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1500 intake manifold snags

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sparkydave

sparkydave

Jedi Knight
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Got my new Weber DGV conversion, and already ran into a snag. The rear bolt connecting the intake to the exhaust header sheared the head off. Now with the Cannon manifold it doesn't look like I'll need that bolt, but I can't get the manifold to let go. It appears that I might be able to unbolt the rear lifting bracket and slide the manifold up, but it sure seems pretty stuck even with some rubber mallet persuasion.

Next question, the lower nuts holding the manifold(s) were a pain and a half to get to, but fortunately they let go nicely and I got them with the open ended combination wrench. That's the good news. Is there a magic trick to getting them back in? I could just about reach them with the tips of my fingers to unscrew them. Or can you put the manifold on while the nuts and brackets are in there?
 

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sparkydave said:
Got my new Weber DGV conversion, and already ran into a snag. The rear bolt connecting the intake to the exhaust header sheared the head off. Now with the Cannon manifold it doesn't look like I'll need that bolt, but I can't get the manifold to let go. It appears that I might be able to unbolt the rear lifting bracket and slide the manifold up, but it sure seems pretty stuck even with some rubber mallet persuasion.

Next question, the lower nuts holding the manifold(s) were a pain and a half to get to, but fortunately they let go nicely and I got them with the open ended combination wrench. That's the good news. Is there a magic trick to getting them back in? I could just about reach them with the tips of my fingers to unscrew them. Or can you put the manifold on while the nuts and brackets are in there?
Click to expand...

You're going to have even more difficulty putting those lower 2 nuts back on with the new intake manifold. I used a open/closed wrench with a 3/8" drive ratchet extension as a T-handle in the closed end and was able to turn the nuts about 1/4 flat at a time -- very tedious. If my memory serves me correctly, you can have the nuts and brackets on when you install, but you'll be futzing around under there to get things lined up. You may have to shave away part of your exhaust manifold (where "rear bolt connecting the intake to the exhaust header sheared the head off") in order for your new intake to seat properly.
 
Thanks for the tips! I'll have to see if removing the lifting eye will let it slide up off the remainder of the bolt or just see if the intake and exhaust will come off together.
 
FYI; on a 1500, the intake is pinned to the head with dowel/roll pins. With the nuts removed from the studs, you need to pull is straight back about half an inch to get it off.

See that drilling in the intake manifold between runners 3 and 4 (upper right side of your photo)?. There's a pin in there. And another on the other side between 1 and 2.
 
Those inner nuts are no fun- but you should find it a little easier with your new manifold.


Rumor is those nuts were put in a fixture and then the car built around them.


m
 
When he says back, he means towards the fender, not the rear of the car.
 
Thanks all, I got it out of there. Now for the new problem. I was hoping I could leave the EGR valve non-functional, but I guess it's going to have to come out since it won't clear the air filter. Any tips on getting that thing out? I think I'll need a 1 1/8 combination wrench and bolt the exhaust header back onto the engine. I shot lots of PB Blaster on the inside of the threads. Before I round off the only means of unscrewing it I thought I'd ask folks who might have done it before.
 
I ended up taking mine to a shop with a proper torch, they used heat, it slid right out - no charge.
 
Thanks JP, heat from the fire wrench did the trick. That and big combination wrench. Now off to the hardware store to find a suitable bolt or plug to put in the hole!
 
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