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Healey Won't Start - No Spark

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bigmac3315

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Our Austin Healey was running fine 5 days ago. We parked it and now it won't start. The fuel pump clicks when I turn the ignition, there is fuel in the inline filter and the engine turns over fine, just no spark. I do have the automatic choke system. Any suggestions?
 
Check the wire from the Kill switch to the coil
It was designed to prevent theft ;-)
 
Editor_Reid said:
I think you'll find voluminous reading on this subject in the archives, but if you want to try a couple of easy fixes first, try:

1. Change the rotor.
2. Change the coil.

Call me in the morning.
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Thank you Reid, I will do some research thru the archives and hope that it is something simple. The coil is less than a year old so I certainly hope it's not that but it is strange to me how it was running like a champ last week and now....
 
bigmac3315 said:
Thank you Reid, I will do some research thru the archives and hope that it is something simple. The coil is less than a year old so I certainly hope it's not that but it is strange to me how it was running like a champ last week and now....
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Does the rotor have a rivet in the arm? They are prone to sudden failure.

Do you have points or electronic ignition?
 
Did you possibly leave the ignition turned on and have fried the electronic ignition module ?
 
bigmac3315 said:
I haven’t left the ignition on any longer than a couple minutes. I hope that wouldn’t do it.
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What make of ignition system are you using
 
Have you tried removing the small white wire from the battery isolator switch ?
 
bigmac3315 said:
I have an electronic ignition and the rotor does have a rivet in the arm.
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The rotors with rivets are the most prone to failure. The red(ish) ones with no rivet are supposed to be the best (I use one). I don't see one listed for a 3000 listed on Moss' website, but others may have one. An example is on AH Spares website. You might look for a better price, though.
 
If You have Pertronix ignition, They fry in about 45 seconds if the key is left on. The module will look burned and bubbled. They also don't like some types of ignition wires. The best mod I did to My Pertronix was have My distributor re-built and re-curved by Advance Dist. and return to a points system.
 
I learned the hard way how to burn out a coil in 30 seconds.

Be sure and unplug the POS wire on the coil if you have to do and testing without the engine running.

I've also had a new coil burn out on the road so now I carry an extra coil "just because...".

I made patterns for the straps for the coils with lightweight cardboard then bent them from the metal.
They are based on the original strap.

Peter C.
 

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Thanks everyone. It does appear that it is the coil, the multimeter is showing no reading at all. I have an order in and will update once installed.
 
NutmegCT said:
How 'bout just swapping in another coil as a test?

(also, what resistance setting did you have the multimeter on?)
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Swapping out is the way to go to test a coil.
I was unable to get my engine to run after 2 weeks and had to resort to the local Healey mechanic.
He solved the problem by replacing my brand new coil with one he pulled out of the trash (for $35, but it worked).
See the coil on the left in the photos.
FYI Note:
- The LUCAS DLB-101 Coil on the right has no logo and came in a plain box.
I won't ever buy this one again.
- The gold coil is a LUCAS Sports Coil but has a very sketchy logo but came in a green and white box with LUCAS branding ?????
- The one on the left that's covered with oil and grease is a working Coil and has the LUCAS logo and "MADE IN ENGLAND" on it.
 

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FWIW, my BJ8 has the same coil as Pete's 'OK' one. It's original AFAIK--I bought the car @64K miles--and now has 210K miles on it (and a couple dents in it). Those things are indestructible.
 
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I had a similar issue. Turned out that the leg of the points assembly that rides on the distributer cam broke off.
 
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