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General Tech Water Wetter, does it work?

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GTP1960

GTP1960

Jedi Knight
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Any opinions about Redline Water wetter?
it claims it can lower operating temperatures by as much as 20f, which seems far fetched to me, but the label also claims to protect cast iron & aluminum from corrosion. (all that for $11......?)

Your input is appreciated.

best regards,

Guy
 
I've tried it a couple of times, when I was having overheating problems. Never could tell that it made any difference. OTOH, Ken Gillanders once wrote of someone that was having overheating problems on the race track, and adding WW helped enough to get him through the race without blowing clouds of steam. So maybe it helps sometimes, depending on why you're overheating.

Something to watch out for, the early formulation did not include anti-corrosion agents. That was a long time ago, so it's not likely you'd find any now, but I'd be suspicious of a "barn find".

As I recall, their chart showed that running straight water instead of 50/50 would make a bigger difference than adding WW. But they claim the WW still improved both straight water and 50/50.
 
We use it with distilled water in our z/28 Pirelli world challenge race cars. It's a decent product that increases surface tension and will lower temps somewhat. I run it just about everything I own anymore. Seems to drop on-track temps in my own m3 slightly. The tr4 still overheats in traffic though. :smile:
 
I have also used WW a few times. As stated, it is not a magic cure for overheating. If you are in city traffic, temperature drop is hard to judge. The reason I don't run the stuff more is that you are supposed to get the greatest benefit from it if you mix it with water, not anti-freeze. I know your profile says you are in SC. However, we still have our freezes just north of you in NC so I am only comfortable with WW during the summer months.
 
Red Line has a pretty good / honest write up here: https://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/WaterWetter Tech Info.pdf

My interpretation (subject to error... don't listen without verifying :smile:) is that water wetter works in cases where steam is present. It reduces the surface tension, thereby allowing the steam bubble to "pop". If no steam bubbles are present, there seems to be no "clear" advantage.

So I guess the question is: How common are steam bubbles in a cooling system? How prevalent?
 
Agree with most everything that's been said, if you have a major cooling issue something isn't right and needs to be replaced, boiled out, or repaired. I have used the stuff and unscientifically, I felt it might give you a 5-10 degree F temp reduction at best.
 
Thanks fellas,

I don't have a serious problem. In fact I may not even have a problem, yet.

after warm up the temp gauge is pegged right before the mark between 185 & 230.
(i assume that is about 200 dg.)
A laser thermostat reading at the T housing reads approx 190-198.
the temp. is stable, has not steamed or boiled, even in stop & go.
(no noticeable temp. reduction, at the gauge, at prolonged easy road speed)
However I would like to bring it down to the 185-190 range, on general principle.

cooling system consist of:
aluminum rad.
air flow deflector
12" puller on thermo control
6 vane water pump
bellows thermostat.

Thanks again for your input.
 
If you aren't seeing the temperature vary with conditions, then it is being controlled by the thermostat (as it should be). A new thermostat would probably bring down the temp just a bit.
 
A bellows type thermostat can be affected by excessive radiator pressure.
Check your radiator cap pressure, should be 4 PSI for Tr3, 7 PSI for Tr4.

M.
 
Merlin63Tr4 said:
A bellows type thermostat can be affected by excessive radiator pressure.
Check your radiator cap pressure, should be 4 PSI for Tr3, 7 PSI for Tr4.

M.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what my cap psi is.
It's unmarked & came with the eBay Chinese aluminum radiator. I suspect it's high pressure since most Asian cars are.
it doesn't even look like a standard size cap.

i better find a correct replacement ASAP.
 
Rad caps came in different reaches as well as PSI.
The original Tr3 rad called for a 1" reach cap, the Tr4 was 3/4".
Make sure you measure your Chinese radiator to figure the depth (reach) cap it requires.

M.
 
Vintage Food Service Advertising Can by TheOldDrugStore on Etsy.jpg I add it with a can of this product..... (sorry couldn't resist)
 
Merlin63Tr4 said:
Rad caps came in different reaches as well as PSI.
The original Tr3 rad called for a 1" reach cap, the Tr4 was 3/4".
Make sure you measure your Chinese radiator to figure the depth (reach) cap it requires.

M.
Click to expand...
I believe early TR4 also used a 1" reach cap.

But no matter, the important part is be sure what you have and get a cap that fits. It's not obvious when the cap is wrong, but if you put a 3/4 cap on a 1" radiator, it won't hold any pressure at all (which reduces cooling capacity). And, if you put a 1" cap on a 3/4" radiator, the pressure will go way too high.

One of our local club members forgot that his radiator had been converted to 3/4 (as mine has) and installed a 1" cap on it. His upper radiator hose would blow up like a balloon! (Before it burst, of course.)
 
Finding a low pressure radiator cap for the after market aluminum radiator has proven to be a challenge.
Biggest pain is finding detailed descriptions of what's out there. The parts stores go by vehicles OEM, exclusively, so if your dealing with after market, that is different from OEM, they are no help.
(even contacting Stant, who seems to make most of the caps out there was very little help.)

down to to gum shoe work.

anyone know of a "radiator caps R us" kinda place?
 
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