100/4 Rear Fender Potential Rust Area

[zblu]

Just been looking over the car in preparation for the easter get together and have had the memory jogged regarding the rear of the rear fender joining the chassis dividing panel, there is a water/dirt trapment area there, was there a flush hole or similar done or is there a fix other than sponging out?

 

[Keoke]

Hi zblu, sponging out as you say is the most viable alternarive. However, a friend cf mine has boxed both ends of the rear fender in. Removal of the fender is not impacted.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[vette]

Hello Zblu, as Keoke said boxing of some sort would be desireable. I have been restoring my Bj7 now and have gotten the right side just about finished. Rebuilt the rear fender and had some thoughts about closing in the opennings front and back on the rear fender. I will build some splash panels to close off those opennings similar to what you would find on MGBs. The panel can be fabricated to match the inside of the fender contour and the inner fender panel. I would then flange it on the edge to mate with the inner panel and use a universal rubber seal similar to a door rubber weather strip to have it seal against the back side of the fender. The flanged edge mating with the inner panel can then be screwed to the inner panel with self tapping screws. It is very near what is done on the MGs.
Dave C.

 

[Genos2]

Thought I'd add my two cents,on two of my Healeys when I stripped them down,On interior& under panels I used a marine epoxy style primer & then marine paint. The theory being its tougher& more used to severe elements. Plus here in the rainy northwest,it was easier to rinse out if driven in rain. My wife & I owned several bodyshops,& found that panels boxed or sealed in were more prone to rusting from the inside out. Moisture that gets in can't always get out.Mine were done in late 80s, no rust yet. Least not visible. Genos2

 

[GregW]

I used a marine epoxy style primer & then marine paint.

Was that the anti-fouling paint that keeps barnacles off?

 

[Genos2]

Did get stuck on beach at Ocean Shores once, luckily above high tide mark, buried her almost to the knock-off. cheers Genos

 

[zblu]

not keen on the boxing in idea due to thoughts along the lines Genos2 has put up

 

[vette]

Zblu, Studies have shown that depending on what kind of climate or temperature extremes you put your car into, ex. being put a car in a heated garage from a cold outside temp, then dictates what condensation might occurr. I have restored many cars and yes, some of the inner metal work is rusted just as badly as the outside metal work. But mostly when I find this it is because water and dirt and sediment was able to work its way into the area. If your inner metal work is coated with an epoxy type paint then keeping the debre and such out is a big help. With that type of coating any water at gets on the metal will be just like the metal on the outside. "It is coated and protected'. One last point is that the splash panels that i suggest will not be air tight and in the healey's case probably won't be tight at the top. It will keep debre out therefore crude can not lay in there and work its way into metal seams and joints. I wonder why most manufactures design inner wheel wells and splash panels into their cars???

 

[Genos2]

I agree w/vette, to a point, that is why most new car companys use seam-sealer & leave cavities exposed or use plastic shields to keep large particles out. They don't, generally seal areas air-tight.