• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)

TR2/3/3A replacing front wheel bearing races

Share this page

S

sp53

Yoda
Offline
I am replacing the front wheel bearing and was wondering how others replace the inner race. Now I am using a punch to remove the race and a brass drift to pound the race back inside the hub. I am thinking someone has a better idea??? I am slowing tapping the new race in with the brass drift and maybe that is best.

I guess the races would come together as the big nut is tightened, but it seems the force to pull them together would be more force than nut tightening can deliver….

I guess I will slowly tap the race into the hub until the race bottoms out in the hub. I suppose the pros would have a press to do the job.



Steve
 
Use the old race and drive them in with a brass hammer.

Or a large socket that’s the same size as the race diameter
 
I have a bearing installation tool set from Harbor Fright. I guess it works, but I mostly use the pieces with my press to install bearing races.

You might want to consider getting a press. So many parts of these cars are press-fit together that it seems almost essential to have one.

Don't try to install it by tightening the hub nut with it partially installed. You won't get enough force to seat it properly and you could break something.
 
I finally bought a cheap (less than $200 I think) Harbor Freight press and wondered why I didn’t do it decades ago. Bearings are a breeze. The footprint is actually pretty small. The kids will even come visit to use it.

Steve
‘55 TR2
 
I should get a press for U the joints and other stuff , for sure.

Anyways this could be a dumb question: I was wondering which is the proper way to install the felt seal retaining ring? I have seen it done both ways with curve flat disc side facing the engine and or facing the tire. I am going with the curve washer facing the engine. I hope it does not make any real difference????

steve
 
+1 on the press. I bought a $100 press 30 years ago. Not much of the original parts are left, as I bent most of it over the years, but it is still going strong. I also use appropriately sized sockets to drive both races and seals. It's not great for the socket, but my Craftsman are lifetime warranty...no questions asked.

If a press is not available, driving them will work. Just be sure not to allow them to cock as they go in. I don't even worry about using brass, as bearing races are hardened much harder than any drifts you can buy. Make sure they fully bottom out...which you can tell by the sound of the hammer blows.

You are correct, driving will never cause the races to move. The tapered roller bearings will shatter long before they are able to move the race!
 
CJD, I hope you never need to find out first-hand, but the Craftsman lifetime warranty ain't what it used to be. Questions may be asked. Hoops may need to be jumped through.
 
Oh well. Really makes little difference, since I've only used the warranty twice in 51 years?!?
 
Back
Top