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1275 selection
- Thread starter Rut
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Spridget64SC
Jedi Trainee
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All 1275 years (1967-1974) are good. The later years (12V tagged) seem to be more prone to being factory sleeved blocks. Sleeved blocks cannot be bored the usual oversizes due to the thin sleeve walls. However, the sleeved blocks make great candidates for a 1380 big bore. This is because the 1380 bore size cleans the sleeve right out of the block. Then you just have to hope that the block wasn't originally sleeved to correct a casting problem (usually not) in the bore area. Sleeving was most often used to correct sloppy boring of the block in the first place.
For me, the "Holy Grail" of in-line 1275 blocks, is the 12CD block with the thick oil pan flange and no hole below the center main bearing bore. The stiffest block of all the ones imported into the USA.
The earlier cylinder heads are better in the exhaust valve-pocket area. They do not have the large "heat-dissipation" boss that the later heads possessed. The non-emission and the early (1968-1970 or so) emission heads are cast with the better exhaust port. All 12V engines have the big boss ports.
So, to try and sum it up, the 12C_ engines have the better "package" of components. Discounting the head, then all 1275s are good. A grinder with a carbide ball will cut out the big exhaust guide boss in the 12V engines and transform a later head into an early head and correct that issue.
This should help you make your decision.
Mike Miller
For me, the "Holy Grail" of in-line 1275 blocks, is the 12CD block with the thick oil pan flange and no hole below the center main bearing bore. The stiffest block of all the ones imported into the USA.
The earlier cylinder heads are better in the exhaust valve-pocket area. They do not have the large "heat-dissipation" boss that the later heads possessed. The non-emission and the early (1968-1970 or so) emission heads are cast with the better exhaust port. All 12V engines have the big boss ports.
So, to try and sum it up, the 12C_ engines have the better "package" of components. Discounting the head, then all 1275s are good. A grinder with a carbide ball will cut out the big exhaust guide boss in the 12V engines and transform a later head into an early head and correct that issue.
This should help you make your decision.
Mike Miller
OP
Rut
Obi Wan
Offline
Mike,
Thanks for your advice and the engine I have a lead on is a '68. I haven't seen the car yet so it could be anything, but we'll see. I've not considered a 1380 and I really don't know where I'm going with this, but I've collected a 210 5 speed that will be going in this winter. The cars I admire the most are essentially stock on the outside with a performance and reliability improvement.
I guess it would be possible to use the existing '72 1275 as part of the plan and try to get the best of both worlds. The tag is missing on the current engine so I only have my POs word for it. It's supposed to be a .040 engine with a 276 cam and a few other goodies, but most of the car is not as described.
Thanks, Rut
Thanks for your advice and the engine I have a lead on is a '68. I haven't seen the car yet so it could be anything, but we'll see. I've not considered a 1380 and I really don't know where I'm going with this, but I've collected a 210 5 speed that will be going in this winter. The cars I admire the most are essentially stock on the outside with a performance and reliability improvement.
I guess it would be possible to use the existing '72 1275 as part of the plan and try to get the best of both worlds. The tag is missing on the current engine so I only have my POs word for it. It's supposed to be a .040 engine with a 276 cam and a few other goodies, but most of the car is not as described.
Thanks, Rut
BlueMax
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Mike,
My 12c block had the steel sleeves in it too, my engine plans were to make a 1380 out of it anyway, I feel very lucky to have found this block... You can bore the block either way, I chose the safest way and bored mine with the offsets .010" in both directions incase I need to go to a 1400, and minimize the possibility of hitting the oil galley. After that I had the block impregnated to fill in any potential porosity bubbles that may have been open in the boring process... Then as an added precaution in aiding in oil drain back I decided to paint it with Glyptal 1201 Red. My hopes with this block are with any lucky that it will stay with me for a long while. But I’ll always keep my eyes open for another as a backup.
My 12c block had the steel sleeves in it too, my engine plans were to make a 1380 out of it anyway, I feel very lucky to have found this block... You can bore the block either way, I chose the safest way and bored mine with the offsets .010" in both directions incase I need to go to a 1400, and minimize the possibility of hitting the oil galley. After that I had the block impregnated to fill in any potential porosity bubbles that may have been open in the boring process... Then as an added precaution in aiding in oil drain back I decided to paint it with Glyptal 1201 Red. My hopes with this block are with any lucky that it will stay with me for a long while. But I’ll always keep my eyes open for another as a backup.