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TR4/4A Front Brakes - Basics for Pads

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scottkilpatrick

scottkilpatrick

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Hi All, I am doing a full brake inspection on my new 62 TR4 as I don't know when they were last done prior to buying and they feel odd. So front brakes first and I am a newbie with brakes.

It appears these are newer calipers and there is NO leaking from the flex lines but I am probably gonna replace them with steel ones while I have the wheel off.

Question: I was gonna swap out the pads but to me they look like they still have a lot of meat left...appears about 3/8" thickness. Can you tell usually if they have sufficient life left by looking or do you need to pull off the caliper and pull them out? Opinions. Pics below of passenger side and drivers side.

Also I thought wheel cylinders were for all wheels but I think they are only on the rear. Can someone confirm? Thanks Everyone

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I agree that the calipers appear to be at least restored. The pads look to be really close to original thickness. What you see on the front is all that should be there. A close look at the condition of the rubber boots would verify if the restoration is recent. Older rubber boots would be dirty and maybe even cracked.
No wheel cylinders on the front. Only with the rear drum brakes.

Your calipers are a type used on a TR3. Can you tell tell us what is the commission number of your car? Should not be a problem except when ordering replacement parts.
Charley
 
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Thanks Charleyf...the calipers look replaced to me...like not original - see pics.

The boots - if these are the ones you are speaking of - don't look brand new but I have inspected them and they are not ripped or super old.

Commission number - not sure which number that is but i shot both engine and vin tag...i think its early 62 from my research. thanks again for all the info. Do you think these calipers are ok for this car? There is no leaking and the rotors look in good condition - very smooth. Hopefully this mean good luck with the front brakes and maybe I only focus on the rear brakes.

Opinions - Flex Line Hoses...should I replace these if they are not leaking? Im hesitating because they are not cheap and so maybe i just keep an eye on them. they seem fine to me

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Just a little more information tells a lot. Your car is an early TR4 which came with the TR3 style calipers. Up through CT 4689. This is something to keep in mind when ordering any parts. Some parts were carried over from the previous model ( TR3) and later changed after the new model( TR4) came out.
The calipers do appear to be refreshed. The rubber boots that I was referring to are not the ones in your pictures ( which are the steering rack boots) but rather the ones that are between the actual brake pad and the caliper body. You only get a small look at them as they stick out only about 1/8" from the caliper.
Take a close look at the brake lines on the car. If they are clean and look new they likely are recently replaced. Additionally you may be able to see a date printed in white on the rubber line. I continue to use the standard rubber lines on my cars. That includes about 40 years of driving TRs with no failures.
Your commission number is the one on the black plate.
As clean as your engine looks I would guess that there has been recent work completed. It would be very helpful to you to find out just what all was done. Then you will not be wondering if you should be concerning yourself with any upgrades or restorations.
Best of luck with your TR4. May you have many enjoyable miles ahead.
Charley
 
I agree with Charley, the front brakes look new. I find on these cars the rear brakes need to be adjusted tight to the drum so there is very little play to make the pedal hard. When they are adjusted, I like to hear a little drag from shoe on the drum. The rear shoes are adjustable and the little square adjuster is often difficult to move and last turn of adjustment is most difficult. The adjusting square moves a cam that has a high spot then drops down. They make a special wrench for adjusting the brakes. I think it is a ÂĽ inch square, maybe 5/16. Be careful not to leave the adjustment on the high spot of the cam. You will see when you move it around. Clockwise tightens the brakes. This also tightens up the E-brake.

Steve
 
Silly question for the rear brakes:

I have the e brake on to keep the wheels from spinning - is there a trick to getting off the four lug nuts pictured here - i want to get the drum off on each side to examine the wheel cylinder and the shoes but they seem pretty tight - is it just muscle with a ratchet?
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If the wheel still turns have a helper push the brake pedal -hard!
Otherwise a socket and if necessary a cheater bar.
They should only be about 50-60 lbs. torque ( for when you put them back on).
Charley
 
Scott, welcome to a new world of "what should I do" You have a very early car and the factory
used any and all leftover bits and bobs to clear out the bins.
JUNK your Tr3 brakes! (IMHO) The Tr4 calipers are not terribly $. But first decide if you will ever
need /want the good stuff.(autocross ,ralleys). I am a firm believer in Wilwood brakes. for a few more $$
you have the best and will ,in todays traffic, need them sooner than you suspect .
The discs need to have the latter diameter( machined down) the new calipers will then bolt on.
This will save 12 pounds per wheel of un-sprung weight and give you 4 pistons of stopping power.
Then you can pick the pads that best suit your driving needs.
Your splines have ,doubtlessly nuts Loctited in place, they will require some effort. Don't forget
to do this on re-assembly.
Mad dog
 
On way is to have impact wrench and use that. An impact wrench hits with a force that spins the nut and not the wheel.

Steve
 
Hamish, my contention is that the early 15 lbs each calipers should go in the bin. If you spend $ on brakes,
compare the costs of refurbished later brakes to Wilwoods . Then figure in what your driving needs will
demand for safety. I have Wilwoods on my 59 as it is capable of 100mph in 3rd gear(5speed Supra trans)
Just feels good to have the extra margin....
Mad dog
 
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