of the four (4) main attachment points (when there were both front and rear hoops) the 1-1/2" o.d. tube is centered over the chassis outriggers. The flat plates at the base of each tube were of sufficient length to extend two inches (2") beyond the fore/aft width of the outriggers. 1/4" thick angle iron is cradled from underside into the right=angle formed by the bottom of the floor, and the leading/trailing edge of the outrigger. The angle iron is tap for 1/2" NF bolts, AND secured with all-metal (crimped) locknuts through the hoop plates, through the floor and into the angle iron. Additionally, the outriggers were drilled for a through-bolt, and a short length of tube welded into each one so that the 1/2" bolt could be tightened without distorting (crushing) the tube.
Depending on your intentions, or desire to pursue, I can get more detailed...