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Tie rods zerk

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R

RestoreThemAll

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My new tie rods don't have grease zerks. I know that most or all tie rods made these days aren't supposed to need maintenance but I'm a little old school. So do I drill, tap and insert zerks or leave it alone?
 
I did ....drill tap etc
 
So do it drill, tap and insert zerks or leave it alone

:savewave:-------------------Leave it alone-----:glee:--------Really -Keoke

-----------------------If it aint broke ....dont fix it "------:iagree:
 
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I remember back in the day, Road & Track snidely referred to the Austin-Healey maintenance schedule as being "capable of providing full-time employment for a corps of mechanics."
If the modern manufacturer doesn't think a zerk is necessary, well, then, maybe it's not.

I wonder if our modern cars have zerks at all?
 
steveg;97012I wonder if our modern cars have zerks at all?[/QUOTE said:
No because they want them to wear out so you need to have them replaced and they can suck you into wheel alignments and steering rack replacements etc etc . The cheaper they make stuff the faster it wears out . No nipples, no, grease = more wear =more parts sold . simple .
Click to expand...
 
I just couldn't let it go...

The tie rods were sitting there on the bench waiting patiently to be painted and installed. Calling to me.

I spoke with a couple of DIY mechanics who have installed tie rods in semi modern cars. My son (In Florida) drives a 2000 pontiac Grand Prix that looks like it was just driven off the show room floor. Not that special of a car but why replace a good car doesn't need replacing. A little maintenance goes a long way. These guys have changed out tie rods that last in some cases only two years. They dry out and cannot be greased.

So I removed the rubber boot and grease on my tie rod. There wasn't that much grease. To be fair the boot looked like it would seal OK, maybe not great. So if there's enough of the right grease it could be a while before there's a problem. My car won't get driven in too much rain (fat chance, I live in NY). I decided to put in a grease fitting and try it out. I am pleased with the outcome. I could add grease and see it come through to the boot side, with the boot off. I know that it will be kept lubed which should help with steering.

I do think that it's important to burn, not punch or cut, an exit hole in the boot so that the old grease and moisture can move out.


The other piece of research that I did is look at a few dozen Healey pics. The majority do not have grease a fitting on the tie rods.

So was it the right thing to do? It took only 5 min. I don't ever want to replace parts on this car again. With that said you guys now know that I am nuts.
 
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Dale,
Did you have any trouble removing the swarf after you drilled and tapped the holes for the zerks? Is there a particular spot to drill to avoid drilling into the ball?

IMO putting any hole in the dust boot is a bad idea. You're supposed to pump in the grease until you can see the boot swell, then stop.

FWIW - PN for the Hyundai boot that lasts for years: 56828-21010
see: https://www.hyundaioemparts.com/oe-hyundai/5682821010
 
My tie-rod ends are doing just fine, but the LOUSY rubber gaiters, aka boots, dry-rot and crack in only a matter of weeks...

... okay, YEARS, but it seems like weeks!

I've replaced the boots on my six (6) ends three (3) times already, just in the last decade. Everything is made like crap; there's not much interest anymore in turning out a quality product, with everything sourced from China and Mexico :(

[/rant]
 
steveg said:
Dale,
Did you have any trouble removing the swarf after you drilled and tapped the holes for the zerks? Is there a particular spot to drill to avoid drilling into the ball?

IMO putting any hole in the dust boot is a bad idea. You're supposed to pump in the grease until you can see the boot swell, then stop.

FWIW - PN for the Hyundai boot that lasts for years: 56828-21010
see: https://www.hyundaioemparts.com/oe-hyundai/5682821010
Click to expand...
So, you're saying that these are better than what the usual suspects have been selling for our cars?

If so, based on your word, I'll try them, as I'm already due to replace them (I get more mileage out of the oil, for cryin' out loud!).
 
Someone on the email list sourced these years ago. Mine were installed in September, 2006. All four still good. Just took this picture.
TieBoot2.jpg On closer examination, it looks like some micro-cracks are starting to appear. They may only last ten years. :grumpy:
PS - at the time I had Moss boots which cracked immediately before I could even get the car back on the road.

