• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

100M high oil pressure

61tr3

Freshman Member
Offline
I know I crossed a line somewhere, I'm a Triumph guy helping a friend with a AH100M,
The initial problem was low compression in #3, we pulled the head and oil pan and removed the piston. Found the upper two rings lined up together and a groove was lightly scared into the cylinder wall. After a quick hone to remove the groove and a new set of rings for the cylinder; we reinstalled the piston and closed up the oil pan.
We added synthetic oil 20/50 and then started the engine. oil pressure blew out the spin on filter. The guage showed 100+ oil pressure. We took the regulator apart and cleaned, reassembled and the same results. We replaced the reg piston and spring, same results.
Any ideas of what were missing?
 
Been there- done that. You covered up the bleed back hole on the block with the oil pan gasket or sealer. It is at the oil presure relief valve. It lets pressurse bleed off from the back of the valve and goes back into the pan. With this blocked the relief valve wont move and you get over a 100lbs. of pressure. It is a tiny hole on the bottom of the block that is easy to cover up with gasket sealer. Take the pan off and see if you blocked it. wheelguy ( Allen Hendrix )
 
Allen,
Thanks, you nailed it. we plugged it up with gasket sealer. We cleaned out the drain port, reinstalled the pan, added oil and started the car; 55PSI.
Thanks again and I just convinced two other people to join this group of british car lovers.
Glen
 
The great thing about this forum is you get to tap into the knowledge of others (like me) who have already done it 99 wrong ways first . Happy New Year!!
Wheelguy

Allen Hnedrix
 
This thread (of course) came up just a day or two after I buttoned up the oil pan on my BN2. I used a non-hardening sealer, Permatex high-tack brush on and the gasket that came with the County brand conversion set.

Do you think I am going to have a problem? Not know this was a potential issue, I didn't really pay that close of attention to that area. May I ask what sort of gasket sealer you used?

Thanks,
Walt
 
Permatex is a non-hardning sealer. You may be alright as long as the gasket is not covering the hole. If you have a problem ... the Permatex will allow you to remove and replace the oil pan with no problems. Wheelguy Allen Hendrix
 
Allen,
Thanks a lot for your help. Do you know if the gasket can go on the wrong way? I'm pretty sure it was symmetrical front to rear and I seem to remember it had a little cutout area on both sides about midway from front to rear.
Thanks,
Walt
 
There is a cut out for it. If you have not put oil in yet... drop the pan and see. If you have ..start the car and watch oil pressure. If it starts climbing toward 80lbs. "SHUT HER DOWN " and then drain oil and drop pan. If its is right you should not get more than 60lbs on gauge. Of course my gauge is off so 70lbs. on the gauge is really 60lbs. I would try it first. Just do not rev it til you are sure it is not going too high.
Allen Hendrix
 
Back
Top