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I have to run power about 150 yards away from where the meter is. All I need is maybe 10 amps of 110v. I realize if I try to run 110v through regular size wire that distance I'll hardly get any voltage at the end. Would it be possible to run 220v that distance and then step it down once it gets there?
 
Before I retired I was an electrical contractor. I had made myself a 250ft extension cord out of a full coil of 12gauge cord. When wiring houses in new developments I would run it to one of the houses with power then work off it all day long. We ran saws, drills, fans and in winter a large kerosene heater. Never had a problem. You need to be sure that you plug it into a good source. Preferably right at the panel with a 20amp circuit and GFCI protection.
if you are talking about a permanent installation use at least 12 gauge and if you are still concerned go with 10 gauge.
 
I agree Billy
You don't need to step up the voltage.Just the amperage of the wire
Google what you want to do
There is a chart
 
I plan on grabbing it right at the box and the full 450 feet will be a permanent instalation. All I plan on running is some flourecent lights, a 7 amp max "heating" device and maybe a fan.

This is what the online calculator shows for 10 amps of 110v run 450 feet through 12 guage:

Votage drop: 14.29
Votage drop percentage: 11.91%
Votage at the end: 105.71

Will that be enough to do what I want?
 
Would even think of running that far thru #12

You gonna run it in a conduit or direct burial?
 
I'm a bit torn (as usual). I have an inverter out there but I can't run a pottery wheel off of it so I'd figure run wire. @ $184 a 250 roll, I figure $500 to run power that far. I also have a 5K generator that is NOISEY. I'd rather not listen to the racket, but $500 buys a lot of gas. That $500 breaks down to what the power company wants for just the meter for 16 months of no-use service. (that's if I had a meter installed for it.) I may only use $10-15 worth of KW power a month, maybe $20.

It's a shame I can't find some used wire cheap.
 
I agree except for the 7 amp "heating" device. Since you are running something that could result in a continuous load I would go with at least 10 and preferably 8 gauge. BTW this wouldn't be a still would it.
 
Crap, it's $185 for 6/2, not 6/3. 6/3-125 is $300. That'd be $1200 :eeek: No, it's a small lead "furnace" for recycling wheel weights. I may just use my generator till I see how much I use the place, however; I'd use it more often if all I had to do was open the door and flip a switch.
 
Run 220, then split off 110. You'll save on the wiring cost.

Edit: Disregard. That would only save you money if you needed additional circuits.
 
George_H said:
Build a giant muffler for the generator and point it at the neigbors house, then run an extention cord.
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The unit itself is loud. I have an old car next to it I'd put it in but I don't want it to get too hot.
 
Rhodyspit75 said:
How's that done?
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Typically with 3-way wire. Electricians like to do this because, although the wire is more expensive, the labor is less than running a second home run.
 
Boink said:
Typically with 3-way wire. Electricians like to do this because, although the wire is more expensive, the labor is less than running a second home run.
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O.K, someone needs to explain to me how to wire this.
 
kellysguy said:
O.K, someone needs to explain to me how to wire this.
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This system sounds like more then you were looking for. It would require a 2 pole breaker at the source. You would then run 3 conductors plus a ground out to your out building there you would install a breaker panel with 2 breakers. You would also need a ground rod at the outbuilding. You would end up with 2 120volt circuits. Unless you used the larger wire you would still end up with about the same voltage at the outbuilding.
 
I've temporarily run 4 wire 10 ga 200 ft to one barn pulling 220V with no problems. Even ran a welder a 42 inch fan and numerous lights off of it at the same time. Not that I had to, but I later ran 4/4 copper underground to replace it. PJ
 
Rhodyspit75 said:
This system sounds like more then you were looking for. It would require a 2 pole breaker at the source. You would then run 3 conductors plus a ground out to your out building there you would install a breaker panel with 2 breakers. You would also need a ground rod at the outbuilding. You would end up with 2 120volt circuits. Unless you used the larger wire you would still end up with about the same voltage at the outbuilding.
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Hmmmm, so what you're telling me is i'd have two 110v lines. One for the melting device and the other of everything else. Wouldn't that overload the single neutral going back?
 
No. If you do it right, the neutral would have very little current. The simple explanation is, the hot on each side acts as the neutral for the other side as long as both sides are in use. This is commonly done by electricians and meets code everywhere. You do have to be sure that the two legs are on opposite phases. Although you will get 2 circuits, the voltage drop will still be the same over that distance.
 
Ya know, it's a shame I can't hook this generator up to the Hyundai next to the joint, overdrive the crap outta it and run the engine at idle for power.....or could I.....

I've toyed with this idea before but with running A/C and heat of the thing too. Am I losing my mind? That 1.8 has to be putting out at least 10 hp at idle. It would sure be quiter than the 10 hp Briggs that's on it now.
 
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