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Smitty clutch disc
- Thread starter jcsb
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Hi John,
The BJ8 clutch is 9 1/2". I never measured the disc Pete sent me, but it was probably the same as yours. Mine works great!
Regarding the install...
I didn't have a transmission jack, so I rigged up my floor jack so all of the wheels swiveled, and made a support out of wood that matched up with the bottom of the W58.
This setup fit nicely under the car (which was up on jackstands) and gave me lots of maneuverability.
The alignment of my slave cylinder pushrod seemed too crooked, so a friend machined a 1/4 shim plate to fit between the bell housing and the slave cylinder. My bell housing had been heavily machined in this area.
Here are a couple of other issues you've probably run across if you've done any searches...
You're gonna be really happy with the results!
Greg
The BJ8 clutch is 9 1/2". I never measured the disc Pete sent me, but it was probably the same as yours. Mine works great!
Regarding the install...
I didn't have a transmission jack, so I rigged up my floor jack so all of the wheels swiveled, and made a support out of wood that matched up with the bottom of the W58.
This setup fit nicely under the car (which was up on jackstands) and gave me lots of maneuverability.
The alignment of my slave cylinder pushrod seemed too crooked, so a friend machined a 1/4 shim plate to fit between the bell housing and the slave cylinder. My bell housing had been heavily machined in this area.
Here are a couple of other issues you've probably run across if you've done any searches...
- The bolt holes in the bell housing were a little oversized, so I cut a couple of strips of shim stock, rolled them up, and put them in the holes where the 2 two dowel bolts live. https://www.astraldimensions.com/healey/healey5speed.html has great info about dowel bolts.
- I threw a couple of washers in the bell housing on the pivot stud, only because I ran across some web postings where others had problems. I don't know if it helped, but it didn't hurt.
- I just had to remove the transmission a few weeks back because the speedometer quit working. The Toyota trans has a wire clip that attaches the drive gear to the output shaft. Assuming you'll have to open the case to install the correct shift linkage, you may want to replace this clip at the same time. https://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?39134-R-amp-R-Speedo-drive-gear-56k-Warning has some good photos of the clip. The part number is 9046725001, and it's less than $2.
You're gonna be really happy with the results!
Greg
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I have a spare Toyota disc - the diameter is 9-1/8".
Would add to the tips above:
before installing the trans itself, install the bell housing without the trans but with clutch, T/O bearing, lever, etc in place with a pilot tool through the clutch.
Operate clutch pedal and make sure clutch disengages properly - with the clutch pedal depressed you can rotate the clutch with the pilot tool. Observe that clutch operating lever at rest must be at or near the front of the bell housing opening. If the lever is in the center of the opening, make a longer ball stud from a metric bolt and shorten the slave cyl pushrod accordingly.
Would add to the tips above:
before installing the trans itself, install the bell housing without the trans but with clutch, T/O bearing, lever, etc in place with a pilot tool through the clutch.
Operate clutch pedal and make sure clutch disengages properly - with the clutch pedal depressed you can rotate the clutch with the pilot tool. Observe that clutch operating lever at rest must be at or near the front of the bell housing opening. If the lever is in the center of the opening, make a longer ball stud from a metric bolt and shorten the slave cyl pushrod accordingly.
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You have the latest and greatest Bellhousing from Pete. You'll also notice the angle has been changed where the slave mounts so it is more "in line" with the throw out arm. The standard pin for the slave clyinder is 2 1/2". I had problems disengaging the clutch and ended up putting a 1/8" thick washer under the fulcrum pin. I could have even increased it to 3/16" or 1/4" if I wanted to. The best way to start the installatin is without the trans attached to the Bellhousing so you can see if you have enough throw from the slave to disengage the clutch. A friend of mine helped me lifting the trans and he did the measurment from the edge of the Bellhousing to the Fulcrum pin and I think it was close to 5 1/8" or so.
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It's a lot easier to remove/replace the slave cylinder. The aftermarket slave bleeder line available so the slave can be bled from the engine compartment can sometimes be in the way of reaching the top bolt so another less thing you have to fight.
Thanks guys for the heads up. I have a tranny that has the shifter that is furthest back. So, I assume I have to remove the tailshaft housing and flip the connection so that I can install the shifter further forward. I haven't done this yet so is there a detent on the shaft or do you just center it?
John
John
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You'll need a new shift socket (not sure about part name)
as well as gasket and cover for the forward position. The fixing bolt is offset so cannot be reversed.My kit included a "forward position" shift linkage that replaced the "rear position" linkage that was in my transmission. You can't flip your link around, it's a completely different part. The first thing you should do is take out the bolt that secures the shift linkage to the shaft. Positioning will be obvious once you remove that bolt.
Split the transmission case behind the center divider plate, and don't worry too much about parts falling out everywhere, they won't (with 1 possible exception). There is a small black plastic ring (seal?) that goes between the divider plate and a "lube tube" that runs back through the tail case. Watch for it.
The rectangular black gasket that came in my kit was not the correct gasket for the forward shift position. I cut away everything that was interfering with the linkage, and after 2 driving seasons, haven't seen any signs of leakage.
Greg
Split the transmission case behind the center divider plate, and don't worry too much about parts falling out everywhere, they won't (with 1 possible exception). There is a small black plastic ring (seal?) that goes between the divider plate and a "lube tube" that runs back through the tail case. Watch for it.
The rectangular black gasket that came in my kit was not the correct gasket for the forward shift position. I cut away everything that was interfering with the linkage, and after 2 driving seasons, haven't seen any signs of leakage.
Greg