• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A Using Drill to Spin Oil Pump Shaft

Share this page

KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Will I harm anything whirling that shaft with a half inch electric drill? I wouldn't think, but I've got no idea the relative rpms there. thx
 
KVH, I believe that is the recommended why to lub a new engine before starting.

Wayne
 
In reverse...
 
I think a 1/2 inch drill is OK. I'd prefer a variable speed but use what you've got. Remember to use a shaft the same size as the oil pump drive shaft. (I have used an old shaft.) However, in my opinion it is much simpler and just as effective to spin the engine with the starter, with the plugs removed.
Tom
 
I couldn't get pressure on my TR250 spinning with the starter (first time I experienced this after a rebuild.) The spinning the pump with a drill trick worked great. I use a cordless drill with less power/rpm than a corded unit. Don't know what the rpm or torque would break but just seemed a little more appropriate for the job to me.
 
glemon said:
I couldn't get pressure on my TR250 spinning with the starter (first time I experienced this after a rebuild.) The spinning the pump with a drill trick worked great. I use a cordless drill with less power/rpm than a corded unit. Don't know what the rpm or torque would break but just seemed a little more appropriate for the job to me.
Click to expand...

Yes I should have thought of that. I used a variable speed 1/2 inch with a hose on the oil pump shaft. It seemed to work great, with 50lbs pretty fast. I'm close to start up. It better not explode. Did I torque that bolt, add the washer to the tensioner post, torque the crank? Are the piston pins held by circlips? Are the rods facing the right way? Is the head gasket on correctly? I'll know in a bit.
 
KVH said:
Yes I should have thought of that. I used a variable speed 1/2 inch with a hose on the oil pump shaft. It seemed to work great, with 50lbs pretty fast. I'm close to start up. It better not explode. Did I torque that bolt, add the washer to the tensioner post, torque the crank? Are the piston pins held by circlips? Are the rods facing the right way? Is the head gasket on correctly? I'll know in a bit.
Click to expand...

Fingers crossed! :smile:

Scott
 
I hope that you installed the oil rings the correct way.
I learned the hard way.
I am sure that you will be fine.
 
I was careful on the rings. The bottom oil ring still has me worried. The set I did not use had a nice color code to be sure I'd installed correctly, but the set I used did not. What did you do wrong?
 
The first engine rebuild I ever did was my old TR4a, I did put the connecting rods on the wrong way. When I went to put it back together I noticed the offset, which I had not made note of on dissassemly. None of my manuals helped, there was no internet. I guessed and put them on wrong. If you try to spin the engine by hand you will figure the problem out pretty quickly.....it won't make a full revolution without the rods hitting the block.

It was corrected before any damage was done.
 
Back
Top