TR2/3/3A Rear Axle Bearing[s] repair vs. replacement

[DornTRoriginal]

Onto the next phase, the rear end of the car!

I am replacing the bushings on the rear spring(s) and wondering if I should replace the rear wheel bearings and seals too since I have everything disassembled? The bearings seem fine, roll nicely no noticeable play but I am not at all sure about the seals, there is nothing leaking right now as she sits. I have the bearings and seals on hand.... I took the axel out on one side and everything looks great. The car has been sitting for a very long time, 25 years or so, the grease is still "greasy". There's about 90,000 miles on the car. Should I go ahead and replace the rear wheel bearings and seals now since I have easy access to everything with the body off the frame or do it later on when really needed? If I am going to remove it now, how do I instruct the machine shop to remove the hub from the axle, is it pulled off and then pressed on? My machine shop guy has never seen this type before but he is thinking he can get it done? Is there anything I should be aware of?

Number 2 is almost the same thing for the "U" joints on the drive shaft? Everything looks fine but with easy access do I just replace everything now? Thanks everyone!

 

[tinman58]

Just di this to my TR3. The machine shop had never done a TR3 axel either. He figured it out. Lot's of heat and a big press. It took him some time to complete the job, but I am happy. Yes I would do it now with the body off. It is a good piece of mind.
I am in Brentwood so if you have any question or comments give me a call.
415-515-3122
tinman58@comcast.net

 

[TR3driver]

I'd leave the bearings and outer seals alone, unless there is an obvious problem. The outer seals don't do much (mostly keep brake dust out of the grease) and the bearings seem to last nearly forever if they are kept greased.

The problem is that the "lots of heat and a big press" approach may distort the hub (ruining it) and/or alter the temper in the axle. Breaking an axle can definitely ruin your whole day! The worst part is that the broken axle won't happen until years later, when you've forgotten all about heating it to change the bearings.

If you do want to change them, I suggest building (or having someone build) one of the purpose-made pullers that support the flange (to reduce distortion) and work (usually) without heat. Here is one that should work quite well
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2H...OTY1LTljNzEtZDMyNjM5OWFkZTQ4/edit?usp=sharing
or there are plans for a replica of the factory puller at the end of this article:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2H...Y2IzLTg1YWUtZTY0MWFmMWRlMzI3/edit?usp=sharing

Tony had his shop class build some of these a few years back, but they sold almost instantly and now no one will even admit to having one

But definitely change the inner seals. They are easy to get to, and much more important as they are what keeps the gear oil out of the brakes.

 

[CJD]

Definitely don't want to use enough heat to affect the temper, which would require getting it hot enough to glow red. It should not take nearly that much, though. If you load it on a decent press, all you have to do is touch a torch to the hub for a second or two and the taper will pop...or explode may be a better description.

If I had all the parts in hand, it would always bother me knowing I didn't use them when I had the chance. That's just me, though. Theyre really not that hard to change in place on the car if they act up later.

 

[PeterK]

50-ton press on mine, then they applied heat and waited. After about 30 minutes, the big "explosion" and resultant change of undies ;-) and they were off. Building/borrowing a Churchill hub remover would be the best approach although the press worked for me this time.

 

[TR3driver]

I machined some press plates to fit snugly behind the hub (including relief for the protruding ends of the wheel studs). Loaded them up to about 15 tons in the press and then rapped smartly several times on the side of the shaft. 3 or 4 blows and all of them (6 so far) have popped apart with relatively little fuss. I leave the flat washer and a regular nut on the end, to keep the shaft from falling out completely (and to help avoid mushrooming or collapsing the end of the shaft). Also a block of aluminum between the shaft & press ram.

 

[DornTRoriginal]

I have often wondered if there was a way to "share" tools, especially the one's you don't need very often but are really essential when you are completing a specific repair. I have purchased a few that now will sit for a long time, I love to lend then to someone who may need them but I know some times the tool is abused and that would be unfortunate to have happen. The articles were great and very informative, thank you! I loved the line " the Churchhill tool is more rare than hens teeth..." and "now you will be able to gently pull off the hub assemly with a wet kleenex...." Tony has a great "style"! Now all I need to decide what I will do? I get myself into such quandries these days it amazes me. I really appreciate your help everyone!

 

[TR3driver]

Another option I forgot to mention : Pack up the half shafts and ship them to someone with the knowledge and tools to separate them. Herman van den Akker used to do this service (you'll have to ask if he still does) and I believe John Esposito does. Probably so does TRF. No doubt there are others.

Tool "sharing" has been tried. IMO the only way it works is if each borrower leaves a deposit big enough to make the person who made the tool happy to make another one. Unfortunately, that can lead to a lot of acrimony when it breaks. Was it the tools' fault, or the user? What's a fair price for making a new one?

 

[Geo Hahn]

I would second the 'first do no harm' approach and let it be.

I really don't think it is more difficult to R&R the axles on an assembled car -- everything is right there at the hub. Whether you open them up or not note that you will want to measure and shim-adjust the end float upon reassembly.

...Tony had his shop class build some of these a few years back, but they sold almost instantly and now no one will even admit to having one .

I have one, possibly from that lot --

-- but I have given up loaning tools after having to make multiple trips to track down and recover (or worse buy a replacement) when projects stalled and the borrower lost interest in returning the item.

 

[CJD]

Nice pic, Geo. Seeing one up close, though, I have trouble visualizing that thread pitch having enough leverage to pop a tapered axle. Do you spin it with an impact driver?

 

[DornTRoriginal]

Well it is was a sad moment earlier today, the first hub (left side) came off quite easy, a BIG pop! but the second one failed badly..... a big errrrrrrrrrrrr pop! The pop was enough to make me cringe!!

Now I am in the market for a new hub. Darn it! Seals were shot so it was the right thing to do? Did not have the best tool for the job. If you know anyone with a spare hub and possibly a new axle, please let me know! Thanks!