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Carb Float Levers

Scot

Jedi Hopeful
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Guys... I was trying to diagnose a starting problem on my BJ8 and noticed a lot of flooding occurring out of the float bowls. I have never had these apart, but noticed the 3 prongs on the float levers attaching end were bent up and one of the levers was even installed upside down! I don't think they are the original float levers. My question is, should these be attached to allow the lever to move full motion? If it did, it would seem like the needles would be free to fall out when fully open.

The other option is to allow only limited movement of the lever by extending the middle prong so it stops on the small metal bar in the middle. It's a wonder these things worked in my car at all!

The manuals depict only the original levers configuration. Any help appreciated!
 

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Check the SU site / technical section


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It's been a while since I've had my BJ8's carb float lids off, but to the best of my recollection yours are installed correctly. Yes, when held correct side up, the levers will hang just prior to the angle at which the needles will drop out, about 45deg from horizontal (the center tang should prevent that; i.e. you should not be able to 'flip' the lever completely, as in the bottom lid in the first photo). The part of the lever that contacts the needles should be flat, adjustments should be made at the bends on either side of the flat part, mostly at the 'hinge' side. Your levers look correct, but someone has ham-fisted them, probably to get the correct nominal setting--5/16" or 7/16", I can never remember without checking the manual and I think it varies with carb model--without knowing or caring why or how this should be done. Yours are probably salvageable if you work them carefully with needle-nose pliers, but if any doubt buy new ones. Car will run OK as long as float level is correct, but yours could risk jamming the needles in the valve.
 
Thank you Bob and Big Green both very helpful! Interesting, that before I took the photos I flipped one of the levers back to the correct way. Before, it was fork tines down and this was causing that float bowl to fill about an inch lower than the other one. I'm wondering what effect,if any,it would have on performance,starting, etc? The car actually seem to run OK albeit hard starting sometimes!
 
having the lever flipped so that the fuel level is an inch lower will have some effect, but it may not be noticeable. Before putting my car away for a long time, I'll turn the fuel pump off and let the engine drain the fuel bowls while idling. It seems to idle normally until just before running out.
 
Yeah John my only thought would be the heat in the engine compartment which out cars are known for. Would a partially full bowl be more sensitive to heat than a full one while running hot in the Summer? I do have an issue with hard starting when the engine is hot vice firing up right away when cold! Never solved it. Can't be sure until I get this all back together.
 
A partially full bowl will be more susceptible to heat in the Summer because of the smaller volume. According to tests run at the University of Manchester (UK) main issue with hot starting is modern fuels are more volatile than fuels when these cars were new.
 
You have Gross jets installed. These are excellent but sometime prone to sticking with debris from perished fuel lines, gaskets, stuff from tank. Check for proper operation (full open and close). Clean if needed. They are also adjustable by inserting / stacking small ring gaskets at base.
 
U Might want to read Glemons earlier report below :

SU Carb question float level/leaner/richer​

 
 
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