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1275 Rebuild Problem

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Dr.:

Moss and VB list these bolts at $37 each. Can you tell me the part number from Summit (I've looked, but can't determine).

Thanks,
Mike Pennell
 
DrEntropy said:
Actually, the bearings are designed such that the shells are pinned where they mate at the seams. I'd be surprised if that slight bit of over-torque would cause any distortion. Some Plasti-Gauge would reveal ill fit, looking at the inner (babbitt) edges after assembly lube, retorque and spinning the crank would reveal "smushed" end areas. They'd be "shinier" than the rest of the bearing surface if distorted.
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In general, I agree. We used plasti-gauge all the time when we were building race motors. Applying higher levels of torque to try and prevent distortion at the mains often showed the bearings had been overtorqued. I'll have to take a look at Vizard's book to see what it says about the issue.
 
Rods need to re-sized on the big ends when rod bolt are installed, and I use ARP 206-6001 in every 1275 I build. Resizng the connecting rods is one of the biggest things looked over in a hobbist rebuild, and most times one of the most needed machining jobs to do in rebuild. Connecting rods over time get egga shaped, getting bigger at the parting line of the two section of the rods, and don't hold the bearing as well, I consider sizing the connecting rod big end a absolute must on engine rebuild.
 
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