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TR2/3/3A So many newbie questions any help is appreciated!

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Ckadams00

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Hello everyone, so many random question, spent a day off in the sun going over this car I'm restoring (body on). I thought it might be better to list them here rather than gum up the site with too many threads. Any suggestions or input you have is sincerely appreciated, really trying to learn about this car.

(1962 TR3B TCF 794L)

1. I'm rebuilding all the interior trim pieces. Originals were hardboard - why was this? More pliable or more resistant to moisture or cheaper? Would thin plywood be better or stick with hardboard?

2. Before I reach out to local upholstery shops is there a vinyl anyone recommends? What about the thin padding for the doors and wheel wells, coming up blank on those.

3. The wheel wells are the only interior part that requires a sewn seam. Suggestions? Should I have an upholstery place do this or is there a secret DIY I'm unaware of? Not doing piping.

4. There are a lot of deep scratches on this car down to the metal with surface rust. Looking for some direction here. I can sand it down and prime, then the car is going to look like crap. Or leave the surface rust/scratches? It will be a long while before I can afford to repaint this car, all y money is going into getting it drivable. See photo.

5. The engine is out and being rebuilt. Suggestions on things I can/should do in the engine compartment? I don't want to start removing things that will make the mechanics job harder when the engine is re-installed, but there are a lot of items to address - engine mounts? Master cylinders? Lots of things we're going to have to repair/replace - if there are things I can be doing I'd like to.

6. Trim: On the door trim pieces do the round end caps come out? The vinyl is wrapped around it, so I assume so, but I don't see how to remove the caps?

7. Front supension (with body on) - is there anyone who has a walkthrough? I have some experience with brakes/pads rotors - I know all the rubber needs to be replaced. Really love to tackle this with the engine out but wary of just starting to remove parts without knowing I'm being thorough.

8. I need to replace the front 30% of the floor pans. It seems to me buying replacement pans and then cutting the bad parts to fit would be MUCH easier and MUCH better than trying to replace the entire pans. The last 50-60% of the pans I have are solid as are the rockers and inner/outer sills. I don't want to make more work for myself than I need nor do I want to cut out good metal. Any advice on this would really be appreciated. I'm not 100% on how they meet up in the front (I think under the bulkhead?) I am a beginner welder but feel confident I can tackle this. It seems more of a patch job than anything and if I order replacement floors then the flanges are in and it should be pretty straightforward. Replacing the fulls pans seems like a much bigger job and we're headed into cold weather. . . .

Anything else I should consider? Engine out, Trans out, gas tank and radiator sent to shop for inspection.

I have limited funds, don't plan on worrying about cosmetics until later. Want a safe and drivable car. I really appreciate you guys and your experience.
 

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Welcome to RESTORATION 101. start easy things in your wheel house.
1- Vinyl look for marine Vinyl and light padding some made from milk bottles they do not hold moisture. ask for more information if can not fine any
2-fender well need not be beaded cut over size to apox shape double stich to back side and glue contact cement some stretch can be done and any sewing Machine can do the job look for thread rated at 60 lbs.
3-Paint and scratches go on-line to TouchupDirect 855-600-8160 or help@touchupdriect.com If you car is still OEM they have the code for the color or a close match see kits for touch ups.
4- Engine bay use same color as touch up in rattle can use tin foil to cover items not painted
5-Brakes etc You Tube
6- floor pans remove only as needed or complete Look at Eastwood on line for tools cleaners and shop help.
7- Gas tank clean and seal See Eastwood for kit easy to do
8-And last enjoy doing it your self the forum is here and so is the Madflyer
 
8)
Buy the floor panels and cut them where you need to. That is if the rest of the floor is truly solid.

7) The weight of the engine can help you when working on the front suspension. It can be done either way engine in or out. You will need a compressor to get the bottom pn bolts out A piece of 3/4" threaded rod would do.

6) Door end caps should just pry out They are pressed into the rubber capping material.

5) If I remember correctly the engine mounts should be bolted to the engine not the frame as the angle of the bolts will make alignment difficult if they are on the frame first.
Check the steering box for play. With the engine out makes it easier to work on the steering box.

4) Deep scratches could be attended to by carefully sanding just the rust then using a paint pen to cover it till a paint job can be done.

1, 2. 3) The Roadster Factory and Moss may sell bulk Vinyl. Check e bay as there are several people who do interiors. John Skinner in the UK is probable where a lot of the kits are made.

David
 
DavidApp said:
8)
Buy the floor panels and cut them where you need to. That is if the rest of the floor is truly solid.

7) The weight of the engine can help you when working on the front suspension. It can be done either way engine in or out. You will need a compressor to get the bottom pn bolts out A piece of 3/4" threaded rod would do.

6) Door end caps should just pry out They are pressed into the rubber capping material.

5) If I remember correctly the engine mounts should be bolted to the engine not the frame as the angle of the bolts will make alignment difficult if they are on the frame first.
Check the steering box for play. With the engine out makes it easier to work on the steering box.

4) Deep scratches could be attended to by carefully sanding just the rust then using a paint pen to cover it till a paint job can be done.

1, 2. 3) The Roadster Factory and Moss may sell bulk Vinyl. Check e bay as there are several people who do interiors. John Skinner in the UK is probable where a lot of the kits are made.

David
Click to expand...
Really appreciate it. All good suggestions.
 
I see you are getting a lot of responses, on both forums and in random order. I'm too old to follow! But, if you still have specific questions after the dust settles, I'd love to entertain a more reasonable number!?!
 
CJD said:
I see you are getting a lot of responses, on both forums and in random order. I'm too old to follow! But, if you still have specific questions after the dust settles, I'd love to entertain a more reasonable number!?!
Click to expand...
Thanks John - I'll try to be less random. It's a lot to process and I have limited time and resources so rather than attack it one system at a time I'm kind of everywhere right now. Appreciate hearing from you, I really enjoy learning from your posts.
 
While the engine is out, I would strip the engine bay and repaint it as new. Will save a lot of time and effort later.
 
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