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I have ordered several tab washers for the crank bolt from the usual sources. What I get is a washer with a notch in it to fit around a key. What I need is one with a tab bent down to fit in the key groove. Where can I source one that is correct? Or, is there something else amiss that I can't figure out?
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1275 Crank Bolt Tab Washer
- Thread starter erstearns
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Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
You have the correct one. Part gets bent down into pulley, part gets bent up around the bolt. Loc-tite works as well.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
Offline
I think you have the correct one. The notch goes around the key (locking the washer to the crank) then pound the washer into the indentation on the pulley (locking the washer to the pulley) and bend up the other side of the washer around the bolt head (locking the bolt).
It is all very silly... Use some lok-tite.
It is all very silly... Use some lok-tite.
Okay lets try this way. The key does not extend out to the end of the crank, the slot in the crank starts some distance in. Hence, nothing to fit in the slot in the washer. My curiosity is if the washers are correct, what and why the difference in the parts I have? Engine came out of a Mini Delivery Truck, dont know if it was original to that vehicle?
Ultimately LocTite will work but I am puzzled.
Ultimately LocTite will work but I am puzzled.
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
I don't remember if I got the right washer the last time I worked on an A-series engine. Regardless, you could modify what you have received.
Take the locking washer, and mark the location where you need the tab to be. Hacksaw two shallow slits from the ID about 1/8" toward the OD. The space between the slits should be about the width of the keyway. Place the washer over the shaft and use a punch to bend the "tab" you cut into the keyway on the pulley. It may not be pretty but it should functionally duplicate what you want and it will not be visible when fully assembled.
Take the locking washer, and mark the location where you need the tab to be. Hacksaw two shallow slits from the ID about 1/8" toward the OD. The space between the slits should be about the width of the keyway. Place the washer over the shaft and use a punch to bend the "tab" you cut into the keyway on the pulley. It may not be pretty but it should functionally duplicate what you want and it will not be visible when fully assembled.
lesingepsycho
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I ordered that tab washer recently during my rebuild and I had the same problem you describe. It was the keyed washer but there was no key there for the washer to engage and it was really stiff so folding it up around the bolt was going to be very difficult if not impossible withou doing as suggested and cutting my own "tabs" with a hacksaw. In the end I decided to go down to a really awesome hardware store that we have here locally and I got a big star washer that fit perfectly with aggressive teeth and used lok-tite. I know not everyone will like that but it's working very well and I have confidence in it.
But the bigger question is, what's up with these LBC suppliers that seem to get a lot of hardware completely wrong? I haven't had problems with "parts" but nuts, bolts, washers, SHEESH! C'mon guys!
JACK
But the bigger question is, what's up with these LBC suppliers that seem to get a lot of hardware completely wrong? I haven't had problems with "parts" but nuts, bolts, washers, SHEESH! C'mon guys!
JACK
jollyroger
Jedi Trainee
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Everyone keeps saying to use loctite. USE loctite. The washers we get now days are too soft and will not hold. The correct washer for the crank has no nipple for the key slot. It is slightly bowl shaped and designed to be pushed into the shallow recess in the front pulley(looks like a ledge) and using a pair of expanded channellocks pulling the other side of the washer against the crank bolt flats. This locks the washer to the pully and to the crank bolt and keeping it from unscrewing...us loctite!
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
These engines are full of senseless tab washers, that do no to very little good, this being one of them. I'm guesing someone's relative owned the tab washer factory, that's the only thing that makes sense of why they use so many of them in useless applications 
I hate to sound like a broken record, use loctite
I hate to sound like a broken record, use loctite 
Spridget64SC
Jedi Trainee
Offline
What might have happened is that the locking tab washer on the crank pulley bolt might have been a mis-placed cam nut locking-tab washer. The cam nut lock tabs have that little locating tab/finger. Seen this a few times before. I'll ofter use then broken cam nut lock washers (missing the little tab) for the cranshaft. Might have to help with the bore clearance a bit with a file or grinder, but they'll work.
Also, a vote for Locktite "Blue". I've used Locktite alone, Locktite and a washer, but never just a washer alone. Had these loosen up just too many times in racing situations. Belts and suspenders, you know! Torque to 100 lb-ft. I use 2 3/8" bolts in the crank and a long length of square tube to torque against. If the flywheels on, make up a tool from a section of old ring gear and some 3/8" coupler nuts to hold the fly wheel end. Use some 5/16" bolts to hold it in place. The bolts go in the transmission fit up holes.
HTH,
Mike Miller
Also, a vote for Locktite "Blue". I've used Locktite alone, Locktite and a washer, but never just a washer alone. Had these loosen up just too many times in racing situations. Belts and suspenders, you know! Torque to 100 lb-ft. I use 2 3/8" bolts in the crank and a long length of square tube to torque against. If the flywheels on, make up a tool from a section of old ring gear and some 3/8" coupler nuts to hold the fly wheel end. Use some 5/16" bolts to hold it in place. The bolts go in the transmission fit up holes.
HTH,
Mike Miller