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securing heat shields

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robolab

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[FONT=&quot] How can I fasten the new heat shields in the engine compartment and under the main floor when the floor sheets were renewed and no nuts are riveted on the ordered sheets? Additional it was necessary to saw off the old screws in the compartment.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]In the catalogs of the relevant spare parts suppliers no corresponding rivet nuts are listed[/FONT].[FONT=&quot]

Does anyone have an idea? [/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 
robolab said:
How can I fasten the new heat shields in the engine compartment and under the main floor when the floor sheets were renewed and no nuts are riveted on the ordered sheets? Additional it was necessary to saw off the old screws in the compartment.

In the catalogs of the relevant spare parts suppliers no corresponding rivet nuts are listed.

Does anyone have an idea?
Click to expand...
Go to John Simms web site for info I posted doing the same thing "captive nuts". I used T-nuts that were 10-32 threads, flattened the 4 barbs and inserted them into very snug holes I drilled. From the exterior of the insulation panel you can't tell the difference.
www.healey6.com
 
I plan to silicone seal the T-nuts to insure water tightness.--- -That was neat maybe a bit of JB Weld will insure that the nuts do not loosen due to vibration and will also make them water proof
 
Nutserts (or Rivetnuts) would also be a suitable method: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=655

More: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=HARDNUTSERT

There may be cheaper sources for both the threaded inserts and the installation tools (like an industrial supplier) but I love these things and I think half the stuff on my Healey is held together with them. To a lesser degree, I've also used them to replace captive fasteners on BMWs.

Edit: found these too: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MS21059 These could be either epoxied or riveted into place.

MS21059.JPG
 
I visited the healey6.com site suggested by Patrick, and I must say it is an exceptional source of info. As the site offers a dimensioned drawing for a heat shield for installation above the muffler, it is suggesting that a proper heat-resistant material is available for do-it-your-selfers who may not choose to buy a pre-cut shield from one of the usual sources. Does anyone know of an appropriate material source? I should mention that the drawing, as I remember, did not list a thickness for the "asbestos" shield described at the site. Also, should the shield be mounted in full contact with the metal floor, or spaced away from it. Randy's suggested fastener would appear to assume some spacing between the shield and the floor.
 
RDKeysor said:
I visited the healey6.com site suggested by Patrick, and I must say it is an exceptional source of info. As the site offers a dimensioned drawing for a heat shield for installation above the muffler, it is suggesting that a proper heat-resistant material is available for do-it-your-selfers who may not choose to buy a pre-cut shield from one of the usual sources. Does anyone know of an appropriate material source? I should mention that the drawing, as I remember, did not list a thickness for the "asbestos" shield described at the site. Also, should the shield be mounted in full contact with the metal floor, or spaced away from it. Randy's suggested fastener would appear to assume some spacing between the shield and the floor.
Click to expand...
The material used now or should I say was used was Hardie Board. However, the color is now preprimed in a pastel yellow. I purchased my complete insulation kit from BCS, British Car Specialist, and it is a bright white similar to the original color and is from the UK and called Master Board. Spacing is important and usually a 1/4" will do as per the original insulation. Use 1 1/2" squares cut from the board and place a 1/2" hole in them. Glue them with adheisive to the insulation panel. Toms Import Toys has a Insualtion panel that attached above the muffler, below the florboard, that claims a significant amount of cockpit temperature reduction.
 
Patrick67BJ8 said:
Go to John Simms web site for info I posted doing the same thing "captive nuts". I used T-nuts that were 10-32 threads, flattened the 4 barbs and inserted them into very snug holes I drilled. From the exterior of the insulation panel you can't tell the difference.
www.healey6.com
Click to expand...

I'm in the process of collecting materials for the heat shield install and wondering what the advantage of captive nuts over using a fender washer, lock washer and a nut?
 
CessnaTPA said:
I'm in the process of collecting materials for the heat shield install and wondering what the advantage of captive nuts over using a fender washer, lock washer and a nut?
Click to expand...
Think of the nut on the inside of the floorboard(your method), instead of the outside(as original and recessed due to the 'hole" in the spacer insulation), and you'll see "bumps" in the carpet.
 
Patrick67BJ8 said:
Think of the nut on the inside of the floorboard(your method), instead of the outside(as original and recessed due to the 'hole" in the spacer insulation), and you'll see "bumps" in the carpet.
Click to expand...
That makes sense, plus less hardware to drop.
 
CessnaTPA said:
That makes sense, plus less hardware to drop.
Click to expand...
It's also a good time to have those thick washers zinc or cad plated to finish off the job nicely. I had mine cad plated & baked with a bunch of other parts so it was cost-effective. The screws should be the posi-drive ones if you're going for complete originality. I used the originals and had them cad plated but I also bought a stainless steel selection from BCS and I used most of those in the engine compartment to keep everything "shiny".
 
CessnaTPA said:
That makes sense, plus less hardware to drop.
Click to expand...
Don't forget one simple modification that increase a lot the driver comfort (feet temperature) AH project never insulate the pedals zone of LHD cars- one simple panel add, that are very useful
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...dMayJune2013?noredirect=1#5626281281308008706
I have used one piece of material that in Italy was named "Ceramic insulation" - Not dangerous and efficient. used on stove application
the place where the panel is placed is one of the more exposed at high temperature, see the thermal photo
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ALEY10061958?noredirect=1#5369038515512638146
also insulation ribbon was added to the exhausts pipes
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...dMayJune2013?noredirect=1#5717210010154678386
A commanded MOD for hot sun lands
 
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