Hopefully newly purchased examples are still just as good.
 

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steveg said:
Someone on the email list sourced these years ago. Mine were installed in September, 2006. All four still good. Just took this picture.
View attachment 36326 On closer examination, it looks like some micro-cracks are starting to appear. They may only last ten years. :grumpy:
PS - at the time I had Moss boots which cracked immediately before I could even get the car back on the road.

Hopefully newly purchased examples are still just as good.
Click to expand...
I called a Dealer last year and was told that these were no longer available.
 
steveg said:
Someone on the email list sourced these years ago. Mine were installed in September, 2006. All four still good. Just took this picture.
View attachment 36326 On closer examination, it looks like some micro-cracks are starting to appear. They may only last ten years. :grumpy:
PS - at the time I had Moss boots which cracked immediately before I could even get the car back on the road.

Hopefully newly purchased examples are still just as good.
Click to expand...
Yep, "cracked immediately" I must have the same ones (I mean, don't they test these things before blindly accepting them...?).
 
steveg said:
Dale,
Did you have any trouble removing the swarf after you drilled and tapped the holes for the zerks? Is there a particular spot to drill to avoid drilling into the ball?

IMO putting any hole in the dust boot is a bad idea. You're supposed to pump in the grease until you can see the boot swell, then stop.

FWIW - PN for the Hyundai boot that lasts for years: 56828-21010
see: https://www.hyundaioemparts.com/oe-hyundai/5682821010
Click to expand...


Steve,
No trouble with the drill shavings. I went slow and used a strong magnet, a clean rag, and a very strong shop vac to keep it all clean. A strong light and glasses help to.

No problem drilling though. The tip of the drill bit did touch the top of the center of the ball. No harm, as that part of the ball doesn't touch anything.

I see what you mean about not putting a hole in the rubber. yes, it does fill with grease but won't it dry out and harden some? That's part of why I like the idea of putting in fresh grease. Given what Randy and others have said maybe the grease fittings are overkill.

Dale
 
Randy Forbes said:
I *just* placed an order via Steve's link, so I'll see what happens over the next few days (the order seemed to process okay...)...
Click to expand...

Randy,
I can hold off a while to install my tie rods. Plenty of other areas to focus on. I'd like to see what you think of the rubber that you just ordered.
Thanks for weighing in!
Dale

Dale
 
RestoreThemAll said:
Randy,
I can hold off a while to install my tie rods. Plenty of other areas to focus on. I'd like to see what you think of the rubber that you just ordered.
Thanks for weighing in!
Dale

Dale
Click to expand...
You might have to poke me a bit to get your follow up__I tend to put problems behind me pretty fast__but sure, be glad to give my impression.
 
RestoreThemAll said:
...

I see what you mean about not putting a hole in the rubber. yes, it does fill with grease but won't it dry out and harden some? ...

Dale
Click to expand...

Years ago mechanics used to fill up grease fittings until the grease came out from under the dust boots. I remember reading this was bad for the sealing of the boot. It seemed to make sense. Don't have an authoritative citation for this (or too lazy to look one up).

If they needed a hole, they would have been provided already with a hole.

As far as drying out or hardening - can this really be an issue with our fair-weather-driven collector cars?
 
As far as drying out or hardening - can this really be an issue with our fair-weather-driven collector cars?[/QUOTE]

Steve,
You're right about the fair weather driving. For me anyway. Though sometimes it's damp all summer in NY. I think that you have narrowed the problem down to the rubber more so than the grease. If they can truly be sealed up with quality rubber and good grease inside then fair weather driving shouldn't dry them out.
Thanks again.
Dale
 
RestoreThemAll said:
Randy,
I can hold off a while to install my tie rods. Plenty of other areas to focus on. I'd like to see what you think of the rubber that you just ordered.
Thanks for weighing in!
Dale

Dale
Click to expand...
My Paypal payment was refunded, and it appears that the gaiters (or boots) at least by that part number, are no longer available.

Back to making them a routine replacement item through the usual sources, at least until somebody decides to make some that might actually last a decade...
 
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