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TR2/3/3A paint tight spots

sp53

Yoda
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I got the other half blasted and primed. I basically used paint remover in the areas of no rust and the rusted and tight areas I sand blasted then went over the surface with the sand blaster. My blaster is not strong enough to take paint fall off all day long. The compressor starts to fad after a few minutes. Anyway, my question is should I put color on those hard to get spots now or weld the floors in and put the color on then. I recently got a small cup for the paint gun so getting in might be easier. When I look the welds and how they got paint up in those hard to get at places, I gain more respect for those craftsman in the day.
 
You are approaching this with much more thoroughness than the "craftsmen" who painted it in the day ! They just blew enough color on the cars to call them red or white , and anything on the insides was barely more than "overspray". You'll be fine.
 
Thats the reason thet rust as bad as they do. If the "craftsmen" put a thick coat of paint underneath and over places we wouldn't be replacing so much metal today.

marv
 
Yea, I have to admit that some of my spare tire slot is painted with a brush. My gun would not fit in there. But then, I have never used the spare in a TR3.

Jerry
 
For tight spots I go even smaller than a touch-up gun. I use a siphon feed, cheap air brush (like a Badger model 250). Without much effort you can reach into tight spots and get primer and/or color on difficult areas with minimal overspray. If there are areas that really will NEVER be seen, and they can be reached with a paint brush... I am not above getting primer and paint into the nooks and crannies using a disposable chip (or even acid) brush.
 
Thats the reason thet rust as bad as they do. If the "craftsmen" put a thick coat of paint underneath and over places we wouldn't be replacing so much metal today.

marv
Not only Triumph, of course. The original paint on the metal dash of my 73 Buick Apollo fades from Green top coat to gray primer just as it curls out of sight above your knees. Tom
 
Does your gun nosel adjust. I go with a needle spray for all the corners and seams. It will go a couple of feet with no problem. Just keep the pressure down on the trigger, then open up the nosel to a couple of inches until you can get to were a normal fan will work. This way you are really forcing paint into the crevasses for protection, if you get a run in these areaers and it gives you pain, wipe it off with the back of your hand and back off and spray it real quick, it will flow together. We are talking about places only you are going to see for the next 50 years, if you are lucky.

Wayne
 
I have used an air brush for small places and engine compartments, dashes and boots.
 
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