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MGB Mathrin's 71 MGB

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mathrin

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Original Post

Hello all!

I'm in the Greenwood, IN area in case there are any locals around as well.

I just bought a 1971 MGB and looking forward to learning all about them. I've always like the old roadsters. And had an opportunity to pick one up locally for relatively cheap money. I'm sure I could have gotten one cheaper but this one appears mechanically sound and body seems in good condition. Needs cosmetic work though. I'd just be as happy with a triumph or a fiat. Though, really always had a soft spot for the MG's.

I only took it on a short test drive but the car brakes straight but the peddle is a little heavy. No power brakes I'm so probably normal. Suspension isn't sagging and didn't feel soft anywhere. Steering is tight and darty which is nice. Safety wise it appears good. This is some vibration in the rear which appears to be wheel balance issue as it didn't have any play in it as I would expect from a wheel bearing issue. Will obviously look into it more. Story is the previous owner restored it to driving condition for his son but the son didn't like it so he sold it to the dealer I bought it from. Their loss and my gain. Paid $4200 for it. I'm happy with it.

Pointers to maintenance and common repairs would be great. Also, what all to look out for and things to ensure drivability would be welcome advice.

It will live with my G6, insanely modified Impreza, CBR600 sport bike and vintage 81 CB125S. Full garage now.

 
Last edited:
(Edit for ragtop post)

Original Post: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?96421-ragtop-question-about-what-is-included

I have a 71 MGB and bought the car with a hardtop already on it, but it came with the ragtop and frame. I am not sure how the ragtop attaches to the front metal frame. Is that supposed to already be attached. The front frame I'm referring to is the part that actually attaches to the windshield frame. I hope that makes sense. I can take pictures if it will help.
PAUL161 said:
Try this link, it should help. PJ

www.mgexp.com/article/soft-top-replacement.html
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I was looking for. I think I can figure out all I need from this information. I may be missing some bits, but the pictures really help.

I don't have this rubber bit or the metal trim piece:
View attachment 33100

drooartz said:
You can get that retainer bar and seal from Moss:

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=59204

#37 and #39 in the picture.

MGB-110.gif
Click to expand...
 
(Edit for Brake post)

Original post: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?96658-trying-to-change-rotors-dumb-question



I haven't seen how to remove this cap for the rotors. Just that it needs to be removed for the hub.

Thank you in advance.

"Very small flat blade screwdriver and small hammer. Tap at several spots around the little ridge where the cap meets the hub. Take your time and it will pop out enough to pry it off." -Mickey Richaud



Original post: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?96676-Drum-Hat-Install

Getting close to the end of my brake install and I have all the bits installed on the rear drums but I can't get the hats to clear the shoes.

Any advice?

Managed to get one on, but it is tight and doesn't spin easily but does turn. I hate drum brakes. Lol

So instead of posting from my phone, I am at a computer. Update to how things went and currently are.

I managed to get the drivers side drum on. Took for persuasion since it started and wouldn't move. So I pressed it in with a pair of C clamps and lug nuts. Like I did with the passenger side but I was able to get to that side with the lug nuts before it got stuck.

E brake is fully disengaged, or at least appears to be fully down. It won't pull or push either way but the cables have slack going to either drum versus being snug or taunt if it were to be engaged. Looks like I will need to do some work on the e-brake at some point. Bleed the lines for a long time because the brake fluid coming out of it looked like mud so used a whole bottle of DOT3 and probably wouldn't be a bad idea to flush and bleed again at some point.

Took the car out for short drive and it didn't want to move/roll, which was to be expected seeing how very snug the drivers side was. Drove about half mile to a mile going through several intersections and the car broke good and straight. Stopped in my driveway and the car rolled back at this time. Got it in the garage and got out to see plenty of smoke pillowing out of drivers drum. Not super surprised seeing as it was likely riding the brake the whole time as to be expected (hence, the short ride).

So that's where I stand now. Hopefully I've burned off enough pad to no longer have the interference and didn't cause any damage to the brake system.

(Still hate drum brakes)

I did fail to mention that the main adjusters were backed off. I completely removed them, cleaned them and re-inserted them in the cavity. They were just about touching. Any adjustments clockwise or counterclockwise caused them to open.

I will adjust them again after watching the video just to be sure. Maybe I can get them closer together. What can it possibly hurt right?


Result? Didn't back off the main adjusters enough. Lesson learned.
 
I wanted to show off my new repair manual.

Is there any other manuals I really need to pick up? I looked through this and it looks awesome, but lacks information on the convertible top.
 

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Very nice! The actual Leyland shop manual. The Bentley version has a few more sections, includes the "Special Tuning Manual".
 
My WAG is a "yes." As stated, the Bentley Press one is the original workshop manual with a few added sections. Can't ever have too much information.
 
DrEntropy said:
My WAG is a "yes." As stated, the Bentley Press one is the original workshop manual with a few added sections. Can't ever have too much information.
Click to expand...

First of all, welcome and congratulation! In terms of manuals (for my Midget at least) I have Haynes and Bentley - Bentley is in my opinion the best, but, I actually use both as they each explain different things better.
 
Welcome!

I use the Bentley and Haynes manuals -- I find there's useful info in both, and the Haynes does have pictures for some jobs that do prove helpful.
 
Good lad!!
 
mathrin said:
So the Bentley manual is now added to the collection.View attachment 34738

I also have the Haynes but really don't care for it.
Click to expand...

well done - and while you will never love the Haynes Manual, one day you will appreciate it - don't ask me how I know
 
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