• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

1500 engine rebuild hints

Share this page

This is the only forum where I've seen gents address each other by first name.

IMO, it's because they are gents and everyone is friends/friendly here.

Correct me if I'm wrong Mr. Laird, but all Jack is saying is we'd like to get to know you better, that's all.

...although I don't think Jack has ever called me by my first name, well, at least not in recent memory.

I have no idea what Doc's first name is.

Recky, if it helps Jack's first name is Bugeye.
grin.gif
 
Lol, Mr, Bugeye to you.

Gesh, I think first names are great. If he wants his call name to be Record, so be it. Seems like a strange name but a reasonable forum name.

Record, this is a friendly place, first names or nick names are mostly the order of the day. Kelly seems like a first name or nick name wether it is or not. Record does not nor do some of the others folks use. So be it.

Record, sad to see you leave. Come back again when you need more help.
 
I don't think Records is leaving the forum, at least I
hope not, but is just leaving the " name discussion".
Im interested in following the 1500 build.
Wish I could add some usefull info but I'm just a newbie, learning something new here every day.
 
I agree. The discussion of first name is irrelevant, and this thread is about rebuilding a 1500. (though I appreciate this being a very friendly first-name-basis forum)

I have not seen many conversions from 1275 to 1500, but with the overdrive it sure makes sense. The 1500 sure has a lot of torque, better air flow.

My one and only 1500 ended up with a block cracked completely in half. I got another block and pieced the engine together. So I won't say they are the most reliable - long term engine.

So, like the TR4 engine, the front main side-seals -cork- can leak. I used Permatex #1 on them. None of this silicone stuff for that.
I would think oversize thrust bearings would only be relevant on re-machined crankshafts.
I don't think the engine is otherwise much different than any other engine. It isn't terribly difficult to rebuild.
 
First of all, since the engine is esentially a Triumph engine, it would be worthwhile to copy these questions to the triumph forum.

What is the reason you are rebuilding the engine? ie low oil pressure, low compression......

Has the engine been rebuilt in the past?

With any engine rebuild, CLEANLINESS is rule #1.
Double check everything!! Do not force anything. When assembling the engine, you should not need to force anything.

Check each moving part as you install it, it should move smoothly. For example put the crank in place and turn the crank, install one cap(don't tighten yet), and turn the crank again. There should only be a minimal increase in turning resistance. tighten down a bit and turn the crank again, make sure that the crank still moves properly. If not, FIND OUT WHY before tourqeing down the caps and breaking something.

Yisrael
 
I'll just address some fo the things I like to do to 1500 engines.

Use a Spitfire 1300 cam, then you can use the 1300 cam bearings as well with no mods to the 1500 block, to me this just makes good sense.

You can deck this head a bunch, race heads are often decked .150"+ so geting it up to 10.0 to 1 is not a big deal. These heads also benfit gretly from porting.

Use good parts, a bearing isn't just a bearing, camshafts, lifters, and same thing for gaskets and many other internal engine items, use good stuff where ever you can, tri metal bearings, Payen gasket sets, hardened cam and lifters, ARP fastners, a vernier cam timing , if you're going the performnce cam direction, no need to get a hot cam if it's not timed properly.

When you get ready to build your 1500, I do high end engine rebuild kits and offer phone tech as well, to aid you in rebuilding your engine. Give me shout if you like. I've said it before, I'll say it again, if someone get serious with performance 1500 build like they do with the 1275s, and 1380s, look out a good 1500 hot motor will eat a the 1380s for lunch. The A series engine is my favorite engine to build, and probably always will be, but the 1500 has tons of potential, and can be quite the pocket rocket.
 
thank you for the info on the topic of rebuild. I plan to start the rebuid soon. Almost ready to pull the engine soon.

For the transmission I have the shift stick move back and forth in (only in 3rd gear does this happen) when I either press on the gas or let off of it. It (measured from the top of the stick) moves about 1/4 of an inch. The engine is a fairly new rebuilt engine (about 3 years ago by a british auto shop). Don't necessarily remember if it did this right after it was rebuilt though. Since I am pulling the engine, I was considering pulling the transmission also to inspect.
Is this something to be concerned about? With pulling the transmission and opening up the cover of the transmission is this something that can be diagnosed?
 
jlaird said:
Lol, Mr, Bugeye to you.

Gesh, I think first names are great. If he wants his call name to be Record, so be it. Seems like a strange name but a reasonable forum name.

Record, this is a friendly place, first names or nick names are mostly the order of the day. Kelly seems like a first name or nick name wether it is or not. Record does not nor do some of the others folks use. So be it.

Record, sad to see you leave. Come back again when you need more help.
Click to expand...

For your info, in which you may not care, Records is my last name.... and why would that be strange.... but you never asked you just made comments and made it appear that I needed to use a first name, never saw that in the rule book...

I never said I was leaving the forum, just wanted this thread to stay on topic. I will not comment on this issue again.
 
Recky, sounds like a bad motor or trans mount giving you the shifter motion. These old mounts are terrible. It would be wise to replace them while everything is out. I had to do mine shortly after rebuilding my motor and I kicked myself for not doing it then.

FWIW, my grandmother heard of a guy named Pink Green. Yep, that's right! She worked in the birth certificate office many many years ago.

J. Records, I like that. Kinda sounds like a rapper or a record lable. That would be great if your first name was Jammin'. ( not that I'm asking. You don't wish to discuss this and that's fine with me.)

Jack, it really should be "Kelly's guy", as in, I'm her husband.

Most folks here know me as Billy, or , " OH NO.....not him AGAIN!!!" :wink:


hehehehehe, I love all of ya, each and ever one! :thumbsup:
 
When have threads here <span style="font-style: italic">ever </span>stayed on topic...? :whistle:
I was hoping to ask Recky about how his overdrive was mounted. Crossmember, subframe, welds, etc...

But I'll just wait 'til another thread. :eeek:
 
kellysguy said:
sounds like a bad motor or trans mount giving you the shifter motion. These old mounts are terrible. It would be wise to replace them while everything is out. I had to do mine shortly after rebuilding my motor and I kicked myself for not doing it then.
Click to expand...

Only the shifter is moving, the transmission is not moving (I verified this by removing the shifter boot to see if the transmission is moving also or not). The motor mounts and trany mounts are new (about 3 years old).
 
Billy is Kellys guy, thats neat. Sounds like she should have red hair. lol.

Is fine J. Record, what ever you want to be called. I was just trying to be friendly.

After all we all have the same problem here. We have funny little cars.
 
A moving shifter is because the shifting cog is moving during engine torque changes. This can really only happen when the gear / synchro is moved front / back dur to the angle cut gears, which implies looseness in the mainshaft / gear / cog assembly. Likely a warn shaft or gear thrust washer.
 
Back
Top