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1275 Engine Rebuild - It starts this weekend!

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Bruce_B

Bruce_B

Jedi Warrior
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I'm determined to start this weekend. I've got a Engine stand adapter from Chris and its time to begin.

At the very least I want to 'wash' the block and then mount it to the engine stand (or wash it on the engine stand).

Qustions:

--Best solutions to wash it it down
and
-After washing it down what should I coat the engine with...oil....?

I will cover it with a clean tarp after the engine is cleaned and prepped.

Hopefully next week I'll be able to start building the bottom end.

Also - just received from 5 speed Datsun trans. kit from Rivergate --- but that's weeks away.

I'm starting up a web page that will a section donated to this engine rebuild - I'll supply the URL later.

Thanks.
 
The very best thing would be to strip the block & head & have them hot tanked first. With the core plugs removed, they can get the water jackets completely cleared of rust buildup. Makes a big difference in how cool the new engine runs.

Most tanks will eat the cam bearings, or anything else that contains aluminum, so they should be removed first & replaced with new.

After all machining is done, thoroughly scrub ALL the parts in hot soapy water. Pay special attention to brushing out all oil passages. Microscopic grit in the metal pores will really shorten the life of a new engine. After washing, spray down with WD40. One of the few things that it is good for.
D
 
Yes, definite hot tank, before the machine work. But if you just want to clean it up a bit before disassembly, usually I squirt them with simple green then use a power washer.
 
Definitely keep us informed. I've just started this process myself, also with one of Chris's stands.
 
Thanks Guys.

My main questions was about cleaning the block. I didn't mention that:

(1) Engine is back from machine shop. Core plugs had been removed before hot tanking the engine Oil galleries were uncapped/cleaned and tapped for allen plugs. Deck was skimmed, bores +40. Sitting on my work bench with WD-40 sprayed on it and the crank.

(2) Crankshaft in now +10, new cam bearings were put on. New +40 pistons were put on their rods using APT hardware.

I've got a aluminium flywheel, a new Longman GT7 Big Valve Head, Swiftune Fast Road camshaft and their adjustable Timing gears and chain and their 1.5 rockers. Once its all done I'm bolting this puppy up to a Rivergate/Datsun 5 speed Tranny. I'm also putting on a HIF44 1.75" carb.

I've spent way to much money on this project and I still have to buy gasket sets, misc. bolts screws etc.

This will all be on my web site, plus I'll be asking questions along the way....thanks.
 
Oh, if it's just back from the machine shop, I would just leave it alone, unless it starts to flash rust. If so, hit it with a light oil, but just remember you'll have to get that off before you paint it.

Good luck have fun! Oh yeah, use Payen/Felpro gaskets!
 
Bruce, did you scrub the bores thoroughly after the machine work? What Dave mentioned about the oil galleries holds true with the cylinder bores too.
Jeff
 
Yes - Especially scrub the cylinder bores. The inside is much more important than the outside.

In my experience WD40 will prevent rust & can be painted over in a couple of days.
D
 
FWIW I got a can of engine fogging spray and did all the "inside" surfaces. seemed to work well.
 
40 weight oil in a spray can, Bruce. Used as an anti-corrosion spray in the cylinders for long term storage of an assembled engine. Run the engine at about 2000 RPM, and spray it in the carbs until the engine quits. It supposedly prevents corrosion and having the rings stick to the bores.
Jeff
 
USed typically in a marine application for winter storage. One of those valves will always be open as the engine sits in storage. Keeps the internal rotating parts from siezing up when not rotated for a long time. Every other month I walk to the back of the garage and turn over my spare 1275 by hand just to make sure things can stay moving. Added a few tsp of oil to each cylinder some months back and spun the engine over with battery connected to the starter.
 
A thin oil like kerosene will work to keep rust off temporarily or olive oil. The easiest thing to remove it with before painting is carb cleaner or laquer thinner. You definitely have a lot of money in that motor, lets hope it lasts a long time for you.
 
I hot water wash my blocks as last cleaning, normally right before assembly starts. I would remove oil galley plugs, I've got one of those engine cleaning brush kits, I use a round toliet brush to scrub the cylinder down. Then air blow dry it, shoot the bores and the main bearing with spray lube. The spray cabinets machine shop have do a pretty good job, but they dont srub out the orfices, so I never consider this to be my only cleaning. As far as how to store it as you build it, get a big plastic thrash bag and use that to cover it up, I take the excess of the bags at the ends and tie it up at the adapter, works better than a tarp.
 
Ahh, sealed in a large plastic bag with an oil soaked rag.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their advice. I've got my rifle cleaning brush, and toilet bowl brush and I'm set to go! (When does the TIDY BOWL man in the little rowboat show up?....LOL
 
Bruce_B said:
I'm determined to start this weekend. I've got a Engine stand adapter from Chris and its time to begin.
Click to expand...

If I can ask...Where can I find more information about the Engine Stand Adapter from Chris?

Thanks in advance
 
You ask nicely for one and make a donation to Basil to support the forum. Details on the adapter are here , and a picture of an engine on the stand here. If you need one let me know and give me a little while to get it to you.
 
ChrisS said:
You ask nicely for one and make a donation to Basil to support the forum. Details on the adapter are here , and a picture of an engine on the stand here. If you need one let me know and give me a little while to get it to you.
Click to expand...

I just PM'd you!! Thanks for the information and advice
 
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