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Stalling issues

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pkmh

pkmh

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1967 BJ8 - I just posted earlier how my distributor rotor tends to go bad (notch shearing away at underneath). After replacing with a new one I already had, I thought I was good to go. Not...For I was driving down a hill when the car just quit on me (no noticeable hesitation or bucking issues, if that means anything). But luckily, I got her started up right away and was able to drive her back to my garage. Now yesterday, I conducted two tests, unaware of my rotor issue at that time. First, I tested to see if the fuel pump was working by removing the line at the carbs. Turned the ignition on and no restriction of fuel nor problems with the pumping action. Second, I tested for spark by removing one plug and grounding it to the engine block while cranking. Spark was evident. My one question at this point is: Is it possible for an ignition coil and or condenser to partially fail or is it more like once it quits, it remains that way? Because I do have everything needed to do a complete tune up, including those small wires in the dizzy, I'd figure I would just replace everything to be safe, including a new fuel pump if necessary. My problem could also be related to the carbs themselves, maybe?! Just was wondering how to trouble shoot the cause better rather than just replace everything and possibly not learning the cause. Of course, I would rather have it that way than break down on the road again. Any thoughts? Thanks, Paul
 
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Usually a coil gets hot and quits and resumes when cool. I have had coil wires (small ignition wires) get loose while running and terminals spread enough to stop. Replaced terminals wires and everything worked, Internal distributor central electrode if on spring sometimes does not hold enough tension to keep spark. You only need 3-4lbs. fuel pressure. Sudden cut off with no backfire? As front backfire would be lea n out on fuel stoppage. Does this happen only on a hill? Possibly tank tilts for air break or if hot enough for vapor lock. But then it starts right away. Can you put one of those clear filters near carbs and see if it is dry when this happens. Do not use hose you have there for looks, make a makeshift hose and filter. I do not think it is your wiring as it restarts too quickly. Need to know about a backfire but no hesitation or bucking seems like a fuel out situation. Condenser can get hot, but points are not burning out on you and it restarts. Whatever you do only do one thing at a time. If you replace something and it does reappear, put it back until you find what is replaced and cures it. Otherwise you will never know what it was. Check ignition switch too. Usually when you have an electrical blip you will have a backfire.
 
So far, I can only say there is no backfiring, front or rear. Will keep on investigating. Thanks for the info.
 
Talk about luck! I found out the cause of my stalling, purely by accident. When I ponder all the possibilities of what could be the problem, I will start doing a little detailing in the engine compartment as a way of starting the trouble shooting process. And starting with the ignition coil, I was attempting to clean up the wiring's color coding and connections when I realized a flimsy feeling at one of the female connectors to the coil. Using the remote starter switch and pressing against the negative lead to the coil, the car started right up. Gently tugging the lead away from the coil but still very much connected, the car stalled out. Lucky because the break in the wire is completely concealed due to the rubberized coating around the connector. I will try to post a picture of the little culprit soon. Thanks Larry for your input as well.
 
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There's the little bugger that (hopefully) is the cause of my problems...
 

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Glad you found the problem; intermittant electrical ones are the worst! But reflecting on the rotor tang breaking makes me wonder about the overall condition of your distributor. Next time you have the cap off, feel how much free play is on the shaft; side to side movement could represent worn bushes, and up & down ("telscoping" if you will) could be as simple as the screw under the rotor being loose.

Distributors, on the whole, are often overlooked for wear because they're still functional, but it is intended to be a precision instrument and will benefit from periodic maintenance.
 
check the distributer cap for cracks! when cold will work fine when it heats up it seperates and causes problems.
 
Thanks. Cap and distributor cam nice and snug. I always keep an eye on the distributor and now and then oil as where indicated, though maybe more can be offered on maintenance. Any further suggestions?? But for now, no play. Same with my previous Healey I had (crushed by Sandy). I hear this is a common problem. Looked at my replacement today. Holding up very nice. How long, who knows. Drove her for a little bit today. That little swine/bugger of a connector fixed. Should be no more issues there either, ya think?!
 
Randy Forbes said:
Glad you found the problem; intermittant electrical ones are the worst! But reflecting on the rotor tang breaking makes me wonder about the overall condition of your distributor. Next time you have the cap off, feel how much free play is on the shaft; side to side movement could represent worn bushes, and up & down ("telscoping" if you will) could be as simple as the screw under the rotor being loose.

Distributors, on the whole, are often overlooked for wear because they're still functional, but it is intended to be a precision instrument and will benefit from periodic maintenance.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your advice on testing the distributor. I always felt everything was good and snug with the distributor as I mentioned but I decided to be as exact as follows, based on your suggestions for testing side to side and up and down on the cam. The amount of play side to side, "feels" like between 1/64th to about 1/32" max. Moving the cam up and down slightly more, maybe between 1/32" to 1/16". I never experienced any backfiring front or rear, missing or any other issue I am aware of. I also inspected the bottom of the cap. No wear, dust, chips. Everything is clean. Do I still have to be concerned? I will try using a scale to determine more exact measurements, hopefully within the next day or two. Thanks again.
 
PKMH

Having just read your thread title and your symptoms, I was going to suggest that you check that wire. There have been numerous posts regarding stalling of the engine and 9 times out of ten it is that low tension connection between coil and dizzy. It happened to me and like you I cottoned on to the limp wire but very quickly, I carry a spare now when I'm out with the club just in case someone ends up in trouble.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Interesting fix. My 62 3000 would run great then stall for no good reason. I finally got out, pulled dist. cover, moved wires around, then it started so I could get it back to shop. On closer examination, I found the movable plate on the auto advance, which moves based on vacuum, had rubbed through the insulation of the ground wire, causing an intermittent short. At same time I replaced ground wire, I noticed contacts inside of dist. (DM6A) were pitted. When attempted to order a new one, I was informed I should only replace with one with the Lucas named molded into top. Anything else after-market were poorly made. Will have to go to England to get the Lucas original. They're avail at AHead4Healey in England but pricey due to pound/$ conversion. Does anyone else have an opinion on this? Also all local Healey guys use Lucas bumblebee competition wiring. Is that necessary? I think they just look cool.
 
lgrusco said:
Interesting fix. My 62 3000 would run great then stall for no good reason. I finally got out, pulled dist. cover, moved wires around, then it started so I could get it back to shop. On closer examination, I found the movable plate on the auto advance, which moves based on vacuum, had rubbed through the insulation of the ground wire, causing an intermittent short. At same time I replaced ground wire, I noticed contacts inside of dist. (DM6A) were pitted. When attempted to order a new one, I was informed I should only replace with one with the Lucas named molded into top. Anything else after-market were poorly made. Will have to go to England to get the Lucas original. They're avail at AHead4Healey in England but pricey due to pound/$ conversion. Does anyone else have an opinion on this? Also all local Healey guys use Lucas bumblebee competition wiring. Is that necessary? I think they just look cool.
Click to expand...
Contact Jeff at https://advanceddistributors.com/ He is the best distributor guy around...a real straight shooter.
BTW, I had the exact same wire rub as you this summer. Jeff sent me a new wire which he double insulated for me. He also told me it happened because I unintentionally over-tightened the nut while attaching the white/black wire, causing the inside wire to twist and rub.
lesson learned.
rich
 
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