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Surface Rust Removal

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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When the Restoration Process on Bugsy II was begun 28 years ago, the PO began stripping portions of the hood to bare metal. The process was interrupted and even though the car was stored indoors, 28 years of unprotected steel develops surface rust. Looking for some tips/best practices to get started. My plan includes Frank C.'s favorite tool, a 60 grit flapper disk attached to an angle grinder, done outside of course as my wife reminded me about lead paint hazards. Now that will take care of all of the flat surfaces but how about around the grille and headlight buckets. I've got one area of crinkled and pulled straight metal alongside the PS headlight bucket right in the curve. Flapper won't work in there. Suggestions on chemicals to neutralize and cleanup the rust. I know Brillo Pads will keep metal shiny and keep the rust away for a while until things can get primed.

I will need to complete welding around the top of the bonnet by the grille as new metail was added there and tack welded in place. Not rusty there as it was properly primered with aircraft preservation primer. Need to do finish welding. That's one area I want to keep dry, not add anything that would run underneath when I need to finish weld. Perhaps I need to think about flapper disk that area, finish weld first before tackling the rest of the bonnet with any chemicals or water cleanup. Thoughts on that.

Will also need to cleanup slots between fenders and bonnet and install fender beading as it has been removed. A really rusty, crappy area to deal with. Suggestions on techniques for prepping this area prior to installing new beading would be appreciated.

The journey has started.
 
Hey I've got some Muratic in the garage, I know that will take it off. Also NASTY STUFF. Sure does wonders through cleaning the bottom of the boat. Steel does immediately rust afterward if not coated / rubbed with Brillo Pad or coated with Phosphorous.

I do not want to dip the bonnet.
 
Another thought, John Kuzman. Got any info on the place in Cincinnati doing Ice Pellet Blasting? Any info on $ involved with blasting with frozen CO2.
 
I may be wrong, but I do not think dry-ice blasting removes rust.
 
bug_sixty said:
phosphoric acid??
Click to expand...

YES, if: you (Jim) are going to use Rustoleum or similar non-catalyzed enamel.

NO, if: you are going to use, etching primer OR epoxy primer.

The big point here is you have to know EXACTLY what you're going to paint the car with BEFORE you start playing with chemicals. Make the final paint decision first, then you'll know what to use and how many steps you do or don't have to do and there won't be any surprises or wasted effort. My .02.
 
Steve,

Thanks for that info. Bugsy II may be Rustoleum or something similiar like Interlux Brightsides( more colors available). Both can be rolled on. Spraying not an option at home with wife's allergies and asthma. Hence something that can be rolled. Bugsy looked pretty good from 5 feet without ever doing final buffing and polishing. Yes I want Bugsy II to look as good as Ray Evan's and Whitephrog or Leo's Iris but time and budget are not available.

With Budget and wanting to install 5 speed and an engine rebuild needed and wheels and tires to purchase no funds will be available from SWMBO for other than a DIY Paint Job. I'll be curious to see John K's response on ice blasting. Need to do some research.
 
I did inquire on the subject of Dry Ice Blasting. Company in Cincinnati provides Process on a Trailer, Minimum $1,500 - yeah right or you can bring to them for $250 Trail for 1 hour plus $250 for materials. In their Video they show a full sized Chevy being blasted in an hour. Ought to be able to do several Spridgets in that time.
 
Great link on using Naval Jelly. Think the trick will be flapper followed by Naval Jelly
 
JIm,

Don't even think of using muriatic acid on the car. It will clean the metal quickly, but you'll have a hard time keeping it from coming back and rusting worse afterwards. Naval Jelly is just a gelatinous (and expensive) form of phosphoric acid. It's fine for vertical surfaces or areas that are really heavily encrusted that need a long soaking. You'll be surprised how quickly a regular solution will take care of the surface rust. You can leave the converted iron oxide (rust) ->ferric phosphate as a protective coating until you are ready to paint. Parts that are small enough to fit in a reasonable size container (nut's bolts, small parts) can sit submerged is a water diluted bath for a few hours to a day or two. You can use the flapper or any other abrasive procedure, to get the heaviest off, but the phosphoric acid will work on it's own while you do something else.

Check my Tech page for other rust removal techniques.
 
Gerard said:
JIm,

Don't even think of using muriatic acid on the car. It will clean the metal quickly, but you'll have a hard time keeping it from coming back and rusting worse afterwards. Naval Jelly is just an gelatinous (and expensive) form of phosphoric acid. It's fine for vertical surfaces or areas that are really heavily encrusted that need a long soaking. You'll be surprised how quickly a regular solution will take car of the surface rust. You can leave the converted iron oxide (rust) ->ferric phosphate as a protective coating until you are ready to paint. Parts that are small enough to fit in a reasonable size container (nut's bolts, small parts) can sit submerged is a water diluted bath for a few hours to a day or two. You can use the flappy or any other abrasive procedure, to get the heaviest off, but the phosphoric acid will work on it's own while you do something else.

Check my Tech page for other rust removal techniques.
Click to expand...

Jim,

I used "Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch". Available at lowes and HD. Use it diluted 5:1 for metal prep or stronger for rust removal. I tried Muriatic acid once because I had it (for the pool). Cleaned metal will start rusting while you watch it.
 
David_Doan said:
Jim,

I used "Klean-Strip Phosphoric Prep and Etch". Available at lowes and HD. Use it diluted 5:1 for metal prep or stronger for rust removal. I tried Muriatic acid once because I had it (for the pool). Cleaned metal will start rusting while you watch it.
Click to expand...

Same stuff I use.
 
Thanks guys,

If I had a big enough pool, I'd start with electrolytic rust removal but since I don't...Had good results on some of the parts I used that on. Muratic Acid will be saved soley for cleaning up bottom on the SeaRay when it comes out of storage in a few weeks. A little rough on the fiberglass but at least the bottom is clean for the first few weeks of the year.

I did buy a couple of bottles of Naval Jelly at Lowes last night. Didn't see the Phospho X but they had something similiar, twice the size of Navel Jelly for the same price.

Hey any thoughts on getting the rust out of seams. Beading was cut off on the front and I've got this really ugly center piece of the beeding that is rusty and nasty. Tips I've looked at include using a thin blade on a rotary tool to workinto the groove and cut out the remains of the Center of the Bead. That alone will help to clean up the bead but I see a whole lot of investment in Dremel Cutting Blades to remove the remainder of the Bead. That and need for hand, face and eye protection as I break rotary cutting blade after cutting blade. Some of those gaps are the width of the bead and thats it. On the trunk area, beading was removed and gaps brazed shut. That's done and I will not go back to cut back open, it looks good and will be left that way. So I think I can get the old beading out. Will be labor intensive and a little dangerous to life and limb but not impossibe. But how to treat rust between the seams so it can be controlled and doesn't pop up shortly after painting. Thanks.
 
kellysguy said:
Evapo rust works great for me.
Click to expand...

I'm sold on Evaporust too -- it works really well and it's nontoxic---but it requires soaking, and I think it would be really expensive to get enough to soak the bonnet.
 
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