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TR2/3/3A TR3a Center Dash

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Paul,

Looks great, I hope that mine turns out as well. What wrinkle black did you use?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
While I don't know the exact numbers either, I believe Art & Bill P. are correct; the cars were produced both ways for a significant length of time. I've had two cars in the 50's with apparently original switches (one of which also didn't have the optional heater); while others have reported the rheostat as early as TS42xxx.

So if your car is between TS42k and TS60k, it's basically up to you.

Personally, I'd go for the switch anyway, and just hang the rheostat knob on it if you feel it's appropriate. The rheostat is expensive, fragile, and quite useless in my experience. The stock dash lights just aren't bright enough to interfere with night vision on any but the darkest road (no traffic, no moon), and off works just fine then.
 
Used Eastwood wrinkle powder coat. I've used Krylon wrinkle paint in the past will good results, but not as consistant as the pc.
 
I am trying to redo my middle panel dash for a 58 TR3A - saw dash that was done -posted #609687 0/09/09. Looks great -- where did you get the paint for that middle panel? Any special steps?

Thanks
Chuck
 
I bought a spray can of wrinkle paint at Home Depot. It was probably Rust-O-Leum brand. The instructions on all of the cans that I've seen suggest to heat the paint after application for maximum wrinkle. Some people use a hair dryer or heat gun. I opted to preheat the oven to the suggested temperature (IIRC, about 140°F-150°F). It smelled a bit, so don't do it while momma's home. :laugh:
 
CdTR said:
How do you use the black wrinkle powder coat? Is there special equipment?
Click to expand...

Just the usual : PC gun with power supply, source of low pressure (4 psi IIRC) air and a curing oven. Kind of a hassle, especially compared to a rattle can, but the results sure look great.

I never could get the results I wanted from a rattle can, plus the results I did get always seemed to be kind of fragile. Just a few months, and it would have a scratch from keys or something.

So I had the late Fred Thomas PC this one for me, back around 2001 as I recall. This photo was taken last year, as I moved it from the wreck to the project TR3, and the dash still looks great.

TS13571LInstrumentPanelcropped.jpg
 
Harbor Freight gun, Eastwood powder. Can be used for your wiper box. Like Randell said Temps and time are no different than regular PC.

Paul
 
I painted my center dash 3 times with wrinkle paint. The paint is very tender and i decided to do something different with the new car I am working on. I will either use vinyl or wood.

Jerry
 
I had good luck w/ the Eastwood wrinkle paint and a 1500W hair dryer. Seven years on and still looking great!
 
TR4nut said:
I forgot about the TRA handbook, pretty handy reference:

"Dash (fascia) Covering (Including Center Instrument Panel) - The dash on all cars was covered in a thinly backed vinyl to match the trim, including the glovebox door, and on cars up to TS 22014, the center instrument panel. After TS 22014, the center instrument panel was finished in black wrinkle finish paint. Some TR3Bs may have had their centre instument panels covered with vynide that matches the trim or possibly with black vynide."

So that vinyl covering on 3Bs may not be very common.

Randy
Click to expand...

Hi Randy,

I was just about to take the center section out of my TR3B (late production- 85th car from the last one) and remove the black vinyl. I figured, heck, there is no way that could be right! That has to be black wrinkle paint like all the rest.

Then I saw your post- good golly I almost messed up- thanks for saving me.

Jeff

 
apbos said:
... Can be used for your wiper box...

Paul
Click to expand...

I thought the wiper box was a grey hammered finish. Or at least the field housing is.
 
When I did the MGB GT dash, I used VHT Wrinkle Finish paint. Wouldn't fit in our oven, even if I dared yet one more reason for Janet to exile me to the dog house. So I hung it in front of our fireplace to bake it. Worked great - here's a picture:

PICT0401.jpg


Also did the valve covers and the master cylinder cover. You can vary the texture by following the instructions on the can.
 
CdTR said:
How do you remove temp gauge from center panel? With out destoying it
Click to expand...

You undo the connection at the thermostat housing -- the retaining nut can be stuck in there pretty good. I soaked it with PBlaster everytime I was under the bonnet for several months and it came loose w/o drama. Once that nut & the bulb are free you straighten the capillary tube enough that you can snake it thru the firewall as you withdraw the gauge (which comes free from the dash in the usual fashion of other gauges). If you have a heater the cap tube also winds around that.

There is a LOT of length to that cap tube but (mine anyway) seemd to tolerate gentle unbending and rebending w/o a problem.

capillary%20tube.JPG



martx-5 said:
I thought the wiper box was a grey hammered finish. Or at least the field housing is.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking that both finishes were used.
 
I am redoing a center Instrument Cluster on my "62 TR3B and need a rheostat type panel switch but can't seem to find one. Also, I need a good reference for gauge repair.
 
JimTR3B said:
I am redoing a center Instrument Cluster on my "62 TR3B and need a rheostat type panel switch but can't seem to find one. Also, I need a good reference for gauge repair.
Click to expand...

Unless total originality is important to you, you might consider the earlier push-pull switch. IMO, the dimming feature is not very useful. I have a dimmer on my TR4 and can never recall using it on anything other than the full 'bright' setting. In this context, the word 'bright' is a relative term.
 
I just had my four center panel gauges restored by Mo Ma Instruments in Albuguerque. They are like brand new and I couldn't be happier with the results.
 
Hey Paul,

I just sent you a PM.

Regards, Russ
 
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