-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR2/3/3A Macy,s new fan
- Thread starter donbmw
- Start date
Share this page
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hi Randall,
Moss has both the 4lb & 7lb - 1" reach. I ord. the 4lb Monday & see what happens??
Regards, Russ
PS: I did know that Geo but Thanx for the info anyway.
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hi Folks,
I bought this Fan on ebay the other day. The seller was`nt exactly sure if it came off a TR3 or TR4. He did check the "Mounting Holes" vs a "Std" 4 blade TR3 fan & said they were exactly the same. Someone here posted that a "GT6" Fan is a "Direct Bolt On". I`m hoping this is one but ?? Here are some detials on the Fan:
12" dia / 7 blade / Stanpart # 88309141 Green:
Mounting Hole Dim`s are: (Short leg = 1-3/32" or 1-1/4") & (Long leg = 1-1/2"):
Center Thru hole is: (1-1/8" dia):
Overall Hub Thickness is: (1-1/8" thk):
Inside Dim. from "Flat Surface where the Mtg holes are" to the back side of the Outer Large Dia. is: (1"):
I`m looking to educated on what I bought? Is this a "GT6" Fan that "Direct Bolt Onto" my TR3A or What is it????
Thanx so Much.
Russ
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
Looks like a Triumph fan. You will want to look at your clearance both front and back when the fan is against the hub. Clearance seems to vary from one car to the next - i.e. some can mount a particular fan right out of the box where others with the same model TR have to reverse the fan &/or use a spacer.
For a time I used a TR6 fan (painted black) on my TR4 but had to use a spacer made from a plastic cutting board:
For a time I used a TR6 fan (painted black) on my TR4 but had to use a spacer made from a plastic cutting board:
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
Looks like a Spitfire fan. A similar fan was used on early TR6 models 69-70ish but that fan was yellow. Not to be confused with the squared later TR6 fan.
Oh and it should fit OK. No idea on cooling value.
Oh and it should fit OK. No idea on cooling value.
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hi Folks,
Yesterday I went over a friends house who bought my `57 Small Mouth with open access to the Fan. This fans "Mtg. Hole Pattern" fit just right. I don`t know if it`ll need a spacer or not but in due time will.
Today; I`m going to my Brit Car Mech. shop to install the "Spin On" Oil filter adapter, Tweek Carbs, Minor Clutch Adj, Install "185deg" Failsafe Thermostat, Put on the 4lbs x 1" Rad. cap & chk. to see how "EASY" (LOL) it will be to install this fan!! I`m really looking forward to some "Lower Temps" while Idling!!
"sp53": No; Thats not the one from England for a Herald.
Have a Fun Sunday.
Regards, Russ
Yesterday I went over a friends house who bought my `57 Small Mouth with open access to the Fan. This fans "Mtg. Hole Pattern" fit just right. I don`t know if it`ll need a spacer or not but in due time will.
Today; I`m going to my Brit Car Mech. shop to install the "Spin On" Oil filter adapter, Tweek Carbs, Minor Clutch Adj, Install "185deg" Failsafe Thermostat, Put on the 4lbs x 1" Rad. cap & chk. to see how "EASY" (LOL) it will be to install this fan!! I`m really looking forward to some "Lower Temps" while Idling!!
"sp53": No; Thats not the one from England for a Herald.
Have a Fun Sunday.
Regards, Russ
Offline
This past weekend I finally got my Macy's Hurricane fan on the car, the apron fixed and reinstalled and went out for an hour or so long ride. I also replaced the radiator, installed the shroud (which was missing) and this, coupled with the low 70's New England temperature, made for a "cool" ride. The only time I got over 185 on the temp guage was when I ran her for about 20 minutes at 75 - 80mph (my speedometer is off too and it was registering between 85 & 90 but I've compared this to one of my friends cars and he says the speedometer reads about 10 mph more than actual as those speeds). When I got back onto the rural roads, the temp gauge registered below 185 as long as I wasn't at highway speed.
Although I'm cautiously optimistic, I did have to wait at a light which has always made me nervous as I watched the temp rise - and to my pleasure the temp stood firm below 185. I assume all of the new parts (and the cooler outside temperature) have contributed to cooler running temperature and now can't wait for a real test next summer.
A little off topic, I also took advantage of the apron being off to replace my motor rests - I call them motor rests because the rubber connected to the frame wasn't secured to the engine. Not broken, just not connected. Although we probably shouldn't have been, both my wife and I were amazed at the difference in the ride last night - the car feels so much more solid then before. Gotta love PO's, eh?
Although I'm cautiously optimistic, I did have to wait at a light which has always made me nervous as I watched the temp rise - and to my pleasure the temp stood firm below 185. I assume all of the new parts (and the cooler outside temperature) have contributed to cooler running temperature and now can't wait for a real test next summer.
A little off topic, I also took advantage of the apron being off to replace my motor rests - I call them motor rests because the rubber connected to the frame wasn't secured to the engine. Not broken, just not connected. Although we probably shouldn't have been, both my wife and I were amazed at the difference in the ride last night - the car feels so much more solid then before. Gotta love PO's, eh?
