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TR2/3/3A Is there any reason there is a stud bolt at top of timing chain cover?

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TuffTR250

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On the engine in my TR3A there is a stud bolt at the top of the timing chain cover just to the left of the top alignment pin (as looking at front of engine). It is the only stud used on the timing chain cover. Is there any reason that there is a stud there rather than using a bolt, since there are two alignment pins for the cover, i.e. another one toward the lower left side of the cover. The stud seems to make it difficult to get the cover on while struggling to hold the tensioner spring inside the cover. Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
TuffTR250 said:
On the engine in my TR3A there is a stud bolt at the top of the timing chain cover just to the left of the top alignment pin (as looking at front of engine).
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On mine the one stud was two holes to the left of the locating pin - not sure which is correct or if it matters (or why a stud is needed).

But I recall no problem with the spring.

TuffTR250 said:
The stud seems to make it difficult to get the cover on while struggling to hold the tensioner spring inside the cover.
Click to expand...

As I recall the spring was simply placed on its post on the engine, not 'inside the cover'. The cover was then offered up in a fashion to enclose the spring as it was put in its place.
 
I agree with Geo. Install the gasket on the front plate, then bring the cover in from the side so it traps the end of the spring. Not sure why they used a stud there, but if nothing else it helps hold the gasket. There's also a center stud/support that the cover has to fit over.

Note that there is supposed to be a fiber sealing washer on the support, which seems to usually be missing and is not included in the gasket sets. I cut a corner from one of the extra carb gaskets in the set, which seems to work well enough.
 
Thanks! As many times as I've put a timing chain cover on I don't believe I have ever put the gasket on the engine plate first. I don't know why, I guess I just didn't :smile:
This afternoon I fiddled around with dry fitting the cover and used the stud as kind of a lever for holding the cover while I pushed in the tensioner. That seemed to work and I was able to keep the cover away from the engine plate as if I had gasket sealant on it to avoid. I may leave the stud in and try putting the gasket on the engine plate first. Thanks for the idea! BTW Geo, the stud is in the second hole to the left of the top pin. I had forgotten that when I first wrote.
Regards,
Bob
 
TuffTR250 said:
...I don't believe I have ever put the gasket on the engine plate first. I don't know why...
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The why (I put the gasket on the cover) for me is that I use RTV to attach the gasket to the cover and lay the thing gasket-down an a sheet of glass to set up. I then use Hylomar on the gasket to engine plate mating. The hope is I get a good seal (I did), am able to remove any RTV 'noodles' (did that too) and someday it will be easy to remove. Hopefully the 'next guy' will thank me.
 
What's the right/best way to get the tensioner inside the cover without messing up the gasket? and then getting the cover on? I find that putting the cover on seems to be a 2 person job with one holding (fighting) the tensioner and another fighting to get the cover on straight without causing the other person to lose control of the tensioner. Has anyone done a YouTube demo on how to put the cover on? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
 
I seem to be missing something as I recall no issues putting the cover on. I can't think of a way you could have something backwards, but it seemed to just be a matter of getting the left edge of the cover over the tensioner and moving it into position over the studs and locating pin.
 
TuffTR250 said:
What's the right/best way to get the tensioner inside the cover without messing up the gasket? and then getting the cover on? I find that putting the cover on seems to be a 2 person job with one holding (fighting) the tensioner and another fighting to get the cover on straight without causing the other person to lose control of the tensioner. Has anyone done a YouTube demo on how to put the cover on? Thanks!
Regards,
Bob
Click to expand...

I don't know about the best way or right way; but I did re do my cover 3 times on three consecutive days, and I got pretty good at it.
First I used hylomar blue on the engine face and applied the gasket there first. This seemed to be easier to me because you have to use the cover as a lever to control the tensioner .
second: i laid a small bead of hylomar on the gasket exposed side and a smear on the rim of the cover ( don't forget the fiber washer on the center pedestal that Randall mentioned)

third: use the inside lip of the cover to control the tensioner & aim for the stud first, once you have a toe hold on the stud , gently (& while holding your jaw just right ) swing the base in position.
the trick is not to try to force it & don't have the top bolt hole fully engaged on the stud until you have the pins & center pedestal lined up.

if you find reason to redo it, like I did, you will find acetone breaks down the hylomar very quickly & makes an excellent surface cleaner.

also a second fiber washer on the pedestal, outside of the cover, seemed like a good idea.
 
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