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BJ8 Brake Drum Removal

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RDKeysor

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Surprisingly, neither of my Healey manuals explains how the rear brake drums are removed on a Series 1 car. The nuts on the studs on my car are partially covered by the circular plate that incorporates the wheel spindle. These nuts look like they might be two-part pieces, but in any case a socket that fits on the narrow nut flats slides off when pressure is exerted. My goal is to inspect the brake pads.
 
The nuts are a type of locking nut. The correct socket will fit--IIRC, it's an 11/16" but I'm not sure. Apply the e-brake to keep the drums from turning.
 
RDKeysor said:
Surprisingly, neither of my Healey manuals explains how the rear brake drums are removed on a Series 1 car. The nuts on the studs on my car are partially covered by the circular plate that incorporates the wheel spindle. These nuts look like they might be two-part pieces, but in any case a socket that fits on the narrow nut flats slides off when pressure is exerted. My goal is to inspect the brake pads.
Click to expand...

I used one of those cross-style lug wrenches available at Harbor Freight. This allows you to press your body weight against the nut while turning. Also they are 6-point which grips better. Kroil or PBblaster would help, too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-inch-four-way-lug-wrench-94110.html


 
Bob_Spidell said:
The nuts are a type of locking nut. The correct socket will fit--IIRC, it's an 11/16" but I'm not sure. Apply the e-brake to keep the drums from turning.
Click to expand...


The nuts are indeed 11/16" but I had to buy a deep socket to allow the ratchet enough bite to remove the nuts.
 
I think the 'official' value is 70lb-ft. I've been torquing mine to 100lb-ft--same as most modern lug nuts with same size studs--for years with no problems. Anything between 70 and 100 should be fine. The difference between 70 and 100 is about a 10deg turn of the wrench.
 
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