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John Vudmaska
Freshman Member
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I just pulled apart my motor but now i have a problem.
I can't get the heads off,whats the secret
thanks
John Vudmaska
I can't get the heads off,whats the secret
thanks
John Vudmaska
-
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12 cyl heads
- Thread starter John Vudmaska
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Go to our Tech Tip Database For Marque, select "Any or All Marques" for category, choose "Head". Then so a seach and look at the tip about the Rope Trick.
Basil
Basil
OP
John Vudmaska
Freshman Member
Offline
basil ,
the tech tip didn't have anything in it.
and i should have mentioned that i didn,t pull
the engine from the car.
i am trying to do the head gasket with out pulling the motor.
the rope trick would be nice but i cant turn the motor over without looseing the timeing chain
thanks
john vudmaska
the tech tip didn't have anything in it.
and i should have mentioned that i didn,t pull
the engine from the car.
i am trying to do the head gasket with out pulling the motor.
the rope trick would be nice but i cant turn the motor over without looseing the timeing chain
thanks
john vudmaska
Online
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by John Vudmaska:
basil ,
the tech tip didn't have anything in it.
and i should have mentioned that i didn,t pull
the engine from the car.
i am trying to do the head gasket with out pulling the motor.
the rope trick would be nice but i cant turn the motor over without looseing the timeing chain
thanks
john vudmaska<hr></blockquote>
The tech tip data base does have something in it - I know I put it there. Try again.
Be sure on Marque, select "All (or Most) Cars" and for category, select "Head" Leave the other fields blank and click search.
basil ,
the tech tip didn't have anything in it.
and i should have mentioned that i didn,t pull
the engine from the car.
i am trying to do the head gasket with out pulling the motor.
the rope trick would be nice but i cant turn the motor over without looseing the timeing chain
thanks
john vudmaska<hr></blockquote>
The tech tip data base does have something in it - I know I put it there. Try again.
Be sure on Marque, select "All (or Most) Cars" and for category, select "Head" Leave the other fields blank and click search.
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Seems like a good way to bend a rod. Not much different from hydraulic lock.
D
D
Online
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
Seems like a good way to bend a rod. Not much different from hydraulic lock.
D<hr></blockquote>
Only if the head is pretty much welded on. The rope is soft and compresses (hydraulic lock is caused from water getting into the cylinders under power and water does NOT compress - not good). If you soak the studs in WD 40 before hand (over night is what I do), and put the rope in the front and rear cyls to distribute the force, then turn by hand from the front crank, the head will pop off quite nicely. I've used this trick with great success and never had a problem. Most recenly I used it on a 62 EType I had that had a head that I just could not get loose any other way. In every case I've tried it, a stubbornly stuck head popped loose with remarakbly little effort.
Basil
[ 04-11-2004: Message edited by: Basil ]</p>
Seems like a good way to bend a rod. Not much different from hydraulic lock.
D<hr></blockquote>
Only if the head is pretty much welded on. The rope is soft and compresses (hydraulic lock is caused from water getting into the cylinders under power and water does NOT compress - not good). If you soak the studs in WD 40 before hand (over night is what I do), and put the rope in the front and rear cyls to distribute the force, then turn by hand from the front crank, the head will pop off quite nicely. I've used this trick with great success and never had a problem. Most recenly I used it on a 62 EType I had that had a head that I just could not get loose any other way. In every case I've tried it, a stubbornly stuck head popped loose with remarakbly little effort.
Basil
[ 04-11-2004: Message edited by: Basil ]</p>
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I was refering to this part;
"but I suppose you could use a remote starter button to "bump" the engine."
Not exactly gentle.
D
"but I suppose you could use a remote starter button to "bump" the engine."
Not exactly gentle.
D
Online
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Dave Russell:
I was refering to this part;
"but I suppose you could use a remote starter button to "bump" the engine."
Not exactly gentle.
D<hr></blockquote>
I agree - and thats why I recommend doing it by hand if at all possible. But this trick really does work and it makes getting a stuck head off much easiet that it would otherwise be. But as with everything, exercise caution.
I was refering to this part;
"but I suppose you could use a remote starter button to "bump" the engine."
Not exactly gentle.
D<hr></blockquote>
I agree - and thats why I recommend doing it by hand if at all possible. But this trick really does work and it makes getting a stuck head off much easiet that it would otherwise be. But as with everything, exercise caution.
Michael J.
Jedi Warrior
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The "Rope Trick" did not work for me. The heads bind on stop leak that deposits in the space between the stud shanks and the holes for them in the head.
There are a couple of choices.
I recommend going to WWW.JagLovers.Org and downlading Kirby Palm's free book "Help For The XJS Owner". In it is a drawing for a head removal tool that requires the cam shaft be removed and bolts to the studs for the camshaft bearing caps.
The other way, the way I did it is a lot less pleasant. I used a bottle jack (six inch high 15 cm body) and walked the head up bu catching the coener on the webbing of the block and pushung against the freeze plugs in the head. I used wood shims to keep the head from coming back down on the end just raised. This is slow, tedious, frustrating and risks chipping the aluminum bosses for the freeze plugs. I used a crow bar and i/4" plywood shims, stacking them on op of each other as I slowly walked the head up the studs. DO NOT ALLOW THE STEEL PRY BAR TO BEAR DIRECTLY AGAINST THE ALUMINUM OF THE HEAD!!!
After, I used gun bore cleaning brushes to clean the crud out of the stud bore holes and used a lot of scotchbrite pads to clean the corrosion, dried stop leak off the studs.
You can try penetrating oil, but the nature of the stop leak prevents it from soaking the 4 inches needed.
I have removed three sets of heads this way. Next Time, if there is a next time, I want to try the tool in Palm's book.
Persitance pays. Take your time. Coat the studs with red electrical varnish after they have been cleaned.
Good luck.
There are a couple of choices.
I recommend going to WWW.JagLovers.Org and downlading Kirby Palm's free book "Help For The XJS Owner". In it is a drawing for a head removal tool that requires the cam shaft be removed and bolts to the studs for the camshaft bearing caps.
The other way, the way I did it is a lot less pleasant. I used a bottle jack (six inch high 15 cm body) and walked the head up bu catching the coener on the webbing of the block and pushung against the freeze plugs in the head. I used wood shims to keep the head from coming back down on the end just raised. This is slow, tedious, frustrating and risks chipping the aluminum bosses for the freeze plugs. I used a crow bar and i/4" plywood shims, stacking them on op of each other as I slowly walked the head up the studs. DO NOT ALLOW THE STEEL PRY BAR TO BEAR DIRECTLY AGAINST THE ALUMINUM OF THE HEAD!!!
After, I used gun bore cleaning brushes to clean the crud out of the stud bore holes and used a lot of scotchbrite pads to clean the corrosion, dried stop leak off the studs.
You can try penetrating oil, but the nature of the stop leak prevents it from soaking the 4 inches needed.
I have removed three sets of heads this way. Next Time, if there is a next time, I want to try the tool in Palm's book.
Persitance pays. Take your time. Coat the studs with red electrical varnish after they have been cleaned.
Good luck.
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Maybe it is not practical to do on the Jag. On most other cars I just remove the studs first.
D
D