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TR2/3/3A Robbins top, problem with the fit

RC64

Jedi Hopeful
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I'm close to being finished with the installation of a new Robbins top on my TR-3a. It took awhile and some time in the afternoon sun to get the frame adjusted right so that it was aligned fairly close to the seams. Here's a wide angle shot.

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However, there is one 'small' problem. The outboard front corners on both sides don't extend any where near far enough for a Tenex fitting to engage the nipple on the windscreen. I've heated and stretched and tugged to no avail. It's just not going to reach. Here's what I'm looking at.

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The last one is with the frame down. It doesn't look like it in the photo, but I'm leaning into it pretty good to get it that far. Even in the hot sun I can't get it much farther. With that much tension I'd be afraid to try to mount a fitting anyway.

Anyone else run into this problem? Any suggestions? I can run with it like that but it would be nice to have all fasteners mounted. The top came with some extra fabric so I'm thinking I might have to have top shop modify it a bit. Anyone have any success with that approach?

Rick...
 

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Go ahead and fit the outside fastners snug with the top down. As you have done before, let the top get hot in the sun and then put it up with all the w/s fastners in place . It should work. TR3 tops kinda pop when you push the frame into place.

Marv
 
Good point! I'll have to give that a try. I've noticed that it is easier to attach the Tenex on the front first and then get a good grip to pull the top tight to fasten the LTDs in the rear. Also, should I be at all concerned about pressure on the top of windscreen itself?

I'm also debating whether or not to try to use that extra flap on the front that is supposed to serve as a rain barrier. The top is already so tight coming over the seal on the top of the windscreen I can't imagine that it would leak much. Besides, I don't know if I'll be able to get the Tenex to fasten securely. I'm not likely to be doing much driving in the rain so I've thought about just getting rid of that flap. Any thoughts?

Rick...


Rick...
 
I had the same issues with mine. It could have been made with a bit more material , I had to remove the rubber seal along the top of the windshield and could not use the flap .
 
Like Marv says...install the top first, then pop the "knee" in the sticks into place.

It's too late at this stage, but most of us turn the rear lift a dots sideways to put the dot outboard. It makes installation easier and also gives an extra 1/4"...which doesn't sound like much, but in top installs that's a mile!
 
I had the same issues with mine. It could have been made with a bit more material , I had to remove the rubber seal along the top of the windshield and could not use the flap .

Maybe the flap would work if that seal wasn't installed. Mine is so tight over the seal I can see it leaking anyway. Did you have any concern about the tension on the top of the windscreen?

Rick...
 
Like Marv says...install the top first, then pop the "knee" in the sticks into place.

That's the way I've been doing it. I"d never be able to get it on otherwise. In fact, when I set up the frame, I left the rear brace free floating. Once the middle and forward braces are in place, and the 'knee' is popped in place, I slide the rear brace in place under the seam and it tightens the top up very nicely. I may end up securing it to the web after the top stretches out a little.

When I saw the discussion on the sideways mounting of the LTDs I didn't think the little difference would matter that much. Guess I should have listened. Oh well... We should still have some more warm sunny days so I'll give Marv's suggestion a try.

Rick...
 
I usually roll the flap back over and tuck it in on itself. After the top stretches more you may be able to refit the flap under the front tentax fastners. Even then its going to be tough fitting two layes of material on the tentax.

marv
 
I usually roll the flap back over and tuck it in on itself. After the top stretches more you may be able to refit the flap under the front tentax fastners. Even then its going to be tough fitting two layes of material on the tentax.

Once again, a good idea. In fact, I might be able to use some of the sticky back velcro that I often use on my R/C planes to help secure the flap in place out of the way.

Rick...
 
Marv...

I took a look at the flap today and now see exactly what you were talking about. It tucks back up against the seal on the top of the windscreen very nicely. Completely out of the way. No need for any velcro or anything else to hold it there. No need to even consider removing the flap.

Rick...
 
I have a Robbins top that I bought from Roadster Factory in 1989. I put all the snaps in place and it has been fine ever since. But I must admit that my top has only been up for about 3,000 miles in the last 25 years with 113,000 miles having been driven,

When you get it installed, you will find that if you only drive you TR on sunny days, your top will remain in the "boot" as mine has over these last 25 years.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A
 
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