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Leather care!

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NutmegCT

NutmegCT

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As someone completely new to real leather upholstery ... I have to ask what steps I should follow to improve this passenger seat leather:

DSC_0152.jpeg


It's red dyed true leather, original from 1962, getting a bit long of tooth. Rear seat looks similar. I know the patched area on the driver's seat needs major work, but what would you do on the other seats? initial cleaning, leather treatment, etc.

Thanks.
Tom
 
Tom, there are a number of brands out there, but, the bottom line is this: NO products with silicone! This includes the usual suspects, particularly Armor All.

I have had good results with the Leatherique brand. However, for regular use, I have Lexol which I actually bought at a tack shop. That said, I look at restoration articles and pics on the web and often I will see old decrepit seats made new as part of the restoration - I have never had results approaching that - I think you need professional (or something like Connelly) for that to work. Is that the Humber?
 
JP - yep, that's the Humber. I'll need a professional for the driver seat, but as the others appear only to need some cleaning and conditioning, that's the advice I need. I've also contacted other restoration sites, Leatherique and some other manufacturers, but have yet to hear back.

Could you share more detail on the regular use of Lexol you're doing? Just rub it in every few months, or ...? Did you do some kind of primary restoration and/or cleaning before first using the Lexol?

Thanks.
Edit: the new garage is taking shape. When it's done, I'll come up to claim the mighty Super Snipe!
 
I am the worst guy in the world for car care - I keep a bottle of detailer in the trunk of the MG and wipe it when I am parked at the show, but, basically, I use the Leatherique about once a year (this on SWMBO's Beetle BTW) and simply use the lexol (spray bottle) when I clean the car. It is supposed to clean and condition.

Oh, and, for the Vauxhall, I bought some Meguirs leather/vinyl conditioner/cleaner - not sure what to expect but, rubbing it in briskly with a brush seems to have helped.

Finally, for an initial clean, I have used scrubbing bubbles to good effect - you don't want to use it a lot, but, to get things going, I used it on the Vauxhall also to get rid of initial dirt.
 
Scrubbing Bubbles? this stuff?

full_mega_shower_foamer_trigger.jpg


Spray it on the leather, let sit a few minutes, then rinse with clear water and towel dry?

I'd think it would penetrate the leather, go down into the internals, and remain wet for quite a while.

What's your technique?
 
Interesting - this guy shows using SB *once*, then a standard leather conditioner afterward. From then on, just use a standard leather cleaner and/or conditioner.

After brush scrubbing the SB, he just wipes off (doesn't rinse).

 
NutmegCT said:
Scrubbing Bubbles? this stuff?

full_mega_shower_foamer_trigger.jpg


Spray it on the leather, let sit a few minutes, then rinse with clear water and towel dry?

I'd think it would penetrate the leather, go down into the internals, and remain wet for quite a while.

What's your technique?
Click to expand...

Pretty much exactly that - I do use a brush and I don't wait much more than a minute, but, yup, that's the stuff.
 
If you have a person making leather products, purses, saddles, etc., in your area, contact them on how to treat your leather. I use Hide Food from Jag dealer and Land Rover has an excellent cleaner. You will need to use a moisturizer first then a cream and buff the crap out of them. The cream can come in color to help hide cracks easier. SNG, BAS, other top leather suppliers to Jags, Healeys, Ferrari, Rovers, Austin Martin and the like can show you the best and easiest way. Products might not be cheap, but you would be guaranteed to be right.
 
Thanks Larry. What do you use for the "initial" leather cleaning - for example just after you acquire a car?

Edit: Just noticed in your "Also had" list - a P38? Details! I want details!

Tom
 
The P38 is the model of Range Rovers from 1996 thru 2001. Mine was a white 4.6Ltre HSE that dropped a liner on me. I use a mild non-abrasive hand soap (dove) with water for mild cleaning. Have been successful with harder dirt with saddle soap and water. Saddle soap cleans and softens. Then I use Connelly Hide Food and a very small amount of water and rub leather well and then buff out. Connelly also makes a cleaner. My Land Rover came with a bottle of cleaner (Land Rover Brand) that cleans quick and easy but you have to treat with cream immediately. Lexoil, Griots Garage ( makes a lot of cleaners and leather stuff used by car museums), Meguairs, and Mother's Leather care products are good. Test a patch before going wild on seats to make sure there is no staining. Scrubbing bubbles might be OK, but I would be afraid of residue left in cracking leather. Seems a few of the guys use it but do it quickly (seems like the Land Rover stuff). As you know this job will be tough on the knees so take your time and a little at a time. I will look up the company that makes the seat color cream that helps fill the cracks and makes the seats look new and post later. SwissVax is expensive but used throughout Europe. Bill Hirsch makes dyes for leather (Hirschauto.com)( NJ ) also makes a crack filler for leather.
 
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Larry - this is great advice. Thanks. Other than the very worn driver's seat, I just want to preserve what I find. Actually, I'm even reluctant to have a pro work on the driver's seat, as I'm 99% sure it would come back perfect - but nothing like all the other (less worn) seats. By the way, what is that "NJ crack filler for leather"?

And I have to confess - this is the P38 I was thinking:

061019-F-1234P-015.jpg
 
One of my favorite aircrafts besides th F4U-4. Have models of each and an R/C model of F4U-4. Cannot afford them real, so stayed with cars.
 
Great! I need to see that Museum and I need to see the new Marine Corps Museum, also need to go back to the Smithsonian. Just have to put things down to travel. Kind of hard to do with all the irons in the fire.
 
Here's the monthly diary on the P-51 work:

https://neam.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1304

When you get out here, we're open 7 days a week. I'd be glad to set you up with a docent who'd give you a personal museum walk-n-talk.

Also, " I will look up the company that makes the seat color cream that helps fill the cracks and makes the seats look new and post later." Let me know that company when you get a chance.

Tom

 
Good patient job. My brother-in-law is the plane guy in the family. Just did a 3 yr. restoration of a 140 Cessna fabric wings and all. In process of getting license now. Helped with brakes and odd stuff, still being sorted on each flight. I'm sticking to my MK1 that is almost completely torn down. Metal next.
 
Found it. www.liquidleather.com, look under scuffmaster in index on left. They need to know yr,model, color. All explained on site. #s on site. Not cheap but works excellent. Used this at a Jag shop years ago, will use again if needed.
 
Thanks Larry. Looks like that site - and products - are a good source for all the details and work I'll be doing.

Tom
 
Mink oil works really great on leather. I have never used it on auto seats although it's on my computer chair which is leather. Try it on a belt first to see how it works. There is some darkening to the color so you have to do all or none to match. It doesn't harm the stitching like Lexol does. I found out about mink oil 30 years ago and have been using it on all my leather products with zero problems since. Basically you apply, let sit 24 hours, then buff the residue off with a cloth. Leather becomes soft, water resistant, and lasts much longer. Wear rubber gloves as it is hard to remove from your skin.
 
I've used Lexol for years. Even used it on my T Bird White leather seats and the leather was always soft and no color change. PJ
View attachment 36993
 
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