• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A Sudden total loss of power

So now the question is - do I replace the generator or should I use the opportunity to upgrade to an alternator? If the latter, how easy is the upgrade for a novice like me?
I'd go for it, unless you're worried about lack of originality. The electrical conversion is pretty easy (especially since your 4A will already be negative ground), and the mechanical portion isn't too hard. If you don't feel comfortable cutting spacers from pipe and whatnot, there are several vendors that offer ready-made kits.

Is it plausible that the power issue I've been experiencing is simply bad/dirty connections at the solenoid or control box and that my tinkering just caused the generator that was about to fail to finally fail?
Seems plausible to me. Or the generator may just be coincidence.

But either way, I think you are on the right track. Fix the problem that you know for sure (generator), and if the other problem continues to act up then work on that.
 
Thanks - I have ordered the Moss alternator conversion kit. Hopefully it will arrive before the long weekend so that I can have the time to install and get back on the road :smile:
 
I just recently put the moss alternator kit in my TR4.. It took about 1.5 hours, and I had to convert to negative ground first. Everything fits well, and the directions are clear. (It did take me a few minutes to relate what was on their wiring diagram with what was under my hood.) Also, you will need to solder two connectors onto the wires that connect to the back of the alternator. I used my wifes stained glass soldering iron, it worked fine. They could be crimped on I suppose, but it is a high vibration area, thats why they call for soldering I assume..
 
That's encouraging. I figured it would be the better part of a full day. If I can get it done in 1.5 hours (or even 2-3 hours) I will be very satisfied!
Unfortunately I've been told it has to ship from Moss' California warehouse and will take over a week to get to Toronto. So no fixing or driving over the long weekend :sorrow:
While I'm at it I plan to upgrade my headlights to halogens as well. Those have been sitting on a shelf awaiting installation since December so maybe I will make use of the long weekend and get that part started :encouragement:
 
That's encouraging. I figured it would be the better part of a full day. If I can get it done in 1.5 hours (or even 2-3 hours) I will be very satisfied!

Well!!! The part arrived on Friday and I started the install on Saturday morning. Just as i expected, it is a way more time-consuming project than expected. It should be simple but I have run into all sorts of problems. Firstly, the bolt holding the generator adjusting arm broke off and I spent about 2.5 hours trying to drill it out with a dremel from a very awkward angle. Removing the radiator would have made the angle easier but I didn't want to start with that.

Then, once I got the bolt out, I discovered that Moss had not supplied nuts to match the bolts that came with the alternator and the generator bolts and nuts are not compatible with the alternator mounting ears. After wasting another 2 hours, I have finally got the alternator mounted in position and lined up with the 3/4" belt.

Next problem - that I hope someone can give me advice on is how to get the belt back onto the alternator pulley. The instructions say to mount the alternator with the belt in place but that was totally impossible. Now I can't see how it's possible to get the belt back onto the pulley.
 
Next problem - that I hope someone can give me advice on is how to get the belt back onto the alternator pulley. The instructions say to mount the alternator with the belt in place but that was totally impossible. Now I can't see how it's possible to get the belt back onto the pulley.

If you can get the belt partly onto the pulley, you can "roll" it on. Get it started, and turn the engine (wrench on the crank) to turn.
 
The instructions say to mount the alternator with the belt in place but that was totally impossible. Now I can't see how it's possible to get the belt back onto the pulley.
That's how I used to do mine (although I didn't use the Moss kit). Why is it impossible? On a 4A you should have enough room to work under the alternator with it held up against the side of the engine.

Do you have the mount that looks like this?
untitled.JPG
 
...While I'm at it I plan to upgrade my headlights to halogens as well. Those have been sitting on a shelf awaiting installation since December so maybe I will make use of the long weekend and get that part started

Does the 4A have relays for the headlamps? If not, you may find adding a couple of relays helpful for better brightness and longer switch life.
 
Do you have the mount that looks like this?
View attachment 28025
Yes, that's exactly how I have it mounted - but with the belt on and the bottom two mounts attached (but not tightened) I could not get the top adjustable arm attached - it just wouldn't twist into position. I am also nervous about damaging the belt.

I will try rolling it on - but again don't want to tear or rip the teeth on the belt.

BTW - I have relays for the headlights (but haven't got them installed yet).

Wish me luck!
 
Yes, that's exactly how I have it mounted - but with the belt on and the bottom two mounts attached (but not tightened) I could not get the top adjustable arm attached - it just wouldn't twist into position.
That sounds more like the belt is too short. I had to use a longer belt for my conversion, because the alternator body would not let the pulley be as close to the block as with the generator. With the alternator hanging against the belt and the lower mounts, you should be able to just slide the upper arm into place and put the bolts through it.
 
OK, so I managed to roll on the belt - but the only way I could do it was to detach the lower two bolts so that I could twist the alternator a bit toward the water pump pulley. Now that the belt is on I can't get the bolts to line up again. It almost feels like the belt tension is too tight - but It was fine with the original generator set up.

Am I missing something obvious here?
 
alternator pulley diameter?
 
The Moss kit said to re-use the pulley from the generator if using the original 3/4" belt. That's what I did.

Interesting. If you're using the original belt, seems it should be slightly stretched and *looser*. Not as tight as new.

And the water pump pulley is stock?

Tom
 
If you're using the original belt, seems it should be slightly stretched and *looser*. Not as tight as new.

And the water pump pulley is stock?

Tom

The belt is original spec - It looked relatively new when I purchased the car 3 years ago. As far as I know, the water pump pulley is stock as well.
 
The belt is original spec - It looked relatively new when I purchased the car 3 years ago. As far as I know, the water pump pulley is stock as well.

Thanks. Just to make sure I'm following, the belt is *new* and never used? or the belt was on the car 3 years ago?

Edit: I've found that belts from different manufacturers can have slightly different lengths, even with the same "spec". If everything else is correct, why not get another belt or two, same size, but different makers. Might work.

Tom
 
Just to make sure I'm following, the belt is *new* and never used? or the belt was on the car 3 years ago?

The belt I'm using is the one that was on the car 3 years ago.

Do you honestly think that an equivalent spec belt from another manufacturer would be that different that I will be able to maneuver the alternator into alignment and reconnect the bottom bolts? Right now it is seems so far off.
 
Just trying to help. If all the parts are correctly in place, and the pulleys are the same, the belt is the only thing which could be sensitive to slight differences.

Someone else will have more suggestions.

Tom
 
So if I want to try a slightly longer belt, how do I get the old belt off? I can't slip it between the fan extension and steering rack?
 
Back
Top