1275 rebuild

[bug_sixty]

Getting ready to assemble...the concern is toward the end of assembly getting the oil system up to speed without damaging the cam lobes prior to fire up. Is there a way not to have the rocker arms secured and use the starter to build pressure without the plugs in? I know about priming the pump but the galleys don't have oil in them until the engine turns... and the cam lobes don't get the oil until the oil pressure is created. Word is the lobes can be damaged within the first few seconds even with lube. I have heavy duty springs and in the past have flattened multiple cams..yiks...So.. most surely want to avoid that like the plague on this rebuild... Note to that I have covered the subject of cam and followers not being compatiable as a cause of the flattening.

 

[dklawson]

I have not heard of a method to prime the engine without turning it on the starter. However, you can probably shorten the amount of time the engine turns without oil by applying the steps that are normally used when an A-series looses its pump prime. Start by filling the oil filter before screwing it onto the filter head. You can remove the banjo bolt from the block and fill the oil pipe with oil while you turn the engine backwards. With care I suppose you could also pour oil down the hole in the block where the oil pipe connects.

 

[Billm]

If you spin it over without having the rockers on at-all (and no pushrods in the holes) then there will be virtually no pressure on the cam and you still won't create a huge mess. After you get oil pressure then you could hook up the rockers.
BillM

 

[dklawson]

I'd hate to disturb the head gasket by loosening the pedestals to remove the rocker gear as an assembly. Perhaps you can slide the rocker shaft out and leave the pedestals in place.

 

[bug_sixty]

ok.. what would happen if you have the whole lower end together and cranked it for oil pressure?

 

[Trevor Jessie]

You'd get flow, but no pressure. Might be hard on the bearings.

 

[jlaird]

Why not pre-fill filter, and pre-fill pump from banjo bolt. Then crank it till pressure shows on gauge then hit the ign switch and fire it off.

Instant pressure in my experience. Now I have only done this maybe a dozen times so your experience may vary.

 

[bug_sixty]

Well, yea I have but somehow the cam lobe didn't cut the mustard. Then,, you read how just a few turns of the cam without oil on or in the follower will result in abrasion sooo the questions..

 

[Bob Claffie]

A little more work but you could replace the springs with some weak ones, fire it up, break it in and then replace with your too strong springs. Would only cost you a head gasket. Bob

 

[smaceng]

I filled my oil pump up with vasoline. I got oil pressure in 20 seconds after it sat for 6 months.
Scott in CA

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I like the stock spring idea the best.

 

[Sarastro]

Umm...nobody mentioned assembly lube. You are using it, I hope.

Then, prime the pump and fill the oil galleries in the manner suggested, crank the engine without plugs in place, and you should get oil pressure pretty easily. As long as you are using a good moly assembly lube, you really shouldn't have to worry about wear.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

That is what I thought Steve, but in his original post he said the lube didn't prevent damage on his prior attempt.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Eric, you are overthinking this, trust me, I've literlly built scores of these engines and unlike most street owner in racing, we get to take them apart way more frequnetly than a street owner could ever dream about for refreshing, and we learn way more as well. Your new APT cam will come with a moly carbon based cam lube, wipe it generously on the lobes, journals, dizzy drive and the oil pump drive, and you will suffer no damage whatsoever while getting oil pressure during starter spinning. I think you would probably shocked that if for some reason, heavens forbid, you had to take your engine apart say after a few hours of operation, you would still see evidence of the assembly lube, trust me this is a non issue.

As for assembly lube else where, like the crank bearings, oil pump internals, and such, get a good assembly lube, not the runny red junk they sell at most part stores, go to a NAPA or Carquest and you will find CRC moly assembly lube, thats the stuff you want. Now on cylinder bore, 30SAE oil is all you need and don't dare dunk those pistons into bucket of oil unless you want to take forever to seat your rings, wipe the bores down with 30WT dino based motor oil,and massage a wee bit on the piston skirts, do not use snythetic oil or any sort of assembly lube on the bores and piston, or you may never seat the rings. Make sure you are using a good 1200ZDDP motor oil like Valvoline VR1 or Brad Penn.

AS far breaking the engine in on softer valve springs, that's V8 performance deal, where those guys darn near run valve spring pressures that's equal to our suspension spring rates on these little tater bug engines, this is not a issue, the 75-85 lbs. of seated pressure and low nose pressure these engine produce, no need for break in valve springs.


Call me when you need me brother, it's all part of the package, and I'll keep you on the right path. :thumbsup:

 

[bug_sixty]

Thanks Hap as always ..Well, I do remember one thing I did waaay back that was a no no.. I dunked the pistons in engine oil before putting them in the cylinders..and they never did seat..Didn't know that until today.. heh Hap with all that stuff you have upstairs, why don't you find a ghost writer and write a book. You would ride into the sunset a "hap"py soul!!

 

[rkep01]

Hap with all that stuff you have upstairs, why don't you find a ghost writer and write a book.

Excellent suggestion! I'll buy one.