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Problem with the throttle linkages due hing external temperature

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Good news
I have finished the Cable conversion MOD.
Following the-Greg. W- project photos IMGP2157a.jpgIMGP2159a.jpgwith litte variations, on tema
I haven't changed the normal throttle bracket, no issues
Rich, I have find the system for the infamous Air Filter boltsIMGP2160.jpgIMGP2161.jpg in less than 20 seconds for filter with a elastic bracket
IMGP2162.jpg
The cable bracket is fastened to the two air filters and also sent in position by the carbs
All works well, NO problems, during a long road test
Cheers
 
Andrea,
If the air filters are attached to your bracket, where does the bracket attach to make a tight fit to the carbs? Got one for a tri-carb?
rich
 
Hi Andrea,
Just for the record, the path you chose was someone else's work, not mine. My solution probably wouldn't work directly for SU carbs since I have installed Mikunis. (The ones in my sig.) The length of the pedal lever is matched for the Mikunis, but the overdrive switch would still be the same.
This setup is mine.
 
Andrea,
I think you got your photos from my web site. Years ago, I had actually been in touch with Greg because I was intrigued with his bracketing for a throttle cable and he sent me the photo he has reposted. I did a lot of research at the time. The photo that you used for your inspiration was from Jack Brashear in Arkansas. We were in touch at the time. There are many variations to this. Cape International, DMD and Dennis Welch all make kits. All a little different. I was intrigued by the Australian racing Healeys that visited the U.S. several years back. Almost all of them had throttle cables, but of course their approaches were somewhat different due to RH drive. You may want to think about some type of pedal-stop mechanism to avoid stressing the cable or its connections.
Lin
 
Hi Lin
Yes this photos is from your Old album on Cable brackets argument.
Yes I want also a pedal stop regulation. the golden little bracket is added for it, but I have prefered to drive my car, and the pedal regulation project go in delayed time, have you some suggestion??
(also the experiment for new sidescreen solution, was delayed in winter)
Cheers
Andrea
 
richberman said:
Andrea,
If the air filters are attached to your bracket, where does the bracket attach to make a tight fit to the carbs? Got one for a tri-carb?
rich
Click to expand...
Hi Rich
the steel extrusion have the same measurement of the distance from the Air Filter-to the Carb, a miracles in rubbish pieces,
so it stay stopped perfectly.
Cheers
 
Andrea, I took some pictures yesterday while I was swapping in some DWR pedals; a little more detail of the accelerator pedal.

I actually used the original Healey pedal & pivot hardware, just cutting off the end, and of course, mounting it to the floor.

In retrospect, I suppose I should've pulled up the carpet...

IMG_7084.jpg



I'm hoping that the DWR brake pedal doesn't prove to be too wide (though I typically wear pretty narrow shoes when driving the Healey) so I don't "catch" more than one (>1) pedal at a time! If so, I'll revert back to the narrower Healey pedals (as below) and offer the new one up for sale (they have a splendid thermal dispersant coating on them__only because I was already doing some S-54 engine parts with it, and it's intensely black).

IMG_7100.jpg
 
Tanks Randy
As usual your photo are very good and helpful,
actually I am satisfied by my SU Cable conversion,IMGP2159a.jpgIMGP2163.jpg very easy to make and efficient,
but when I turn to the Webers I can value seriously your solution.
I continue my road trip tests odometer now sign the first 400 Ml all OK- some electrical mess and bolts loss but no other serious problem.
IMGP2151.jpg I am investigate a little quantity of engine oil sprayed on LH underside of hood. I Have eliminated the little air filter (you can see on the photo)on oil gas pipe, with a rubber pipe, directly to rear carb Air filter- and siliconed the TWO tags on the head cover-BUT spray is not eliminated. it happens when the engine run at more than 3500 - 4000 rpm- I suspect the NEW oil filling TOP, and will return to my oldest- Anyone have some suggestions?
 
andrea said:
Tanks Randy
As usual your photo are very good and helpful,
actually I am satisfied by my SU Cable conversion,View attachment 28808View attachment 28809 very easy to make and efficient,
but when I turn to the Webers I can value seriously your solution.
I continue my road trip tests odometer now sign the first 400 Ml all OK- some electrical mess and bolts loss but no other serious problem.
View attachment 28810 I am investigate a little quantity of engine oil sprayed on LH underside of hood. I Have eliminated the little air filter (you can see on the photo)on oil gas pipe, with a rubber pipe, directly to rear carb Air filter- and siliconed the TWO tags on the head cover-BUT spray is not eliminated. it happens when the engine run at more than 3500 - 4000 rpm- I suspect the NEW oil filling TOP, and will return to my oldest- Anyone have some suggestions?
Click to expand...

Andrea,
Can you see where it is coming from if you rev the engine to 3500 rpm with the bonnet open?
rich
 
Any chance that the SU dashpots were overfilled, and the piston(s) rising causing it to squirt oil out the vent hole?

I've actually done that on purpose, just to show off how far the oil can squirt! With the hood removed, it could hit a car parked two (2) spaces to its right...
 
richberman said:
Andrea,
Can you see where it is coming from if you rev the engine to 3500 rpm with the bonnet open?
rich
Click to expand...
Rich
Right suggestion-I have tried this option- but for few minutes- never spray happened -
probably oil must be warmed and the phenomen happen when hood is close and air is pressed inside?
However, I am not so happy to hearing the engine run at high rpm without loads.
Cheers
 
Randy Forbes said:
Any chance that the SU dashpots were overfilled, and the piston(s) rising causing it to squirt oil out the vent hole?

I've actually done that on purpose, just to show off how far the oil can squirt! With the hood removed, it could hit a car parked two (2) spaces to its right...
Click to expand...
Randy
We can make one- AH Championship of Oil Squirt- (also my SU is sure overfilled)
But my oil spray is Light Black colored - it is from engine, confirmed by the lowered level on the oil stick, and go to RH side of the hood
TOP oil filler- is new and in excellent conditions - now I have exchanged with the oldest, in very bad conditions- tommorow I make a test, if whether permitting, now is dark and stormy raining
 
:smile:Tested- the car for a short run- I am right the oldest TOP oil filler DON'T spray the engine oil on the hood.

I will continue with a more long road test. before confirm that a NEW top oil filler don't make the basic duty
 Anyone have experienced a similar issue ??
I suppose that the NEW TOP oil can be repaired - any suggestion
Cheers
follow photos and measurements of the new top oil filler
 
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