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T-Series Puff of blue smoke on startup
- Thread starter PAUL161
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OP
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Tom, I hope that's correct, to my knowledge the seals are the original O ring type, no mention that the seals were of another type when the engine was rebuilt. I'll put some oil in the stem washers and see how long it takes for the oil to leak down past the collets. I'm not worried about the situation, so no big rush to solve the problem during the driving season, I'll wait until she's put to bed for the winter and replace them. Thanks for your comment. PJ
OP
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Last night I checked the valve seals for leakage. Found the 1-2-& 3 will leak down overnight to minimum oil in the upper washer, and number 8 will leak down to zero in 2 hours. 4-5-6 & 7 don't leak down at all. Naturally, I'll replace all the seals. I'll order 2 sets in case one gets damaged during installation. Here's a picture of 1-2-and 3 in the morning the second picture is number 8 after 1 hour. The rest still have oil in the washers after 3 days of setting. Number 8 is the prime culprit for the smoke after start-up after a short time! PJ
OP
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Exhaust and intake use the same O rings. I'm one to stick with what the factory installed. Not saying other options aren't as good, but why change after all these years. I don't experiment with a 65-year-old engine. Only a guess, but I would venture a guess that 95% of these engines have the original design seals, quite a testament to the factory's original design!
OP
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So instead of paying $100 for a tool and not being sure it would work, I made my own for free!!
PJ
XJtom
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looks good, did something similar about 45 years ago and still have it, welded a 1/2" round bar on it to leaver, needed a multi fit for various size motors....are you air compressing the cylinders? ... still might be worth considering the valve stem caps if you have the problem again sooner than expected.
XJtom
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bush mechanics make the world crank over, i have a free library you might find something of interest there>>> www.jaguar-wiring-schematics.info
OP
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Two cylinders are done. I used the larger split soda straw method to get the seals over the valve stems with a generous amount of oil on the straw and stem, it works very well, and no seal damage! The collets are a little pain, but not much. Two cylinders are done as of this post. PJ
OP
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After 24 hours, zero oil leak down. 
Two of the washers were stuck, so I had to raise the cylinder pressure to 100 lbs, did a little tapping with a very small brass hammer and they popped loose. Very easy job. The rocker tower shims shown are .020 to give a better profile for the rocker riding on the valve stem with the Crane cam. PJ
Two of the washers were stuck, so I had to raise the cylinder pressure to 100 lbs, did a little tapping with a very small brass hammer and they popped loose. Very easy job. The rocker tower shims shown are .020 to give a better profile for the rocker riding on the valve stem with the Crane cam. PJ
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OP
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Also, through a friend in Tasmania, I found out that the O rings I removed were not the correct O rings for my engine! They are square-edged
and not round as required! They will work for a short time but will eventually leak! New ones from Moss, as on the soda straw being installed are correct. PJ
