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1500 to 1275 engine conversion

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capitalcitycars

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Hello all!
It's been awhile but after having fun surviving Michigan's job market, it's nice to be back.

I am about to come into possesion of a 1275 engine and ribcage tranny which I want to put into my 76 midget. Yeah, I know how much some people love the rubber bumpers, but in Michigan, good bumpers are mandatory. The 1500 is ok but the customization options are limited from the products I've seen on the market. Especially from Mo$$ and VB. And my car is not eaxctly stock; Miata seats, Escort selenoid, Minilites, Xeon headlights, aftermarket seatbelts, aftermarket steering wheel, Weber carb, pacesetter manifold and exhaust. Unfortunately, what's stock is Lucas electrical, but that's another project.

I need advice on how to do this. Are the engine mounts the same? Will the 1500 driveshaft match with the ribcage tranny? Any pitfalls in the electrical, besides the normal Lucas gremilins? Am I nuts for attempting this? Any and all advice, comments and sarcasm welcomed! :wink:
 
There are many things that are different, but I would think it would be a pretty easy swap.

You will need a diff driveshaft and heater box.

The motor mounts are in the same location on the frame.
 
Jeff Sigrist(sp?) has one that has been converted. Maybe he can chime in.
 
Why the different heater box? Is the heater box even needed? Would a 1275 driveshaft work? Is this engine conversion I'm attempting a common conversion? Thanks all!
 
Yes, Any A series drive shaft. By heater box, I mean the heater (in front of the battery). The inlet tube and blower are on opposite sides to clear the carbs. I would think the conversion is not common, but fairly simple.

Of course you will also need a new exhaust pipe.

Oh, and an electric fuel pump.
 
True, but we garage our classic cars for the 5 months of winter. Heck, I just fired "Murphy" up for the 1st time last week!
 
Oh... 1275 radiator/expansion tank is needed
 
As Trevor said, I have a 76 that has been converted to a 1275. I did not do the conversion and have not really looked close at a 1500 but I do not see any real issues.

I think my heater box is the original from the 76, but it has been flipped end to end and the motor and input snorkel moved to the opposite sides.

Mine has for sure the 1275 engine, transmission, radiator and expansion tank. The fuel pump is a Faucet electric mounted back at the tank.

You will need to extend the primary wiring for the coil and alternator connections.

Your 76 probably has the service counter device in line with the speedometer cable. My cable sheath has been butchered to work between the ribcase trans and the service counter. I would think it would make more sense to remove the counter and use the appropriate cable. I just have not gotten around to that yet.

If you need any pictures let me know.

Thanks,
Jeff
 
I've also made the switch in my '76. haven't got it on the road yet, but it's all inside the bonnet. One thing guys overlook is the front springs - the 1275 engine/trans combo is a lot lighter and i would recommend switching out the springs to even out the ride height (might not be an issue depending on the wear on your current springs). Heater box can be inverted pretty easily as mentioned, but a new intake hole must be found (not too hard). motor mounts are different. I know i'll think of more tweaks that had to be made, but all I can think of now are for the transition to the chrome bumpers. . . hope that helped. good luck.
 
id sell it and just buy a 1275 midget...
u can get a nice one for around $3000 or less
on ebay...lots of them available lately.....zimmmy
 
Jeff, thanks for your offer of pics and please send them to me at westmont48906@yahoo.com
Also, thanks Salyers for your info. I refuse to by a 1275 Midget. One, being in Michigan, the way people drive, I stand a better chance of surving a crash with the rubber bumpers. 2nd, I love customizing and my 76 has enough mods that it's not stock anyways. I'm also in contact with another person off another board who is attempting to do the samething in MI. Apparently, I'm not the only crazy one.

Another question, can I ditch the heater box without affecting operation of the car?
 
I hate to admit it, but those rubber bumpers won't provide a significant safety barrier in any crash that's above about 20MPH or so. They were originally designed as "15MPH" safety bumpers and installed to comply with Federal crash standards.

LBC rubber bumpers actually provide more protection for the car than for passengers! At approximately 20 MPH and higher, metal starts to deform and collapse. Those rubber bumpers aren't a significant safety issue in such collisions.

Of course, they DO provide some degree of safety, but it aint much in a Spridget.

Just drive safely, stay away from cell phone yakkers, and enjoy the ride!!!
 
Heh, in the States, the bumpers probably won't make *any* difference... you'll just drive straight under the bumper of the SUV or high-riding pick-up. First point of contact would probably be your hood, trunk, or fender!

That was one of my first impressions, in driving across the US recently - the extraordinarily high number of 'oversize' vehicles, almost all of them with one or (occasionally) two occupants.
 
That's Michigan! Land of the big duallies, pick ups and suvs. And if you have seen our pot holes, you would drive one too!
 
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