Born_Loser
Member
Offline
Thanks for the update Billyb. As is common, my TR3 runs a bit on the warm side as well. One thing I would like to mention is the original thermostat blocks the re-circulation loop (the part of the cooling flow that by-passes the radiator), and the modern "fail safe" (or any modern non-bllowed or "sleeved" t-stat) does not. As the original t stat opens, it simultaneously closes that loop - until both the radiator loop is 100% open, and the by-pass loop is 100% closed - at just below 200 deg.
My set up is the original tr3 fan, with a small pusher on a toggle switch (my "red light" fan), and a "fail safe" t-stat. With that set up, my TR3 gets grounded for August in Central Florida - it just runs too hot. Even June and September trips require planning to avoid stop and go, and the interstate (no overdrive). So, I have been thinking about more air options as well. When I did a little maintenance this summer, I was on line ordering parts, and saw Moss has the old style t-stats available now. Wondered what it would do for me. So I dropped a 5/8 socket (with the hole plugged with a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter) into my by-pass line, and took out the t-stat. This weekend, I took it for a drive - at 9:00. It was in the mid 80's. I drove about 40 minutes, first 1/2 in city stop and go, second 1/2 on the interstate at about 75 to downtown Tampa. I ran about 170- to 185 deg, never using the "red light" switch - this was the best it had ever done. We were down town for about 3 hours, and headed home just after 12. low to mid 90's. I decided to give it the torture test - and drove home on a secondary highway through Tampa. 36 lights - and we hit about 1/2 of them red. Took about an hour and 1/2 to get home. Hit 185 fast this time - and maintained it at 50 or so. Every red light added a couple degrees, and each green stretch pulled it down some. In the end, I did have to hit the switch to keep it out of 200, but, only at a stop. I turned it off after the light changed, and it did just fine. When I pulled into the garage, it was sitting about 185-190. This was a great improvement for me. I am defiantly going to order the t-stat. I am thinking that and a blade, I'll have August back again! NOTE -this is a 7psi max t-stat- 10 pis will kill it. Here is the link
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29120, item number 10.
My set up is the original tr3 fan, with a small pusher on a toggle switch (my "red light" fan), and a "fail safe" t-stat. With that set up, my TR3 gets grounded for August in Central Florida - it just runs too hot. Even June and September trips require planning to avoid stop and go, and the interstate (no overdrive). So, I have been thinking about more air options as well. When I did a little maintenance this summer, I was on line ordering parts, and saw Moss has the old style t-stats available now. Wondered what it would do for me. So I dropped a 5/8 socket (with the hole plugged with a 1/2 to 3/8 drive adapter) into my by-pass line, and took out the t-stat. This weekend, I took it for a drive - at 9:00. It was in the mid 80's. I drove about 40 minutes, first 1/2 in city stop and go, second 1/2 on the interstate at about 75 to downtown Tampa. I ran about 170- to 185 deg, never using the "red light" switch - this was the best it had ever done. We were down town for about 3 hours, and headed home just after 12. low to mid 90's. I decided to give it the torture test - and drove home on a secondary highway through Tampa. 36 lights - and we hit about 1/2 of them red. Took about an hour and 1/2 to get home. Hit 185 fast this time - and maintained it at 50 or so. Every red light added a couple degrees, and each green stretch pulled it down some. In the end, I did have to hit the switch to keep it out of 200, but, only at a stop. I turned it off after the light changed, and it did just fine. When I pulled into the garage, it was sitting about 185-190. This was a great improvement for me. I am defiantly going to order the t-stat. I am thinking that and a blade, I'll have August back again! NOTE -this is a 7psi max t-stat- 10 pis will kill it. Here is the link
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29120, item number 10.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
That's interesting. I've tried it several times (every time I have a problem with overheating) and have never been able to tell that blocking off the bypass made any difference at all. Of course, my cooling system isn't very stock any more either, so maybe that has something to do with it. The radiator has been re-cored without the crank hole (the crank hole reduces cooling capacity by about 10% according to my radiator guy); and the factory fan and extension are gone. But the 12" Hayden electric fan only comes on when I'm idling or caught in stop-and-go traffic; never while running down the road at any speed and any air temperature.
So far, the 56 has only seen about 104F (and didn't creep up); but the previous 59 TR3A with the same setup stayed cool even in 115F. That's too hot for me, we actually found a motel room and stayed indoors until the sun went down! Of course, it's a lot more humid in FL, but I believe that should actually aid cooling, not hinder it.
FWIW, there is another way to achieve the same effect and still run a (cheap) modern thermostat. Just drill a 1/4" hole through the thermostat mounting plate, and block off the bypass entirely. I actually threaded the pump housing for a plug, but I like Geo's idea of stuffing a copper pipe cap inside the hose better. Now, you still have some circulation with the thermostat closed (to reduce thermal shock when it opens), but all of the flow goes through the radiator. The downside is that it takes longer for the engine to warm up (and it might never warm up in really cold weather); but neither of those should be a problem in FL (or southern CA).
