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Brakes pull to left - especially when cold. Where to start???

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Chet Zerlin

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Hello all. My recently acquired 100-6 has pulled to the left when braking ever since I got it and I'm now ready to tackle the problem. When cold (first starting to drive): pushing on the brake causes the car to pull aggressively to the left and if pushed hard enough will lock up the left front tire (no lock up on the right front at all). After getting the brakes more up to temperature it no longer locks the tire but the car still pulls aggressively to the left - to the point that I have to be ready to steer to the right whenever I push on the brakes to be ready to compensate.

I also noticed that the right front tire has worn significantly on the outer tread area (camber adjustment needed?) and I mention that in case there might be something useful there in diagnosing the braking issue. All other tires have normal tread wear.

I would really appreciate any suggestions/recommendations on where to start my examination of my braking system and what might be the underlying problem(s).

Thanks!

Chet
 
Chet Zerlin said:
Hello all. My recently acquired 100-6 has pulled to the left when braking ever since I got it and I'm now ready to tackle the problem. When cold (first starting to drive): pushing on the brake causes the car to pull aggressively to the left and if pushed hard enough will lock up the left front tire (no lock up on the right front at all). After getting the brakes more up to temperature it no longer locks the tire but the car still pulls aggressively to the left - to the point that I have to be ready to steer to the right whenever I push on the brakes to be ready to compensate.

I also noticed that the right front tire has worn significantly on the outer tread area (camber adjustment needed?) and I mention that in case there might be something useful there in diagnosing the braking issue. All other tires have normal tread wear.

I would really appreciate any suggestions/recommendations on where to start my examination of my braking system and what might be the underlying problem(s).

Thanks!

Chet
Click to expand...

Make sure the RIGHT caliper even works then bleed the entire system. From there You can start tracking issues
 
Also check the rubber brake lines for deterioration if old.
 
Since it's a 100-6 it probably has front drums.

Suggest remove front drums and see if left side cylinder(s) have leaked onto shoes, causing grabbing. Maybe the front right isn't stopping at all. With front end off ground, have Mrs. Assistant apply light brake pressure and see if the right wheel drags at all. Make sure both sides are adjusted. If no leakage onto shoes or obvious damage, replace hoses as maybe one of them is collapsing internally, causing brake lockup.

Look for frame damage, which could also explain tire wear.
 
An inspection is in order, first of all, or you'll be guessing at each turn. Pulling to the left, would indicate no braking power on the right side of the axle. Seems to me, that if the RH side cylinders (there are two per front brake, and a single cylinder at each rear wheel) were leaking, then the fluid would be "greasing" the brake shoes.

So get a look inside, it'll be worth the time spent__not really a big deal__and then base your next step on what you find. If everything looks good, then great!

Before you put it back together, study and work the adjustments__one per front brake shoe/two per side__so you know what to do when it's back together and you can't see what's going on in there (you have to do it by feel).

Good point about checking/replacing the rubber hoses! I'd actually recommend a departure from originality, and go with a good (DOT approved) set of Teflon/braided stainless steel hoses (on my own 100/6, it was a noticeable improvement in pedal feel, and less travel required for a given stop).

Good luck, and we're here if you run into a hurdle.
 
The solution is to convert to 3000 disc brakes. I have a set of factory adaptor plates, brake line brackets and calipers for sale. If interested... send me a PM.
 
With the drums off and somebody else pushing on the brake pedal you should be able to see the wheel cylinders moving the shoes out . When the pedal is released if all is ok , the shoes will return immediately. If you've had a leaking front wheel cylinder replace the shoes as if they are contaminated with brake fluid they cannot be cleaned of it and will cause a more aggressive brake action.
 
If it is pulling that severely it is likely a brake system problem but that does not explain the abnormal tire wear. You also need to check the alignment which could be an adjustment or improperly repaired frame or suspension damage.
 
Just done this job on a BJ8. If you're going to get dirty checking your brakes may as well change those hoses regardless as they have been on way too long,,, haven't they, do the back one as well.

You can't really tell the condition of the hoses until you commit to cutting them. The hole for the brake fluid is likely swollen causing it to close, usually at the point 1" - 2" from where it mounts to the frame as this is the point where is bends the most.

I cut both sides in this area, one leaked fluid straight away the other didn't and that was why the car pulled to one side.
 
busybrit said:
Just done this job on a BJ8. If you're going to get dirty checking your brakes may as well change those hoses regardless as they have been on way too long,,, haven't they, do the back one as well.

You can't really tell the condition of the hoses until you commit to cutting them. The hole for the brake fluid is likely swollen causing it to close, usually at the point 1" - 2" from where it mounts to the frame as this is the point where is bends the most.

I cut both sides in this area, one leaked fluid straight away the other didn't and that was why the car pulled to one side.
Click to expand...

Suggest upgrading to the braided stainless hoses as they result in improved pedal feel.
 
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