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Moving a workshop!

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Tom, get a really big plastic bag and put your shed inside of it.... fill the bag with water and then try *THIS* method. You would be the coolest guy on the BCF when you post the video :encouragement:
 
Hi Judy - I have to move the workshop so I have enough room for the new garage. Very tight space, between my house, property line, and septic field.

Elliot - that video reminds me that I've got too much British car stuff on my mind. Take a look at this, the Rootes "Easidrive" magnetic field automatic transmission used on four cylinder Hillman cars in the 1950s. Very cool.

https://homepage.ntlworld.com/andymurkin/Hillman/Hillinfo/Easidrive.html
 
Interesting way of shifting Tom, but it's electrically dependent on Lucas which could be a problem.
 
Me thinks Tom is hijacking his own thread?
 
Judy - I'm just following the trend ...
 
You know we're gonna need pictures.
 
Pictures, crutches, aspirin, liniment, back therapy - all will be supplied!
 
Resurrecting an earlier topic:

I'm going to move my old workshop about 20 feet across the lawn.

Using 4x4s as the track, and rolling on steel pipe between workshop frame and track. Details are earlier in this thread.

But ... would it be better to use 2" diameter pipe for rolling? or 6" pipe?

Trying to decide which diameter would be easier to roll on.

Thanks.
Tom
 
2 inch is a lot cheaper and easier to move. I don't think the rolling resistance will matter to the size (that you will notice).
My wife and I have moved a lot of equipment and a carport with rolling pipes. Works well.
Jerry
 
Hi Tom,
If you were moving something heavy on a smooth floor, I don't think it would matter. However, given that you will presumably be moving over uneven ground, I would think that larger pipes would be easier for the same reason that large wheels are easier to roll over uneven ground than small wheels.
 
Keith_M said:
Hi Tom,
If you were moving something heavy on a smooth floor, I don't think it would matter. However, given that you will presumably be moving over uneven ground, I would think that larger pipes would be easier for the same reason that large wheels are easier to roll over uneven ground than small wheels.
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Use 2X8's or 2X12's on the ground - then pipes then sheds, then a smooth surface and you don't have to find (or pay for) larger pipes
 
Didn't read that you would be using 4 x 4's as a track. Feeling stupid...:stupid:
 
Keith_M said:
Didn't read that you would be using 4 x 4's as a track. Feeling stupid...:stupid:
Click to expand...

Feeling stupid? You're imitating me again?

:banana:
 
And just as I step out to go buy some pipe ... it starts snowing and sleeting.

Will this ever end ...?

240_F_59862987_VMjck4ZDWEji9Z0mOqiM8IYZU8paH37c.jpg
 
Rhodyspit75 said:
This offer still stands. Less than an hour away.
Click to expand...

hmmm - that may be a great solution. I don't own a truck, so the pieces would need to be 8 feet or less each, to fit in the car. I'd then couple them together to make my 12 to 16 foot lengths.

Thus I'd need six 8 foot lengths (for the three rollers), and three couplings.

Is this something you have?

Thanks.
Tom
 
Right now they are 10 feet long. We can cut then so you can transport them. Depending on how you plan to lay out your tracks and the base of your shed you may not need to couple pieces together. As long as the supports under your shed are sitting on the pipes and riding on the rails you may be able to use shorter prices of pipe.
My saws all is at my daughters house right now but they can be cut with a hacksaw.
 
NutmegCT said:
hmmm - that may be a great solution. I don't own a truck, so the pieces would need to be 8 feet or less each, to fit in the car. I'd then couple them together to make my 12 to 16 foot lengths.

Thus I'd need six 8 foot lengths (for the three rollers), and three couplings.

Is this something you have?

Thanks.
Tom
Click to expand...


No Couplings! they will get snagged don't ask me how I know.

you don't need 8 foot lengths, 6 four foot will work just as well - three on one side, three on the other.
 
JPSmit said:
No Couplings! they will get snagged don't ask me how I know.

you don't need 8 foot lengths, 6 four foot will work just as well - three on one side, three on the other.
Click to expand...

J-P, without the couplings, isn't there a strong danger that the individual pipes will move diagonally as the shed is rolled over them? Seems the couplings would prevent that, as each "pipe" support would be a single unit.

Thanks.
 
Tom, are you overthinking this? I presume the shed weighs about 2000 lbs & that shouldn't be too hard to move. I suspect the biggest problem will be jacking it up. I suggest you just start with that - get it off the ground on some blocks and I think the rest will follow. I bet a few long towstraps & a decent comealong will make short work of it with little risk of damage.
 
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