So far, the 56 has only seen about 104F (and didn't creep up); but the previous 59 TR3A with the same setup stayed cool even in 115F. That's too hot for me, we actually found a motel room and stayed indoors until the sun went down! Of course, it's a lot more humid in FL, but I believe that should actually aid cooling, not hinder it.
FWIW, there is another way to achieve the same effect and still run a (cheap) modern thermostat. Just drill a 1/4" hole through the thermostat mounting plate, and block off the bypass entirely. I actually threaded the pump housing for a plug, but I like Geo's idea of stuffing a copper pipe cap inside the hose better. Now, you still have some circulation with the thermostat closed (to reduce thermal shock when it opens), but all of the flow goes through the radiator. The downside is that it takes longer for the engine to warm up (and it might never warm up in really cold weather); but neither of those should be a problem in FL (or southern CA).
Born_Loser
Member
Offline
Mine are Fahrenheit as well. The 80 to 115 temps refereed to in the last 2 posts, are outside ambient, not engine coolant temps.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
How that plays out:
I still have the crank hole but have added a small spoiler to throw more air at the lower end of the radiator. I used to have a pusher auxiliary electric fan but ditched it when I got a tropical fan - the electric was helpful when I needed it but I always suspected that when not in use it blocked a significant amount of air.
I drive in all months, even August (which is stupid hot in AZ) and on the interstate (which is stupid fast in AZ) with no OD and no overheating.
I've told the story before but... once I was driving past a time & temperature display and thought it seemed later than the quarter after one it was showing. Then it changed to 2:30 and I realized what the 115 was telling me.
Born_Loser
Member
Offline
Geo, that's incredible results! How does it do at idle? Stop lights and "stop and go" are my big issues - and everywhere I take the car other than a joy ride.
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
I should mention, the radiator got a new core 3 years ago & I replaced the sleeves earlier this year (permitting a thorough cleaning of the block) -- I have done other things but these two actions (and the tropical fan) probably have the most to do with having effective cooling.
Perrymip
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
This thread is so all-over-the-map that it likely should just go away.
But let me at least take the time to register that Macys Garage has offered up one of the very few real improvements that can be added onto a TR3 with just nuts-and-bolts. Everyone knows how marginal the original TR3 fan is in traffic, and especially as engines wear on and accumulate crud in the waterways. Here we have an engineered improvement, with extraordinary thoughtfulness in design and materials. It bolts onto the TR3 hub with original bolts, grommets, spacers, crank bolt stay, and lock-tabs.
Installation involves some modest investment of time. Properly done, you remove the apron and the radiator. Why try to do it differently?
For decades I've used the TR6 13 blade red fan with an adaptor. That adoption works just fine, as far as cooling in traffic, but the constant threat is what if you snap a fan belt out on the road, since the whole apparatus takes a bit more space than Triumph has left us. The Macys fan works every bit as well as that (otherwise excellent) TR6 red fan and eliminates the fan belt issue: well, not totally, one never looks forward to changing a fan belt on a TR3 on the road or otherwise.
But let me at least take the time to register that Macys Garage has offered up one of the very few real improvements that can be added onto a TR3 with just nuts-and-bolts. Everyone knows how marginal the original TR3 fan is in traffic, and especially as engines wear on and accumulate crud in the waterways. Here we have an engineered improvement, with extraordinary thoughtfulness in design and materials. It bolts onto the TR3 hub with original bolts, grommets, spacers, crank bolt stay, and lock-tabs.
Installation involves some modest investment of time. Properly done, you remove the apron and the radiator. Why try to do it differently?
For decades I've used the TR6 13 blade red fan with an adaptor. That adoption works just fine, as far as cooling in traffic, but the constant threat is what if you snap a fan belt out on the road, since the whole apparatus takes a bit more space than Triumph has left us. The Macys fan works every bit as well as that (otherwise excellent) TR6 red fan and eliminates the fan belt issue: well, not totally, one never looks forward to changing a fan belt on a TR3 on the road or otherwise.
toysrrus
Yoda
Offline
Hmmm,
Perry, I feel thats a good point about the "Fan Belt"!! I did`nt think about it till now!! "IF" I`m going to have to space out my "Hurricane Fan" that I`m planning on installing next wk. Thurs; Would`nt that mean that the "Fan Belt" will be running a bit off of a "Straight Line" causing un-due wear, stress, premature breaking etc????
Thanx, Russ
Perry, I feel thats a good point about the "Fan Belt"!! I did`nt think about it till now!! "IF" I`m going to have to space out my "Hurricane Fan" that I`m planning on installing next wk. Thurs; Would`nt that mean that the "Fan Belt" will be running a bit off of a "Straight Line" causing un-due wear, stress, premature breaking etc????
Thanx, Russ
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Russ, on a TR, the "fan" belt doesn't actually have anything to do with the fan. The fan is driven directly from the crankshaft, the belt only turns the water pump and generator. So you can add spacers between the fan and it's mount, without worrying about any effect on the belt.