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TR6 How many fuel filters-TR6

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AggieTR6

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Based on the fun I had in my TR4 back in the day, I finally decided to purchase a TR6 about 6 months ago. Have been working on interior for most of the time, but am now looking at spiffing up the engine compartment. As the PO has moved away, thought I would ask the group about fuel filters. In the pix there are three in ln line fuel filters mounted just prior to the electric fuel pump. Don't believe I have ever seen anything like this -- so am asking group if there is a reason to have this configuration? Right now I am thinking that I should just pull all of this out and replace with new filter and electric pump. Thoughts????
Three fuel filters.jpg
 
The PO could have had a reason. Seems like he must have.
Have you checked for any evidence of rust or some sort of contamination in the fuel tank ?
 
Have not checked for rust --- however, PO said tank was new (1 year old) and it looks to be. Car starts easily and runs smoothly -- so don't think rust is the reason!!!
 
It might be interesting to see what is inside the one closest to the fuel tank...bust it open
 
My goal is to get this configured properly! Having three filters in line just doesn't make any sense to me. Any reason I wouldn't want to replace this whole set up (3 filters, 1 pump) with a single filter and upgraded new pump??? Then I can open up the first of three current filters for a look see.....
 
You need only one in line fuel filter, preferably before the fuel pump, and the filter should be clear plastic so you don't have to "bust it open" to see what has accumulated in it.
Bob
 
One filter although I do know some people who have sediment problems in the system add a second inbetween the pump and the carbs...
As far as the fuel pump if you do go electric instead of a mechanical which was originally installed, you have to be aware of the fuel pressure and hopefully add some sort of switch to turn off the pump in event of an accident with the ignition key still in the ON position. .
You'll probably get some useful guidance on the electric fuel pump....mine is mechanical
 
Rust flakes and assorted detritus in my new to me rehabbed galvanized tank are what got me to install a clear filter and replace it about 12 times. I also rocked the car, jacked up one side, and used a slurp gun with 6 feet of clear plactic hose to scive the crap off the bottom. Multiple times. I have a 7th degree black belt in solving the problem plaguing Aggie.
Bob
 
Here's some information you may find useful
Rubber fuel line from the tank to the pump is 5/16"
Rubber fuel line from the pump to the carbs is 1/4"
Keep those in mind when you are buying a filter and fuel lines
 
Copy that!!! Unless there are other recommendations, I am pretty sure I will go with a Facet Cube (FAC-40178) pump and Edelbrock 17303 Filter. Both are rated for E85 and at least one person has mounted pump in engine compartment like my current one is.

Thoughts???
 
I would go with a stock mechanical on the fuel pump. Some of those electric pumps have too much pressure and cause carb problems, like running rich and fuel pressure over powering the float bowl with too much pressure. If you go electric, find out the stock fuel pressure for a tr 6 and purchase a regulator.

All of those filters are an interesting fix for something. If the first one plugs, that is it; no gas will move. Perhaps all the fitters slow down the pressure and help the car run smooth.
 
One more point , there are a lot of really crappy fuel lines on the market. They will swell shut
in just a few years of driving. Or just crack. Only buy fuel injection rated fuel hose. (Unless you like side of
the road repairs.) The hose up at the tank is really critical as it can restrict flow to the OE pump.
Causes high speed starvation......
AND never place a filter ahead of the OE pump, they will NOT pull fuel !!
Mad dog
 
The mfr of one of my electric pumps recommended a mesh filter ahead of the pump to take out larger particles, like rust, that might interfere with the pump's valves. Then, I had a conventional filter after the pump. That strikes me as an intelligent approach.

The mesh filter has little pressure drop so it's OK ahead of the pump. The conventional filter should go after the pump, as it will introduce more pressure drop and it's more tolerable there. So, I can understand two filters, but three? All ahead of the pump? And, the one that screws into the pump is probably the mesh filter, if one exists, and it is after the conventional filters, where it will do no good. Methinks some PO was not real clear on the concept.
 
Steve, I agree with you totally!!!! Makes no sense to me and could be a source of problem in future -- that is why I want to replace this Christmas tree of parts with something that makes sense.

1. It appears that most electric pumps are placed close to the gas tank -- is it OK to have one mounted on the DS fender well? As I said, the cars starts quickly and runs well now.

2. I plan to use the following replacements:
Facet Cube (FAC-40104, 1.5-4 psi) pump. This pump comes with inlet filter (70 micron)
Dorman 55241 Fuel Filter (put this at output of pump)

3. Do you think a pressure regulator is required if Facet Cube is rated at 1.5 to 4 psi?

Appreciate your sage insight and advice!!!

Joe Morgan
 
The real issue is that the factory did NOT see fit to install an intank screen as was common
in other LBC's. I was just inspecting one on a bugeye.(with envy)
I personally would have been spared a ton of grief (from the leaf in the tank disaster).
Mad dog
 
I have run replaceable filters ahead of mechanical fuel pumps for 60 years. On my current TR3, I have run the system that way for 12 years. No problem. A mechanical pump probably must, as a matter of physics, pull as much as it pushes, but that doesn't matter. As long as the volume to the float bowls is adequate, whether the output could be higher shouldn't matter.
Bob
 
AggieTR6 said:
Steve, I agree with you totally!!!! Makes no sense to me and could be a source of problem in future -- that is why I want to replace this Christmas tree of parts with something that makes sense.

1. It appears that most electric pumps are placed close to the gas tank -- is it OK to have one mounted on the DS fender well? As I said, the cars starts quickly and runs well now.

2. I plan to use the following replacements:
Facet Cube (FAC-40104, 1.5-4 psi) pump. This pump comes with inlet filter (70 micron)
Dorman 55241 Fuel Filter (put this at output of pump)

3. Do you think a pressure regulator is required if Facet Cube is rated at 1.5 to 4 psi?

Appreciate your sage insight and advice!!!

Joe Morgan
Click to expand...
I've done it both ways. I had a Bugeye Sprite for a while with the 1-4 PSI Facet pump; I measured it at about 3 PSI and it did fine, no regulator. The problem with that approach is the 1-4 PSI spec; if you get a pump with 4 PSI output, that's probably too much.

My solution to that dilemma is a higher pressure pump with a regulator. The Holley regulator is a good unit, not particularly expensive. Holley makes two versions, one with lower pressure, so I use that. In the TR and my Porsche 912, I use pumps with about 6 PSI output and regulate it down to about 2 PSI. I suspect that the regulator works better with a modest pressure drop across it and the higher output pressure might help a little to prevent fuel boiling, a problem with modern fuels. Anal-retentive as I am, I have pressure gauges connected to the regulator outputs on both cars.

Most pumps these days do not have to be protected from the elements, but it's best not to tempt fate too much. The wheel well might be OK if you can avoid spray of water and debris. Mine is on the back wall of the passenger compartment, slightly shielded and not in the line of fire from the rear wheels.
 
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