100-4 turn signal

[rossco]

When I put the new gland washer and stator nut back on the bottom end of the steering column, and snug the nut up tight, does that hold the turn signal lever in place so it doesn't turn freely at the steering wheel end? If not, what does hold that lever at the 12 o'clock position?

 

[AH100M]

Yes, it does (or should!).

 

[57_BN4]

Requires two people and a bit of patience to get it nipped up exactly at 12.00. Also put some silicone sealant around the olive underneath the nut to stop it leaking.

 

[glemon]

Requires two people and a bit of patience to get it nipped up exactly at 12.00.

Or one person and a LOT of patience, have done it by myself, a bit of trial and error involved, but not impossible.

 

[rossco]

Yes it did. Now, no horn or turn signals. Is it possible the round metal disc with the contact points (inside the steering wheel hub) is out of position? I put the retainer ring with the hook on it at 12:00.

 

[glemon]

I would check all the bullet connections at the bottom of the stator tube first, if you haven't already, make sure nothing got pulled loose or broken. Partly because that is where you were working and mostly because you don't have to tear everything apart to check it. If that isn't it did you open the turn signal head at the other end? a wire or two there could have been pulled out or pinched in the process. As Recall about 4 wires come out the tube and are screwed down to the various connecting points in a tight little arc, it all has to be snugly attached correctly with a little extra fed out to attach them then carefully fed back through the stator tube to take up the slack, for which there is really no room, it is easy to get a short or a break in the circuit at this point. The turn signals should work regardless of the orientation of the hook, which I assume is the turn signal operating lever.

 

[57_BN4]

Check the fuse hasn't gone too. There should be 12V on one of the double bullet terminals next to the horn when the key is on.

 

[rossco]

I'll check the fuse first. The hook is inside the wheel hub. It's separate from the turn signal lever. It appears to key into a spline in the contact head where the wires terminate as you pointed out. I put that at 12:00 before I tightened the nut on the far end of the stator tube. I had a hunch I should have checked inside the head before I put it back. I didn't. Now I may have to do it again. Ugly. Thanks for your help. Every answer opens new possibilities. R

 

[MikeAH100M]

Norman Nock's book of tech articles has a helpful description of how to assure that you get the flasher/horn connections correct - page 229. That was the problem on my 100.

 

[roscoe]

The Nock book also details the reasons that the trafficator (what a perfect name) is easy to assemble incorrectly. It can be nicely assembled improperly resulting in a variety of issues including not cancelling when finished with the turn you just tried to signal for. I went through mine completely and it has since worked as advertised but it was assembled incorrectly when I first took it apart. Now that it "works" I still find that I use hand signals any time I feel comfortable that opposing traffic won't remove my arm, because the flash rate is variable (as well as the interval it takes to start flashing). It's sort of variably variable. Oddly enough everything else electrical works, so I think ofthe trafficator as a reminder that something that relies on the electrical system might go south at any time. Don't forget you can disconnect the bullet connectors at the olive nut and put an ohm meter on them with alligator clips so you can watch to see if the signals or horn actually complete the circuit in the hub when you activate them. As I recall I spent many hours ranting "that can't be the problem because I checked it yesterday and it worked" for the entire electrical part of my rebuild.