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1275 Damper Pulley Needed

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Discovered this issue on my rebuilt 1275 +.040 just about ready to go into Bugsy IV. Anyone got a spare 1275 Damper Pulley available.

Trying to get this engine ready to go within the next few weeks.

Thanks
 
oh, crap! As an alternative to stock, have a look at Drooartz page reference in the Reliable thread below. Doug
 
Romac Damper is available as 2 models. Deluxe 2 piece A0239SA currently out of stock - $283.00, Lesser Grade $187 Romac 0239 and available. New MOSS Damper $114 and in stock.Is there going to be that much difference?
 
Bit the bullet. Ordered new from Moss for $114.00
 
I would appreciate hearing how you make out with the installation. Our Yellow BE has a 948 and simple, skinny, crankshaft pulley (plus Datsun spd); the Silver Sprite has a 1275 with (presumably) the stock crankshaft pulley which is a lot thicker. Fitting the engine etc. in the Yellow BE wasn't a real problem, but we ended up removing the crankshaft pulley from the 1275 in order to install the engine/tranny, and then bolting it in place after the assembly was installed - no opportunity to properly torque it with this approach. Thanks, Doug
 
OK Guys, Big Nut on Damper Pulley, Clockwise or Counter Clockwise to loosen. There does not appear to be a Lock Tab and using by big 600 ft. Lb Impact does not appear to be able to budge this bolt.
 
Is the locking tab similar to the big nut on the rear axle? Cause I don’t see anything like that on the damper pulley. I hope this wasn’t put on with permanent LockTite.
 
Locking tab is very much like the rear axle lock tab. You tighten the nut and bend the washer over one flat. The tab on the ID of the washer fits in a slot on the crank, you tighten the nut and then bend the washer up against one flat on the bolt. Here's a photo of a bolt and washer removed from the crank. IMG_3437.JPG
 
Oh, man Jim! (regards getting the bolt off). No brilliant suggestions but a small story: we'd bought a used BMW 3 series back in the 80s sometime, and I grabbed my under 18 +200 pound (no fat) son to help me break all the wheel nuts loose and then retorque them, just so we'd know we'd be able to change a flat tire. My cheapo 1/2" impact got most of them off; borrowed a Milwaukee 1/2" from a neighbour and got most of the remaining ones off; got out my Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar and put a five ft snipe over the handle for the lost nut, and broke the unbreakable socket. Put the impact socket on, and Dan bounced a bit to break it loose: over a thousand foot pounds of torque on a gosh-durned wheel nut. Soak it with penetrating stuff; get the breaker bar and ft chunk of pipe and a heavy friend. You'll probably also need an 8 ft 2x4 to bolt on some place to hold the engine. Doubt if heat would help here as there's too much metal and perhaps things that would not like to get hot.
Better yet, rent/borrow a healthier 1/2" impact or (even better yet) 3/4". My el cheapo 3/4" drive has handled all my nut busting problems subsequently. Good fortune on this! Doug
 
I forgot to mention: he figured his father wasn't quite the idiot (in some areas) after that little exercise. Doug
 
Or I’ll just let Steve Miller at my local LBC Shop handle it.
 
A impact wrench of sufficient caliber ought to do the job. 3/4 perhaps.
 
Or a compressor with more CFM in air delivery.
 
Success, I used a heavy duty spade bit and found it fit perfectly in a hole in the side of the flywheel and stuck a large Phillips screw driver through a mounting hole for the starter. Rotated engine until the two locked up and engine would not rotate. Got the "heavy duty" 600 ft pounds Craftsman Impact Gun out and hammered away 3 times to no avail. Frustrated, I pulled out my $39.95 Harbor Freight Electric Impact Wrench and said let me give this a go. It may burn up but let me try. First Try, Chug, Chug, Chug and Whirr that big bolt spun right out. Pulled on the Damper Pulley and it came off right in my hand. now to paint it and add a timing mark exactly where the old timing mark was. Dremel Tool and cutting blade will make a small mark, accurately in short fashion. This is about the third or fourth time I've used this HF Gun to get something stubborn apart and it's never failed yet. As long as you have room to get the gun in here it will definitely do the job.
 
Jim, I have one of those guns that I bought for $35 about 12 years ago. At that price it can hammer away at a bolt until it burns out or the bolt spins out. It has saved me several times, but it usually takes me 20 minutes to dig out from the depths of the tool cabinet.
 
Trevor, IT worked though. And I've used it several other times to remove stubborn nuts and bolts.
 
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