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‘78 Midget Fender Cracks

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Blueghost

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At the edge of the front fender well, the sheet metal turns inward 90 degrees for stiffness. Right fender has about a 6 inch crack in the 90 degree bend, at about the 1:00 position. It has been there for at least 6 years and 30K plus miles. The crack has progressed; first noticed when it was about an inch long several years ago. I planned on stop drilling the crack at each end, and weld/braze the crack. But, wait there’s more.
MG Pic.jpg

I also have a ‘78 basket case donor car. I considered using a donor fender, BUT. When looking at the donor fenders, they have a very similar condition. The 90 degree flange on both sides is obviously warped (at that location only), and there is less obvious outward bulge at the same location. Finally, I have a Bugeye bonnet (in poor condition) that has the same warpage and crack in the right fender well, approximately same location. None of these cars have any front end damage. This is either a common stress point, or one heck of a coincidence. I understand the Bugeye damage as the bonnet is not well supported.

Question: is there a best way to repair? Simple braze/weld? Needs doubler on inside?

Stress cracks will usually reappear if the stress is not relieved, or at least repaired properly to spread out (or stop) the stress. Adding a doubler may mean the stress just starts again at the edge of the doubler.

Thanks for your experience and help. Blueghost.
 
Simple, braze/weld? Needs doubler on inside? Easy fix.
 
Or, flapping in the breeze.
You have a kink, or bulge outward, something isn't aligned right, methinks.
Nose down too far, or something, but that's gonna be a bugger to find and fix.
On my older vehicles, when I get a crack (and I have on in the bonnet of my old pickup), I find small diameter round steel stock, 5/16" to 3/8", clean off the inside of the bead in the wing at the wheel arch, bend to rod to fit (at least 12", MUCH longer if you can) and weld it to the inside when you weld up the crack.
Keeps flex out of the wing or whatever part it is.
If you can go the full wheel arch, better still. Prime that backside, paint, the undercoat to keep stuff from working in between and rusting.

Just a thought.
Dave
 
Good thought, solve the prob. forever.
 
What's going on is the tire is grabbing the fender when turned to full lock when hitting a bump. This usually happens to me when turning up or out of a steep drive. Oversized tires and/or lowering contribute to this. Depending on direction of travel it bends back and forth. Mine does it that's how I know but it doesn't have cracks yet though.
 
Thanks All, I always love it when response comes from someone who has actually done it.

TOC Dave, I really don't care about the donor car (with minor bulge), and cant speak to its history. Your idea for installing round stock at least 12 inches long (or longer) with prime and under coat sounds bang on.

Again, Thanks. Blueghost.
 
David Doan from this list doesn't own a welder but fixed similar crack on his BE bonnet with round bar stock and JB Weld. Not sure how it will hold up compared to welding but another idea. Never thought of tire hitting fender as the cause of this issue.
 
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