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Tips
Tips

Now the clutch...

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OK now I'm beside myself. Got everything bleed and when I step into the clutch the gears are mashing like the clutch isn't fully engaging. Would I need to adjust the shaft between the m/s and the clutch pedal? HELP!!!
 
Don't have it off hand, but there is a clearance spec for the pushrods and pedal bits.
 
Should be a smidge of clearance between the clutch push rod and the master piston. Maybe a 32nd.


Kurt.
 
I keep on getting bubbles. I have used 3 pt size bottles, been using a glass jar to collect what comes out, and I'm about had it.
 
All the clutch side of the master is is a piston with a couple of little holes leading into the reservois to let fluid in. You must be doing something simple wrong. That's all I can come up with, Chris. Do you have a clutch? If you have a clutch you don't have to get all the bubbles out....they tend to work out over time.
BTW the elbow in the tube above the master does tend to no let all the air out.

Kurt.
 
MY66AH said:
Ok, here's the old and new slave. Can I just swap the bleeder location or should I leave it as is?
Click to expand...

Ok here's an idea, I swapped the location of the bleeder on the new slave to look like the original. Could this be causing my issues? Going to swap them around and see what happens.
 
Has anyone mentioned the trick of forcing the slave piston back into the bore before bleeding. This reduces the volume of fluid in the bore and the space for air to be trapped. Use a tie wrap or piece of wire around the pushrod and casting to pull the pushrod in.

I did this with success when I did my clutch. Luckily I did it before the engine/trans went in so there was plenty of space to get at things. The engine is now in and I don't think I have any air, but it takes a strong left leg to move things. Nothing is running yet. I'm still hanging stuff on the engine.

I've had a devil of time bleeding the rear brakes (bugeye). I think because the bleeders are not at the top. Having the clutch bleeder on the side would seem to be a problem to me.

Jim
 
About the adjustment: Take the spring off the clutch side on the master. Shorten the adjuster on the pushrod until you can feel slack and you can move it back and forth slightly. Someone said 1/32" play, which sounds OK. Make sure when you do this that the piston in the master bore is all the way forward. Tighten the lock nut and reinstall the spring. Disclaimer: I'm no expert and am learning as I go.

Jim
 
These clutches are notoriously difficult to bleed, as you are discovering. Keep the bleeder at the high point; i.e., like your old slave cylinder. You might have to loosen it and tilt the thing so the bleeder is really at the highest point. (Yeah, I know it's a pain!) Also, push the piston as far back as you can, as Jim suggested. Finally, bleed it the old fashioned way, with someone pushing the pedal and you operating the bleed screw; don't use a vacuum bleeder or anything cute like that.
 
MY66AH said:
It's been me and my wife, daughter and father to pump the pedal.
Click to expand...

Are you closing the bleeder after each down stroke? If not, you are wasting your time because unlike the brake side, the clutch has no residual valve. As already stated, you must have the bleeder in the uppermost hole (the one that points up). Most reproduction ones are shipped with the bleeder installed in the port for the hardline, and people just assume that is correct.
 
Well after switch the lines around the clutch side of my new master cylinder is bad. Rebuilding it tomorrow.
 
Curious Chris....what turned out to be the problem???


Kurt.
 
Woohoo! :banana: :banana:
 
This is going to seem stupid but back in the 80's my dad put an adapter on the clutch line so it would seal on the m/c. Well over the past 2 decades it has been removed seversl times. Well it was just worn out and not sealing properly allowing air to get sucked back into the clutch system. So I just replaced the whole line and went for a nice shake down this afternoon. Tomorrow is Iowa's largest car show and the Austin is waxed up and ready to show.
 
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