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How to remove temp sensor at block?

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christophe

Jedi Trainee
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Either the temp sensor should have a spacer placing it out from the block on a 6 cylinder and ours is missing, or i need a special socket. I purchased a set of O2 sensor sockets yesterday, but unfortunately it did not have a 5/8 unit in the kit.

So, am i missing something or is it time to bust out the dremel and make my own socket to remove the temp sensor? Needs to be slotted to go around the wire from the gauge. Im assuming that the temp sensor is like the ones used in original AC Cobras and has a bulb on the end of it that is filled with pressurized gas.

Thanks
 
I took a 5/8 combination wrench , shortened it to clear the fan etc and cut a slot in the ring end wide enough to fit the capilliary line and bingo ur done . lots of rust buster or your fave release oil etc and patience .
Depending on your wrench you may have to grind material off the outer edge of the wrench to stop it binding on the cylinder head .
 
Good point. I think i have more junk wrenches than junk sockets, so that will probably work best. I have the radiator and waterpump off the car, so I should only need to cut a notch in the ring. Im going in!
 
Hiya boyz!

Use a six-point wrench for the task, christophe. And the best penetrant BY FAR is a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto tranny fluid. Really.
 
HealeyRick said:
Careful with the nut, it's soft and can round off easily. Also be extra careful with the bulb and tube. If they break and let the ether out, it gets expensive real quick.
Click to expand...

Too late, it was already rounded off. Im down a wrench and it looks like a temp/oil pressure gauge. Is there anyway to cut the cable, leave the sensor in the block and then weld or solder the cable back together. Probably not, but im dumb enough to ask.
 
That aint no cable is a capilliary line filled with alcohol if you cut it is toast and you need a rebuild..
Having said that do yourself a favour the nut is rounded , bite the bullet cut the capilliary line send the remains to Nisonger Instruments and get it all rebuilt cleaned refurbished and calibrated .
https://www.nisonger.com/index.htm
 
Oh, didnt know the entire cable was filled with gas. i thought it was just the fitting at the end. Told you I was dumb enough to ask...

I used nisonger a few years ago for some original style Smith's gauges. Ill give him a call once the damage is complete.
 
That aint no cable is a capilliary line:----LOL! ! !
 
A rebuild will set you back around 200$
 
On the other hand you could do what I did and grind up a small double ended spanner to fit but take care on how much is coming off the outer edges as you do not want to weaken the spanner too much. I have also ground down a spanner to fit the jet nut of the carbs as well as getting to them can be difficult

On balance, if I had a ring spanner spare I would have tried that first and the temperature sensor.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Best thing that I ever did for that cap tube is to go to Harbor Freight and for about $10 get the set of 6 point crowsfeet (sizes 3/8 thru 3/4).
That 5/8 crowfoot has taken off cap tube fittings that I couldn't get any other way.
REALLY good set to have!
BillM
 
My AH was a total rust bucket with seized cylinders etc. and I was able to remove the bulb with llittle troubel. Just try spraying the nut and let sit overnight. then using the wrench, or vise grip if you can get it on gently tap it with a light hammer until it turns.
 
All gauges are being sent to Nisonger for rebuild. That nut was already molested/stripped and it wouldnt have mattered what i tried. The gauges looked pretty terrible once i removed them, so we just decided it best to send them all off to be calibrated.
 
I cut a slot in a deep 6-point socket for r/r. You might as well make one. You'll need it to reinstall. I keep it in my box of "Healey tools".
 
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